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Thread: Making my own moulding planes
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11th July 2020, 11:37 AM #31Intermediate Member
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G'day mate,
Took a while to find the steel, it fell down behind something else! What I have is 1084 high-carbon steel, pretty forgiving stuff (which is nice because I'm not the best with it!). It's 38x3mm, not sure if that's big enough for you or not. I have about 900mm of it, you can have half if it's useful to you. I looked up the prices online and it's only $25/lm so don't worry about trading. You can just have some, on the condition that you post pictures of anything you make with it!
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11th July 2020 11:37 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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12th July 2020, 11:25 PM #32GOLD MEMBER
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Thank you very much!! I was playing in the workshop again today. I had 2 #10 hollows so turned the worst one (big chip in front of the mouth) into corresponding round. Re shaping the iron was a lesson in trusting my eye. No other way to do it but freehand. And it turned out fine and cuts nicely. Next is a #4 hollow and I found a blade that might work but looks like something better has come along . Do you want to PM contact details?
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12th July 2020, 11:46 PM #33GOLD MEMBER
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make yourself a purpose made tool for this. A long knife looking thing that comes to a rounded point, and harden it - the point should be at the bottom of the rounding on the profile, and it should be hardened to about chisel hardness with slight rounding near the tip so that the tip doesn't break off. It's just a poor man's version of a carbide scribe, but one that lays parallel to the sole and marks an iron inserted through the plane right in line with the sole.
marking knife.png
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13th July 2020, 07:30 PM #34GOLD MEMBER
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Hi DW. Great idea. I have an old Marples striking knife and I like the way it works but the awl end means a very skinny handle. The japanese style kiridashi comes to mind......
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14th July 2020, 01:31 AM #35GOLD MEMBER
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pretty much what it looks like. There may be something more ideal in terms of shape, but this works reasonably well and is easy to make. more or less start with something that looks like a kiridashi blank, file the edge that goes against the plane sole into a radius, and then shape the bottom of the radius into a point. my first attempt was very sloppy, but I've never had a reason to remake it - it works reasonably well, marks blade, and if it's not that durable at the point, you can reshape it reasonably easily with a coarse stone until it's blunt enough of an angle to hold up better.
you can file or grind off the profile square on an unhardened blade to this line, and then file or grind the bevel and you'll have very close to a finished iron once you reharden. One that can be adjusted just with very light grinding or stoning.
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19th July 2020, 03:33 PM #36
Some good Moulding Plane stuff in here.
Mazzaglia Tools
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19th July 2020, 10:48 PM #37GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Rob. One day I hope to make planes worth stamping Latest effort, converting #10 hollow to a #10 round. Went well but height a bit less now. Probably closer to a #9 too but don't tell anyone. Cuts well and that's the point.
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19th July 2020, 11:15 PM #38
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19th July 2020, 11:20 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
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Hi WP. I know it's late but I don't get the emojis. As Pauline Hanson so eloquently said.....("Please explain" - I realised that you might not get what I meant now )
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20th July 2020, 01:11 AM #40
It was the bad dad-pun.... I couldn't find the emoji for --> kids-collectively-groan "daaaaaaaaddddd..."
I found a discussion on planes cutting don't use a point - but an edge ....
Sometimes Im a bit esoteric and my humour weird
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20th July 2020, 08:12 AM #41GOLD MEMBER
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Hi WP. I love it. Becoming a dad legitamized a whole lot of my "humour". Thanks for pointing me in the right direction and not being too cutting in your response. Edgy huh?
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20th July 2020, 10:36 AM #42
heimlaga
Thanks for mentioning files as a source of high carbon steel. They are indeed a good resource. However I always feel obliged to mention when the subject is raised that they should not be used for anything that is subject to stress and not captured within the body of the tool. The teeth in the files have created stress lines that can fracture under extreme provocation even after the teeth themselves have been mechanically removed. Turning tools and chisels are the immediate woodworking tools that come to mind. The possibility is there that they will break and cause injury. For plane blades there should not be a problem.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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22nd July 2020, 06:50 AM #43
MA
Kiridashi? A bit like this:
P1060244 (Medium).JPG
Styled on the Japanese kiridashi but really a lot thicker: Probably twice as thick at 6mm.
P1060246 (Medium).JPG
This one is for a left hander.
P1060248 (Medium).JPG
It was actually made as a grafting knife for SWMBO.
P1060249.jpg
To my knowledge it has yet to be used for it's intended purpose.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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22nd July 2020, 08:11 AM #44GOLD MEMBER
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WOW! I'm not necessarily a knife guy but that looks beautiful. What is the wood? Rosewood? Zebrano? I was not thinking somethingas nice as that. More all metal but....
DW, reading your post a little more closely won't I wreck my knife (when I make it) using it to scribe the profile onto blades?
Big thanks also to James for the steel blank. Your generosity is amazing.
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22nd July 2020, 08:20 AM #45GOLD MEMBER
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you want the point to be somewhat robust, it just needs to be sharp, but it doesn't need to be extremely acute. Use marking fluid on the iron to be scratched, and do it with an iron (preferably) that's unhardened and you should be good.
The marking point should be something like light straw temper - too hard and it will break off, too soft and it'll bend over and not make a mark that's deep enough to see well.
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