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Thread: pipe clamp question
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20th May 2009, 07:08 PM #1
pipe clamp question
I want to set up a collection of sash cramp (3/4 inch pipe clamp variety) I have about 14 or so resonable quality ones that retailed for about $9 each a few years ago
Questions are
What diameter pipe do I need 3/4 internal or external diameter?
Is Galvanised a good option is it less likely to leave marks on my work than steel?
What is the thread i need to get cut or ask the engineer to cut?
Whats a good variety of sizes ie what length shall I get the pipe cut too given I will calculate the desired gap between the two parts and add extra for the fitting itself
600 x 4 ? 1000 x 4 1400 x 4 1800 x 2 ?
I could get a few xtra bits threaded up for extre length and versatility ie at 400 ish and join them with joiners
Any other advice?
Andrew"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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20th May 2009 07:08 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th May 2009, 09:25 PM #2What diameter pipe do I need 3/4 internal or external diameter?
Is Galvanised a good option is it less likely to leave marks on my work than steel?
What is the thread i need to get cut or ask the engineer to cut?
Whats a good variety of sizes ie what length shall I get the pipe cut too given I will calculate the desired gap between the two parts and add extra for the fitting itself
600 x 4 ? 1000 x 4 1400 x 4 1800 x 2 ?
I could get a few xtra bits threaded up for extre length and versatility ie at 400 ish and join them with joinersThe secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources.
Albert Einstein
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20th May 2009, 09:41 PM #3
Before you do!
Maybe just get a single length of pipe and see how you like them before you go spending big money on this project.
Pipe clamps started out because back then black iron pipe was as common as dirt, and about as cheap. The last time I priced a black iron pipe it was going to be more expensive than a Bessey K-Body clamp (my gold standard).
Pipe clamps have their place, but they do bend under the strain needed for glueing, they will react with glues in the presence of tannin and leave a black iron stain on your work. They are made for black iron and most don't work well with galvanized pipe as the nominal OD is slightly smaller, and slippery.*
The only reliable pipe clamps I ever owned were Pony brand, but they were $25+ 15 years ago. I ended up giving away all of my pipe clamps and am happier for it.
*based on info correct a few years ago when I stopped paying attention. They may now work on the galvanized.
Good luck with it
Greg
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20th May 2009, 09:54 PM #4.
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Don’t touch it. It slides after a while under pressure. It will frustrate you to no end. 1800mm and under get the red pipe and over that get the black pipe as it is a heavier gauge and doesn’t bend under pressure as much.
Also pipe comes in 6.6mt lengths, so divide your pipes into that length. Remember to take into account 120mm for both ends of the clamps so your internal distance is adequate. Think minimum 1100 width table tops, 600 sideboard tops, 580 chairs, 2200 min for table frame lengths. 2400min for bread board table top lengths. Also good idea to have a few pipes threaded both ends so you can use a threaded coupler to join pipes when you need to clamp extra long lengths
And with your marks from the clamps, when joining panels, tear strips of left over sandpaper, paper side down and place under the glue line, it stops the staining and wont stick to the wood. If your clamping rails to legs, tear up old random orbital disks, fury side down, and place between the pipe and timber, it stops the wood being bruised
I love pipe clamps. All mine are Pony`s and have never let me down
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20th May 2009, 10:39 PM #5
I have 6 pipe cramps and use them frequently. They are galvanised water pipe 900, 1200 and 1500mm long. They all have threads both ends and I sometimes join them (after removing the end shoe), with a standard pipe joiner. I prefer gal pipe because it doesn't cause stains, or hasn't so far. I do use pads of 12mm ply under the shoes to prevent damage. Bending is not too big a problem with good joinery. Cramping should only be needed to close the joints until the glue sets.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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21st May 2009, 08:00 AM #6
I also use gal. water pipe on mine without any slippage problems ( except the one with the toothed cam on the slider, it always slips).
About half mine are Pony's, the rest are cheaper ones from "Super cheap auto" they have the same type of spring clutch as the Pony's and hold well.
To stop the pipe touching the glue lines, I cut up short pieces of 1" black poly water pipe, and cut a slit in each length so it can be put over the pipe in a few places.
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21st May 2009, 08:35 PM #7
Thanks for the replies so far guys very helpful. Here's a couple more questions.
So if the internal diameter is 3/4 inch or 20mm what size is the Outer?
How thick does it need to be interms of wall thickness to handle the thread?"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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21st May 2009, 11:30 PM #8
I use ordinary water pipe with out any problems. The poly pipe slip overs is a good idae.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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22nd May 2009, 07:52 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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23rd May 2009, 02:40 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Nominal 3/4 inch bore pipe is usually about 1 inch in diameter. The 'usually' and 'about' is because there is considerable variation in the true outside diameter depending on where your vendor buys his pipe from, then you need to make an allowance for the plating if any. You may want to enquire with 'Jorgenson' in the US, who make 'Pony' clamps, what they consider the correct standard - in the US I believe it varies by 30 to 40 thou., which can made some clamps slip.
The variation is one reason why plumbers use teflon tape - if the pipe is very undersized it screws in easy but leaks, so the tape (and once it was hemp & putty) makes up the difference.
If you go to a steel tube vendor as opposed to a plumbing warehouse, you can get 'nominal 1 inch' pipe in both heavy and regular wall - get the heavy wall pipe as it roughly doubles the pressure you can apply before the pipe bends too much.
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23rd May 2009, 09:23 PM #11
So would this stuff be suitable?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-fa...-219842532.htm"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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23rd May 2009, 09:32 PM #12
No. Way too big. Outside diameter should be about 27mm to fit 3/4" pipe clamps.
Mike.
www.ColonialPlantationShutters.com.au
Use your garage or home workshop to make Plantation Shutters as a business
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24th May 2009, 04:33 PM #13
One more thing, I use packing tape between any panel clamp and the job. Isolates glue squeeze out avoiding stains or sticking. I've got those panel clamps you make up using timber rather than pipe and they can get glued on to your panel it has also damaged the paint on my cheapie T bar clamps. Packing tape stops all that and at worst you get tape stuck to your work which is easy to scrape or sand off.
Mentioned elsewhere there are cheapie chinese pipe clamp ends at bunnings rocklea and possibly others for $10 a pair. Probably hopeless but might be of use to someone...I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?
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24th May 2009, 04:58 PM #14
In NZ, go to Steel & Tube or Fletcher Steel for your pipe. They'll sell it to you. I think it comes in 6m lengths in NZ, but it may be 6.5m. You can get it Plain End or threaded. Light, Medium or Heavy wall, galv. or plain.
I'll try to post the sizes (Wall Thickness) for the various grades (if I have time when I get home - and if I can find my Fletcher Steel catalogue).
Cheers, Vann.
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