Thread: Neat backsaw handle.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

....There seems to be a revile on saw making, happening hear on the Forum [emoji6].
The handles are looking sharp, it never dormant on me to use a pilot drill bit, that’s a mark of Genius there.....

Yeah, I reckon it would be quicker than my more clumsy method of shifting between a brad-point for the shaft hole & a Forstner for the counter-sink. It's even worse for "Glover" style bolts 'cos you need a 3rd drill for the sleeve of the barrel-nut. I guess if I started banging 'em out 6 at a time like Stewie is doing, I'd be looking for every way to speed up the tedious bits, but there ain't no revival of saw-making happening in my shed!

Paul, I switched to mostly using the sleeve-nut style on my last couple of dozen saws. I think they look fine, but not if you are wanting the "old style look". The two things I like about the 'Glover" bolts are that 1) you can finish the handle before fitting the blade, and 2) you don't need to go scrabbling around for a split-nut driver whenever you need to tighten the handle or remove it. I have to remove the handles on some saws if they need jointing because the tooth line has sunk below the bottom of the handle (you can manage without removing the handle of course, but it makes it much easier if you do). Simple slotted screws are so much easier to deal with....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Stewie,
There seems to be a revile on saw making, happening hear on the Forum [emoji6].
The handles are looking sharp, it never dormant on me to use a pilot drill bit, that’s a mark of Genius there [emoji106].

Cheers Matt.

Hi Matt; not my idea with the pilot counterbore. It may have been Klaus from Two Lawyers toolworks that filled me in on its use.

Look forward to seeing your progress on your Gents Saw. It looks like a fun project.

regards Stewie;

To complete the saw plate slot in the handle a starting kerf is formed on the router table then taken to full depth using a backsaw of matching kerf width,

When marking out the hardback mortise, a length of slotted brass back is fitted to the top and bottom edges of the saw plate to keep the saw plate in parallel alignment.

regards Stewie;

Originally Posted by planemaker

To complete the saw plate slot in the handle a starting kerf is formed on the router table then taken to full depth using a backsaw of matching kerf width,

When marking out the hardback mortise, a length of slotted brass back is fitted to the top and bottom edges of the saw plate to keep the saw plate in parallel alignment.

regards Stewie;

Stewie

That's a good idea, which I will store away. Also I have just twigged, maybe I have not paid sufficient attention, that there are open and closed handles. I think you said the open handles could be Jarrah. Was the closed handle some sort of Myrtle? I enlarged the image and the lambs tongue is nice and delicate.

Regards
Paul

Edit: A second glance and I realise the closed handle is the one you are using to cut the saw slot! I still like it .

Sorry but someone as to ask,
So you can’t make a saw unless you have a saw!!!.

This is like the Chicken or Egg question, that I will have you know at just on 50 I’m still struggling with.
I know, I ask the hard stuff sometimes.

Cheers Matt.[emoji20]

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

......That's a good idea, which I will store away...

If you do try this technique Paul, just be careful! Those slitting saws have no set & can grab awfully hard & awfully quick, resulting in a handle being flung sideways and fingers pulled towards the bare blade at the speed of light! DAMHIK, as they say. After a couple of "adventures" I decided my fingers were too useful to risk & went back to cutting the whole slot with a back saw.

Yes Matt, you need a saw to make a saw, in fact you need TWO saws - one that can go round corners to cut out the handle, and one that tracks very straight & true to make the blade slot. So how did that first saw get made, eh? Something for you ponder each night as you wait for sleep to come & soothe your poor brain....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

If you do try this technique Paul, just be careful! Those slitting saws have no set & can grab awfully hard & awfully quick, resulting in a handle being flung sideways and fingers pulled towards the bare blade at the speed of light! DAMHIK, as they say. After a couple of "adventures" I decided my fingers were too useful to risk & went back to cutting the whole slot with a back saw.




Cheers,

Ian

I was referring to the brass back aspect for the mortice. I thought I had deleted the saw slot reference in Stewie's post, but I apparently made a couple of errors. For the saw slot I use a no set saw as a "kerfing" saw to make the initial shallow kerf. This is followed by a slightly deeper slot using a saw with set before making a final cut with a "normal" saw.

While Stewie's method seems to work very well for him, and I have the same router and the same slotting saw with arbour as he, I have run out of bravery pills. I may try this in the future as it has produced such good results for Stewie, but perhaps with the drill press first similar to the way you slot the brass backs.

Regards
Paul

I usually consult woodyexpert website. They give useful info about products, compare several items of the same category and give links to the actual place where I can buy them. My last purchase was a Makita wood router. I first read the feedbacks at several woodforums and then consulted the site to have the comparison about best wood routers.

Originally Posted by PCarver

I usually consult woodyexpert website. They give useful info about products, compare several items of the same category and give links to the actual place where I can buy them. My last purchase was a Makita wood router. I first read the feedbacks at several woodforums and then consulted the site to have the comparison about best wood routers.

PCarver

The issue here was more to do with the slotting saw than the router. Any large router with a variable speed capability will suffice: The hesitation was around the tip speed of a relatively large blade. You probably are already aware that as the diameter of a cutter increases (or the blade in this instance) the router speed needs to be reduced. The lowest speed on the Triton router in question is 8,000 rpm. I am not aware of any router that will run significantly below this speed unless it was also attached to a VFD (variable frequency drive) .

Stewie is an accomplished woodworker and, in particular, maker of saws and planes. While he is aware of the potential pitfalls, I think it is true to say, this technique may not be for the novice.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

PCarver

The issue here was more to do with the slotting saw than the router. Any large router with a variable speed capability will suffice: The hesitation was around the tip speed of a relatively large blade. You probably are already aware that as the diameter of a cutter increases (or the blade in this instance) the router speed needs to be reduced. The lowest speed on the Triton router in question is 8,000 rpm. I am not aware of any router that will run significantly below this speed unless it was also attached to a VFD (variable frequency drive) .

Stewie is an accomplished woodworker and, in particular, maker of saws and planes. While he is aware of the potential pitfalls, I think it is true to say, this technique may not be for the novice.

Regards
Paul

I agree with you Paul. Also, I believe there is no such router that runs with the speed less than 8,000 rpm.