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  1. 8th November 2004, 09:34 AM #1
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    Question Paste Wax and Japanning

    I recently acquired a couple of old metal body planes which need restoration.

    One is a Stanley-Bailey #4 smoother, the other is a brand unknown #6 trying plane.

    After I strip back the sides and soles of these planes to bare metal, I've been getting the impression that paste wax is a good product to apply. So I dropped into my local Bunnies the other day (I go for the prices, I stay for the expertise), and I asked them about this mystery product, paste wax.

    Various and assorted members of staff in different departments gave me 'the Bunnings look'. Great. Guys, where do I turn to next? And is paste wax the best product to be using on these planes?

    Second question... these planes need fresh japanning. Again, I've been given 'the Bunnings look' wherever I ask about this product. Short of making my own japanning (yes, I've seen the recipes), is it available in small quantities anywhere in Sydney? Or is it just going to be a more convenient and tolerable option to paint them with a black enamel?

    Cheers,
    Green Woodchips
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  3. 8th November 2004, 11:24 AM #2
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    hmmm yes, I asked for a "gripple" at bunnies, on the advice of this board. I too got on of those looks. A grip hook did you say?

    I think "paste wax" is probably a certain brand of wax that people use that they refer to as paste wax............?
    Cheers,

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  4. 8th November 2004, 11:45 AM #3
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    Try U-Beaut Traditional Wax. Link at the bottom of the page (U-Beaut Enterprises)

    Dan
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  5. 8th November 2004, 11:49 AM #4
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    Dan's advice is sound. UBeaut Traditional Wax works real well on planes.

    I think the term "paste wax" is an Americanism, hence the blank looks at Bunnies. "Paste" in this context is used to distinguish this type of wax from the spray-on and liquid types.

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  6. 10th November 2004, 04:47 PM #5
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    Default Thanks... now about the japanning

    Hey guys.

    Thanks for all your help with the paste wax situation. That's tops.

    Now regarding the japanning question... any clues?

    Cheers,
    Green Woodchips
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  7. 10th November 2004, 07:51 PM #6
    Sturdee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Woodchips

    Now regarding the japanning question... any clues.
    Green Woodchips,

    See my post under Ozwinner's thread of Black Shellac http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...9234#post99234 on what I did to refurbish my planes.

    Whilst it may not be true japanning I am happy with the finish, however I suggest you try it out on some spare metal to see if you like the finish.


    Peter.
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  8. 11th November 2004, 08:54 AM #7
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    Default Thanks, Sturdee

    Thanks mate.

    But where do I get the asphaltum? I have tried in vain to secure it at various stores in Sydney.

    Regards,
    Green Woodchips
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  9. 11th November 2004, 07:07 PM #8
    Sturdee
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    You're welcome Green Woodchips.

    If you read Ozwinners thread you'll find that those old records are made of asphalt, asphaltum and shellac and I am happy with thathomemade mixture.

    However if you really want asphaltum you can try Neil Wallace Print Making Supplies of 44 -46 Greeves Street, Fitzroy, Vic. Phone 03 94195949. I found their address from their website a while ago but lost their URL.

    From memory they sold it by the kilo for about $ 20. and you only need a fraction of that to do a plane so I never bothered with it. They may be able to put you onto a local Sydney supplier.


    Peter.
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  10. 11th November 2004, 08:22 PM #9
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    Most of the automotive body deadeners are ashphalt or tar based
    Regards, Bob Thomas

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  11. 12th November 2004, 06:42 PM #10
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    Default Thanks

    Thanks everyone for your help. I'll see how it goes. Might end up using that kilo and japan everything in sight... saucepans, garage door, car, wife...

    Regards,
    Green Woodchips
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  12. 13th November 2004, 01:05 AM #11
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    Most hardware shops should sell tar based paint for tank and gutter repair. Caleed 'black jack' isn't it? By diluting with turps your can make various tints of dye from black to a very pale golden oak. Great for matching silky oak.
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