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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    It looks like the brass adjuster needs some filing back to allow the mouth to fully close. (area highlighted in red)

    I would think the round edge where screwdriver is pointing needs 1-2 mm off to let it get closer to the cast edge.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Col View Post
    I would think the round edge where screwdriver is pointing needs 1-2 mm off to let it get closer to the cast edge.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
    No it isnt the brass at all. I took mine apart and there is a bit of rough cast where screwdriver is pointing in the oval hole. I will file it round so the mouth plate can close further.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
    Good better best, never let it rest, until your good is better and your better best.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Col View Post
    No it isnt the brass at all. I took mine apart and there is a bit of rough cast where screwdriver is pointing in the oval hole. I will file it round so the mouth plate can close further.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
    Filed and the mouth can adjust less than 1 mm now if you need to less of course with blade protruding. Problem solved.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
    Good better best, never let it rest, until your good is better and your better best.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Col View Post
    Filed and the mouth can adjust less than 1 mm now if you need to less of course with blade protruding. Problem solved.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
    I was too hasty. By filing the oval hole the mouth closes more BUT.... There had to be a but. The brass adjuster slot still does not allow the adjuater to move far enough to close the mouth so a rework would be needed or going back to my earlier suggestion, you could if needed, remove adjuster and use a washer when such a close mouth adjustment is ever needed. Not ideal but it works. Maybe David can see all this and devise a solution for you.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
    Good better best, never let it rest, until your good is better and your better best.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Col View Post
    I was too hasty. By filing the oval hole the mouth closes more BUT.... There had to be a but. The brass adjuster slot still does not allow the adjuater to move far enough to close the mouth so a rework would be needed or going back to my earlier suggestion, you could if needed, remove adjuster and use a washer when such a close mouth adjustment is ever needed. Not ideal but it works. Maybe David can see all this and devise a solution for you.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
    After putting it all together and adjusting blade out and closing mouth to minimum with brass adjuster in place, I have less than 1mm opening which for me is good enough not to fiddle any more. Plane gives whisper thin shavings. Happy days.....

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  7. #21
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    For those who panic when they do not have the smallest of mouths, the fact is that they do little to prevent tearout. One either uses a BU with a 25 degree blade to shoot end grain. Well, end grain does not require a closed up mouth. Or one uses a high cutting angle, say 62 degrees (= 50 degree bevel on a 12 degree bed). High cutting angles (over 55 degrees) are unaffected by the size of the mouth.

    Generally, the mouth has a very small effect, in the grand scheme of control measures, compared to high cutting angles and double irons with closed up chipbreakers. It is more akin to folklore, and the myth perpetuates.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #22
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    Wow great advice Col and planemaker! Thanks so much.

    I'll file the rough casting and also file out the slot in the brass adjuster. I'll also pass on the advice to David. Seems that perhaps the best solution for HE would be to check the casting and make a slightly smaller brass adjuster with a wider slot in it. I'll see what David has to say and send him the link to this thread. Maybe it's an easy fix for him to update the brass adjuster for his other planes?

    Thanks again, such great advice! Josh.

  9. #23
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    Thanks Derek. I'm still learning so it's easy to believe all you read. I was basing my view on the original 62 an LN which seem to both get a tight mouth do assumed it was necessary too.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jw2373 View Post
    Wow great advice Col and planemaker! Thanks so much.

    I'll file the rough casting and also file out the slot in the brass adjuster. I'll also pass on the advice to David. Seems that perhaps the best solution for HE would be to check the casting and make a slightly smaller brass adjuster with a wider slot in it. I'll see what David has to say and send him the link to this thread. Maybe it's an easy fix for him to update the brass adjuster for his other planes?

    Thanks again, such great advice! Josh.
    To be honest. It does not need any adjustment at all out of the box. I just went through the motions to see if it could be done. I like to get rid of sharp edges on planes. Lie Nielsen and all. Stops scratching me and marring the surface.

    Sent from my HTC_0PKX2 using Tapatalk
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  11. #25
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    Such a great collection Col, beautiful. I've got a few LN blocks and love them but have to say at this stage my favourite tools are a set of Harold and Saxon chisels with desert rosewood handles.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jw2373 View Post
    Thanks Derek. I'm still learning so it's easy to believe all you read. I was basing my view on the original 62 an LN which seem to both get a tight mouth do assumed it was necessary too.
    jw; you might find the following video by Terry Gordon on low angle bu bench planes of interest; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v9X9Cgtl7c

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by jw2373 View Post
    Thanks Derek. I'm still learning so it's easy to believe all you read. I was basing my view on the original 62 an LN which seem to both get a tight mouth do assumed it was necessary too.
    I would want to be able to close up the mouth as well - not because it improves performance, but because it makes setting the projection of the blade easier (to see and feel with finger tips).

    The BU or LA Jack is a super plane. I have both the original Stanley #62, from which the LN was derived, and the Veritas LA Jack. I like the Stanley for its lightness in use as a small jointer, and I like the Veritas as a shooter. As much as I use specialist planes for both these tasks, which should relegate the LA Jack to the shelf, I find that the Veritas gets grabbed and used when I need to complete several tasks, and feeling a little lazy to set something up - then this is the plane to do it.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #28
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    Thanks very much planemaker. Will take a look tonight.

  15. #29
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    Just for reference I have a Veritas LA jack plane and it can be closed to zero opening if desired, It has a brass screw to prevent the mouth being closed against the cutting edge of the blade and doing damage. I would suggest that everything is not OK with your plane. I would suggest you remove the front knob and brass adjuster and see if the front part of the sole can be moved manually to the full closed position. That would at least exclude a machining issue with the toe plate itself.
    Regards
    Jeff

  16. #30
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    Thanks Jeff, appreciate the reference.

    Col - I spoke to David and he was really helpful. He said that he's had the issue before. He's going to send me a slightly modified brass adjuster that will hopefully fix it. I'll let you know how I get on.

    Cheers.

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