Thread: My first No4

If the studs stand clear at all of the casting then a hack saw cut or two might give you enough groove to get a straight driver in.

I've also seen a fine nail punch used as a drift to turn a stud but that'd be a long shot here.

In both cases obviously lube the thread first.

Also, you are going to need new rods if the existing ones have been snapped off (unless, of course, you are going to cannabilise the other for the rods).

Before trying to get the snapped piece out, soak the stub and hole in a penetrating lubricant (WD 40) for a day or so. If you can't hacksaw a slot in the top of the stub to put a screwdriver in, you will need to use a drift and a hammer to push the stub around in the hole - tap gently and patiently and it will move.

BTW if you are thinking that you will replace the threaded rod, remember that the thread Stanley used is most unusual and not one that you can buy (or for which a standard die will work). So you may have to find another (Try Hans Brunner or Stu Minuskin if you don't want to cannibalise the other #4!!) Alternatively you can try this tip from the UK.

Originally Posted by jmk89

BTW if you are thinking that you will replace the threaded rod, remember that the thread Stanley used is most unusual and not one that you can buy (or for which a standard die will work). So you may have to find another (Try Hans Brunner or Stu Minuskin if you don't want to cannibalise the other #4!!) Alternatively you can try this tip from the UK.

Thanks for the info, I already have replacement rods so am sorted for that. I figure that if I can't get them out and end up butchering the hole I will retap the holes to something more widely available, the plane is nothing special so I am not particularly worried about keeping it original.

I have heard that heating threads and then touching some candle wax onto them draws the wax into the thread and makes for easier removal than WD40 or similar - anyone got any experience with this? I also have some some lanox, would that be a better option?

Originally Posted by Burnsy

Thanks for the info, I already have replacement rods so am sorted for that. I figure that if I can't get them out and end up butchering the hole I will retap the holes to something more widely available, the plane is nothing special so I am not particularly worried about keeping it original.

I have heard that heating threads and then touching some candle wax onto them draws the wax into the thread and makes for easier removal than WD40 or similar - anyone got any experience with this? I also have some some lanox, would that be a better option?

Stanley still make all the parts for their planes ,I bought a Bailey screws and nuts replacement kit just recently .It cost $25.00 but you get every screw and washer needed for two planes ,one lot of screws in metric threads and the other in imperial threads.
Included is one new brass adjusting nut, and the brass nuts for the tote and knob rods .Four new rods are include as well.

I thought it was a bit expensive at $25.00 ,but when I saw what was in the kit I think it's good value ,certainly saves drilling and re threading which makes the plane less desireable if you want to sell it at a later date.I am going to order a couple of more kits later so I have a few of each on hand.
The kit part number is 1-12-702 Bailey screws/nuts.

All you have to determine is whether your plane has metric or imperial threads.It seems Stanley bastardised both types of threads.

I wish they had a similar kit for their mitre boxes , I'm looking for some screws and a top support bar for one I am restoring .


Cheers
Kev.