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  1. #121
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Vermont, VIC
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    238

    Default

    G'day Helmut,

    Cyro treatment and simple handle design are cool with me.

    Cheers

    GUNN

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  3. #122
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    295

    Wink Cryo

    Put me down for cryo thanks

  4. #123
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    near Mackay
    Age
    59
    Posts
    4,635

    Default

    I'm OK with the cryo, if you decide to go with it TS.

  5. #124
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    57
    Posts
    434

    Default

    Helmut, I have no real preferences one way or the other re the cryo treatment but will go with the flow, if the majority comes in for the treatment, I will be happy with that, Ray

  6. #125
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    64

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
    I'm OK with the cryo, if you decide to go with it TS.
    Same here

  7. #126
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    64
    Posts
    848

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
    I'm OK with the cryo, if you decide to go with it TS.
    ditto

  8. #127
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Age
    47
    Posts
    816

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    Quote Originally Posted by Afro Boy View Post
    Hi there,

    Just found this thread. Could you put me down for an Option 5 if I'm not too late? I'm easy on the species of timber.

    Thanks,
    Af.
    So ... any chance of jumping in on this order?
    ___________________________________________________________
    "The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me."

  9. #128
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    48
    Posts
    1,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ray153 View Post
    Helmut, I have no real preferences one way or the other re the cryo treatment but will go with the flow, if the majority comes in for the treatment, I will be happy with that, Ray
    Me too.
    "There is no dark side of the moon really. Matter of fact it's all dark."

  10. #129
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hervey Bay
    Posts
    559

    Default

    If cryo is only $2 per chisel it seems like a no brainer.

  11. #130
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Hi - I have been fighting a bad flu and have been in bed for the last three days.

    Its $2 per Kilogram, so it would be like less then a $1 for a whole set of eight. It seems like people are happy to go with the cryo.

    Quote Originally Posted by switt775 View Post
    If cryo is only $2 per chisel it seems like a no brainer.
    The handle design. Is a no show. It will cost us $6 to turn a handle by hand or $5.4 by copy lathe. The turner says that they would need to turn the handles by hand anyway to give the rounded ends. It works out all the same in the end.

    The other problem is that no one s willing to drill the hole for the tang to go into. It looks like members will have to drill their own holes.

    The bigger problem getting wood. I am having real trouble sourcing timber for the handles. If anyone knows of a source, let us know.

  12. #131
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    57
    Posts
    434

    Default

    I can have a chat with a retail outlet that I spend a considerable percentage of my disposable income at, sells turning blanks and other timbers, if you can give me an idea of how much wood is required and preferred specie, I can approach him with a better idea of requirements. He has plenty of slab or flitch material in two warehouses and sells a quality product


    Ray


    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    Hi - I have been fighting a bad flu and have been in bed for the last three days.

    Its $2 per Kilogram, so it would be like less then a $1 for a whole set of eight. It seems like people are happy to go with the cryo.



    The handle design. Is a no show. It will cost us $6 to turn a handle by hand or $5.4 by copy lathe. The turner says that they would need to turn the handles by hand anyway to give the rounded ends. It works out all the same in the end.

    The other problem is that no one s willing to drill the hole for the tang to go into. It looks like members will have to drill their own holes.

    The bigger problem getting wood. I am having real trouble sourcing timber for the handles. If anyone knows of a source, let us know.

  13. #132
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Ray that would be fantastic.

    At this point we are in need of timber for 256 chisel handles, I would round that up to 300 by the time we are finished. Each of the turning blanks will need to be a minimum of 40 x 40 x 180 mm.

    This works out to about 170 x 45 x 380 mm for ruff sawn timber per set of handles.

    The timber can be almost anything. With a preference for harder and more figured. I am sure the blokes would be happy with almost anything pretty.

    The top timber choices at the moment from members are:

    • Figured Myrtle
    • Blackwood
    • Ringed Gidgee


    The only no goes are red gum, or burl, as they are to unstable.

    Ray Figured Myrtle is the one timber I am having the most trouble sourcing.

    I have a source here in Canberra who can get me stuff cheap. and he has two 1 meters logs 350 mm wide of Budgeroo with my name on it for $200. Lovely Dark colors. But cutting it up and getting it to Melbourne is the problem. I also have some Spalted Olive that I scored for $25 that could get maybe three sets from. I can also get Dark Sally Wattle (much like blackwood, just harder), again the problem is transporting it to Melbourne.



    Quote Originally Posted by Ray153 View Post
    I can have a chat with a retail outlet that I spend a considerable percentage of my disposable income at, sells turning blanks and other timbers, if you can give me an idea of how much wood is required and preferred specie, I can approach him with a better idea of requirements. He has plenty of slab or flitch material in two warehouses and sells a quality product


    Ray

    *EDIT* - I have been talking to TTIT about sourcing some of the timbers from his area. I think if we can pool together all our resources we should be able to get enough to meet our handle needs.

  14. #133
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    57
    Posts
    434

    Default

    I will post a reply after Friday and let you know how I went.

    Ray

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    Ray that would be fantastic.

    At this point we are in need of timber for 256 chisel handles, I would round that up to 300 by the time we are finished. Each of the turning blanks will need to be a minimum of 40 x 40 x 180 mm.

    This works out to about 170 x 45 x 380 mm for ruff sawn timber per set of handles.

    The timber can be almost anything. With a preference for harder and more figured. I am sure the blokes would be happy with almost anything pretty.

    The top timber choices at the moment from members are:

    • Figured Myrtle
    • Blackwood
    • Ringed Gidgee


    The only no goes are red gum, or burl, as they are to unstable.

    Ray Figured Myrtle is the one timber I am having the most trouble sourcing.

    I have a source here in Canberra who can get me stuff cheap. and he has two 1 meters logs 350 mm wide of Budgeroo with my name on it for $200. Lovely Dark colors. But cutting it up and getting it to Melbourne is the problem. I also have some Spalted Olive that I scored for $25 that could get maybe three sets from. I can also get Dark Sally Wattle (much like blackwood, just harder), again the problem is transporting it to Melbourne.






    *EDIT* - I have been talking to TTIT about sourcing some of the timbers from his area. I think if we can pool together all our resources we should be able to get enough to meet our handle needs.

  15. #134
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    749

    Default

    Hi Helmut -

    I've been away & out of touch with the Internet for 10 days.

    I'm happy with the cryo (assuming I make the jump from the wait list to the "I'm getting them" list!!)

    On the handles - I have been giving this a bit of thought. It seems to me that the design needs to be longer - at least 150mm and more like 170mm. The quality commercial paring chisels I have seen seem to have much longer handles, to provide to for both balance & better control. This would be especially the case for the 250mm chisels. Any thoughts?

  16. #135
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
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    3,567

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    Quote Originally Posted by RossM View Post
    The quality commercial paring chisels I have seen seem to have much longer handles, to provide to for both balance & better control. This would be especially the case for the 250mm chisels. Any thoughts?
    This is one of the reasons why there are four options that comes with no handles, so if you want something different you can get it. I am not going to over two handle types, as it would be to complex for me to manage. Also the two long bladed types of chisels that I have seen (Blue Spruce and Robert Sorby Long Paring Chisels) both have had handles at the 140 mm mark.

    I have a bunch of good old chisels and I have been playing with paring vertically and horizontally using both long and short bladed chisels.

    I have found that when pairing vertically I prefer a shorter chisel with a longer handle. I hold the blade and the long handle rest's against by shoulder. When pairing horizontally I prefer a longer blade chisel and shorter handle. You preferences may vary.

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