Thread: Plane #1

Nice work. What a pity Mike about the splits in the body of the plane.

If you are convinced it is going to fail, now is the time to perfect your design so the new one is perfect - almost.

That's a good looking plane. When you've perfected the MkII you could cut this one down into something smaller?

prozac

Mike beautiful plane the timber really has some character to it. Shame about the split. Tell me about the HNT brass abutments. How do they work, and how are the secured, did you have to use glue to hold the bolt in place? What is the max depth of the sides can be, it looks like yours are recessed.

As for the choking mouth you need to decrease the angle of the front bed. This will give more room for the shaving to move up into. I tend to find that the front angle of the HNT planes are very steep and will choke a bit to much for my taste if you do not clean out the mouth.

See attached photo for what I mean.

Bloody good job mate.

*Edit*

I see you have the Lie-Nielsen float in the first photo did the float help, how did it work? Is it like a chisel or a scraper or a rasp in its action?

Lovely work Mike.
I get the feeling that the plane flood gates are about to open. Well done.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Mike beautiful plane the timber really has some character to it. Shame about the split. Tell me about the HNT brass abutments. How do they work, and how are the secured, did you have to use glue to hold the bolt in place? What is the max depth of the sides can be, it looks like yours are recessed.

Thanks TS, I have an HNT old style jack which I used to take some measurements off of (don't tell Terry) pic shows the retainer which I am guessing buts against a shoulder drilled in the side lamination the thread is 7mm and retainer 10mm I filed the slot thinking I was going to tighten against a shoulder but simply drilled a 10mm hole instead.
I would think Terry tightens then files/grinds off excess. The beauty of his system is the abutment can move to perfect alignment to wedge. I didn't worry about a shoulder or glue as this is a test run and once the wedge is set it won't move. The sides on my plane at the bed are about 14mm Terry's is more like 8mm.
Tip when you are drilling mark the position on the inner face of one side disassemble and drill then reassemble and use the first hole as a guide.

As for the choking mouth you need to decrease the angle of the front bed. This will give more room for the shaving to move up into. I tend to find that the front angle of the HNT planes are very steep and will choke a bit to much for my taste if you do not clean out the mouth.

Yep wondered about that should have recessed as per your suggestion will increase the angle.

I see you have the Lie-Nielsen float in the first photo did the float help, how did it work? Is it like a chisel or a scraper or a rasp in its action?

I weakened and got it for this bit of messing around, the 3/16 flat. I have to say it is an amazing tool I can't wait to make the other types.
It cuts as smooth as a smoother ie cuts like a plane, removes material fast and as accurately as you like it leaves a perfectly flat surface.

Cheers Mike

Just came across this a Taunton press video with David Finck called
Setting the Blade in a Wood Plane

Would be interest to all of us budding plane makers.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Just came across this a Taunton press video with David Finck called
Setting the Blade in a Wood Plane

Would be interest to all of us budding plane makers.

And to us users as well. Good find. Thanks

Also just found this one by the legend - James Krenov on Handplanes
The legendary woodworker expounds on his signature planes with James Krenov

Some handy tips in both, it is the first footage of the man I have ever seen and his passion is palpable.

Lovely work Mike. It looks 'organic' and I imagine it sits well in the hands. Before you decide to scrap it because of the split, I suggest you try the following. If the split goes right through, put a vacuum cleaner hose against the split on the bottom and put superglue into the top with the cleaner on. If the split does not go right through, drill a fine hole into the split from underneath and repeat as above.
I have done this before with success and found that clamping after 'infusing' the superglue was pointless. I was worried that the superglue would go into the crack, out the other side and into the vacuum cleaner .... so I use one from the house!
Fletty

Great work, looks terrific

Originally Posted by fletty

I was worried that the superglue would go into the crack, out the other side and into the vacuum cleaner .... so I use one from the house!

Thanks for the comments everyone, planemaking is interesting fun especially the shaping and not as difficult as I thought.

Fletty, SMBO gets nervous everytime I come in from the shed saying where's the........might give the CA a try the wood should be stable probably been dry for decades.

Hi Mike,

Top job. Looks great, anmd heavy.

Cheers
Pops

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Thanks for the comments everyone, planemaking is interesting fun especially the shaping and not as difficult as I thought.

Fletty, SMBO gets nervous everytime I come in from the shed saying where's the........might give the CA a try the wood should be stable probably been dry for decades.

Mike,
The CA only seems to work if the vacuum cleaner has drawn the glue deep into the crack. The strength comes from the glue getting into the micro cracks rather than filling the big visible ones.
Fletty

Hello Mike,

Very fine plane design, indeed

Your first one? Then how come you have one of the best shape solutions for front handle .

I have also found that for a shorter woodie smoother, kinda "lateral" shape design for the front handle is very ergonomic and comfortable for the palm. It gives support for the entire width of the palm, and does not tire up your hand.

In European horn nose smoothers the horn is very good if it is thick and tilts well to the right side of the plane (for right handed person). But sometimes it would be even better if the handle would be installed in completely lateral manner, especially with a very low profile plane.

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Unfortunately after milling I found the piece has some fatal flaws but as its the first plane I am making I kept going as I was sure there would be plenty of stuff ups anyway.

Well, I have found that injection syringe and the largest diameter needle (for example blood transfusion type) will be very good device in this situation.

It looks like the crack is around the centerline of the plane, and therefore it is not in the critical region.

Low viscosity epoxy would be the best, but I would think PVAc white glue would do the job, too. Then a bit clamping.

Your woods are awesome.

kippis,

sumu