Thread: Plans and methods for DIY Stanley totes?

Roy Griggs - Woodworker

It's not the best one I've seen, but I can't find any other.

Drilling the hole is the hard part. I think the one I was looking for showed the handle blank being clamped against a fence and supported by a wedge or jig of some sort on the drill press table, then drilled halfway from each end.

Being a turner I would probably do the drilling on the lathe.

Good luck.

There are plans somewhere on the Lee Valley website for standard Stanley totes, but I can't remember where. However I downloaded them to my computer. If you want me to send them to you, PM me with your e-mail address.

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks Stuffy.

Yeah, drilling the hole at the correct angle to the tote bottom will be a challenge. Best on a drill press rather than the lathe I'd say.

Thanks Vann, PM sent.

This guy drills the hole before cutting the handle shape out. Looks like you could adjust the handel shape to suit if you were a little wayward.

Mitchell on Drilling Totes

I've just finished my first attempt at replacing a stanly handle on my 5#. I borrowed a complete handle from another 5# and traced it onto some walnut I had lying around and cut near the line on the bandsaw, then sanded to the line using a bobbin sander and stationary disk sander. I then put the bobbin sander table to 45 degrees and chamfered the edges as best I could. from there it was rasp and sand paper (some wrapped around a finger and some around some dowel) untill the shape was right.

At this point I realised I probably should have drilled first. What I eventually came up with was a jig to hold the handle at 90 degrees to the drill press table. Then I got the old handle, found a drill bit that fit snugly into the hole and put it (bit with handle attached) into the drill press. I put the jig up to the side of the handle and clamped them together, loosened the chuck, lowered the table, marked the angle of the flat handle bottom and glued and tacked a peice of hardwood (the same thickness as the handle) beneath the pencil line.

All I had to do then was reverse the procedure (with the old handle in the jig) to the point where the drill bit was back in the drill. Then I clamped the jig to the table, swapped the old handle for the new one and drilled the hole to the limit of the bit (needed to juggle with the table a bit as the drill wouldn't wind down the full length of the bit). It didn't drill right through so I took the jig (with handle attached) off the drill and finished with a brace and bit.

I'm really pleased with the result, worked a treat. I must say though, I was really nervous during the drilling, it was a perfect opportunity to muck up all that work... so! drill first

cheers
Don

Thanks guys; lots of food for thought.

Originally Posted by Vann

There are plans somewhere on the Lee Valley website for standard Stanley totes, but I can't remember where. However I downloaded them to my computer. If you want me to send them to you, PM me with your e-mail address.

Cheers, Vann.

Hi Vann
I think this is the link you're looking for Lee Valley Tools - Handle Templates
accessed from this page Variable Round-Over Router Bit - Lee Valley Tools

Well found Ian.

You'd expect them to be in the Articles section. I might send them a suggestion.

And thanks again to Vann for emailing them.

Be careful when using the Lee Valley Drawings as they are not exact scale. I increased the size to 106% to get it right.
Have also made a drilling jig to hold the blank exact, also a blank holder and template for routing with the Lee Valley Tote Cutter. I start with 24mm thick blank.
As well as the Blackwood Totes that I put on the Planes I sell, I also do some in NG Rosewood to sell as Tote and Knob sets - only 4 1/2 - 8 at this stage, don't have a template for the #3 or #4 yet. They are either finished with varnish (not polyurethane) or unfinished for anyone who wants to finish and possibly stain. I'll have some at the Tool Sale in Sydney this Sunday or have a look at my Website.

Take care and Stay Sharp,
Jim

Thanks for the warning Jim.

I have big hands and plan to go 'fat' on a few replacement totes anyway. And to turn some squat knobs.

That's a very fair price you're asking for a set.

A drilling jig sounds like a good idea. Somewhere on the web is a pic of someone who clamped the tote piece between two small boards to set the correct drilling angle.

Hi Ern - as the others say, drilling the hole for the stud is the trickiest bit - damn drills do like to wander! My technique is to carefully draw the line of the stud hole on the outside of the blank, then clamp it in the drill-press vise, pull down a long drill bit & carefully align the mark against it, then move the blank under the drill & centre it. Drill the hole for the nut (if you have the right sized Forstner, they're perfect for this job), then switch to the drill for the stud & fire away without changing centres.

It also helps me to go at it from both bottom & top, with an undersize drill at first, then drill the final hole from the top, with the correct size, which will partly correct any slight meanderings of the drill bit. That's not so easy with the type that has a hole in the bottom of the tote that fits over a boss on the sole. You have to muck about quite a bit to get the hole fto start in just the right spot in the boss hole. If I have enough wood for a few spares, I usually try to get the hole right from the top only. If it's slightly off, a bit of judicious enlarging of the bottom end of the hole often suffices to get the stud to take. If not, that one becomes fire-starting material, & you move on to the next blank.

I messed up a couple of pieces of very precious wood on my first few tries, so would advise a couple of practice goes on suitable scrap before laying into the Rosewood....

Cheers,

Thanks Ian. Makes good sense.

There's no shortage of blackwood fire starters, and a fire that's about to need them.

Originally Posted by IanW

Hi Ern - as the others say, drilling the hole for the stud is the trickiest bit - damn drills do like to wander! My technique is to carefully draw the line of the stud hole on the outside of the blank, then clamp it in the drill-press vise, pull down a long drill bit & carefully align the mark against it, then move the blank under the drill & centre it. Drill the hole for the nut (if you have the right sized Forstner, they're perfect for this job), then switch to the drill for the stud & fire away without changing centres.

It also helps me to go at it from both bottom & top, with an undersize drill at first, then drill the final hole from the top, with the correct size, which will partly correct any slight meanderings of the drill bit. That's not so easy with the type that has a hole in the bottom of the tote that fits over a boss on the sole. You have to muck about quite a bit to get the hole fto start in just the right spot in the boss hole. If I have enough wood for a few spares, I usually try to get the hole right from the top only. If it's slightly off, a bit of judicious enlarging of the bottom end of the hole often suffices to get the stud to take. If not, that one becomes fire-starting material, & you move on to the next blank.

That's exactly the procedure I followed with my Cherry replacement handles. That, and cutting the ends of the blank perpendicular to the hole centreline and then cutting the handle shape out after boring the hole.

RayG mentioned a parrot bit was better for drilling long holes in the post below:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/m...0/#post1097382

I haven't tried it but I'm getting ready to make new handles for my planes and was thinking of giving it a go. I figure it can't hurt to try a different approach. More details on how the bits are shaped is found at:

http://www.bagpipeworld.co.uk/MakingBagpipes/Drill.htm