Thread: First plane

Buying a plane is relatively simple, there are plenty on eBay. However, the problem is with fettling the plane and sharpening the blade so that it is usable to you. It is a bit of learning curve, but with time, it will be enriching for you. However, you might not be instantly productive.

Type of plane to choose: I'd suggest a Stanley Bailey #4 vintage plane with wooden totes and a fair amount left on the iron. Make sure you have all the parts, and there are no cracks on the casting.

A better solution would be put up a want to buy Ad on this forum and negotiate with the seller here to have to blade sharpened for you so you will be productive quickly, while you are learning how to sharpen the iron yourself.

As to the sticky door to your cupboard, have you taken the hinges off to see if it fits in the hole? Sometimes the hinges are the culprits, but sometimes it is just the swelling on the wood.

Ooh; now there’s a slippery slope!

Have a read of the first section of Patrick’s Blood & Gore; “Planes 1-8C”. Number 4’s are definitely the most popular as evidenced by the thousands that are sitting around every fleamarket; and I currently have about five myself. But as a general all rounder my preference is a number 5 as it is slightly longer for mild jointing. Mine is so damned handy I’ve only ever bought one...

For your specific need right now I would err towards a block plane; these are used one-handed and you can take off wafer thin shavings from your cupboard door in situ. I would recommend either a Stanley 9-1/2 or 60-1/2 (see relevant sections in P. B&G!). The 60-1/2 is still being sold now at Bunnings (now called the G12-060) but at $199 it’s hugely overpriced.

I’ve had some extraordinary luck over the last week with some rare planes and would be happy to spread a little of this around; if you do put up a “Wanted” post in the Marketplace section I’ll answer with a couple of very good users for your consideration.

As suggested, you can't go far wrong getting a #4, it's the one I would typically reach for to trim a door. If you do get a decent one, & later become seriously involved in just about any sort of woodworking, a #4 will remain part of your tool kit forever.

The usual advice is to buy once, buy right, but it's extremely difficult for someone with zero experience to tell a dud from a very good plane. You would probably do best by putting a 'wanted' ad on the Forum as justonething suggested; most of the folks here won't be wanting to rip you off, so you should get what you pay for. You won't need a finely fettled #4 to rip a few mm off a door or two, in fact I'd rip yer arms orff if you used my 'best' #4 - doors are notorious for harbouring hidden hardware - damhik!

Everyone says "get a plane & learn to sharpen it". Sharpening tools is a whole skill in itself, & a long & slippery road awaits you. For your immediate purposes, an inexpensive man-made combination stone will suffice. If the bug bites & you go on to become a hand tool tragic, you'll work your way through several types of sharpening media before you land on your 'perfect' system. If you don't use your plane again, a combination stone is still very useful for keeping the kitchen knives in good order....

Cheers,

Thanks everyone, I found an old Bailey #4 on eBay for not much money, it looked complete to my eye and I figured it would be worth its price for entertainment. The pine cupboards in this old farmhouse are painted and pretty rough (the hinges are fine, it's a bit of house movement and sloppy paintwork causing the sticking) so even if the plane is completely stuffed, I could always turn it sideways and use it like an adze.

We’re going to need some pictures once it arrives.

Originally Posted by Colin62

We’re going to need some pictures once it arrives.

Righto!

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I'm happy with it so far, I don't immediately see any missing bits or major issues that would prevent it being fettled into shape. I'm not convinced that the rear handle or the cap iron are original - they just don't feel contemporary with the rest of the plane - but everything else looks pretty authentic to me.

I just watched "The Anatomy of a Hand Plane" by Tommy Mac - he goes through his process for commissioning a new plane, and I feel like I have a fair grasp of the basics. I'll do the old pine cupboards first, then have at it in the workshop

This is a great video of how to restore and setup a Stanley number 4 by a well known hand tool woodworker.

Restoring the Bench Plane | Paul Sellers - YouTube

Lots of great tips to get you started. Best of luck with your project.

Mick.

That looks usable for sure. I suspect you’re right about the handle not being original, but that’s not going to stop it from taking shavings.

Your's is an Australian Stanley. May be its the front Tote that's not original.

Originally Posted by justonething

Your's is an Australian Stanley. May be its the front Tote that's not original.

My vote is the knob is original but the tote has been repaired, during which process the black lacquer was scraped off, The bottom part looks about right for the era to my eye, but the replaced horn is a bit too crude even by late Stanley standards. I think it's a repair - I don't recall ever seeing an original tote on any plane that was cut from laminated wood

As Colin said, it won't stop you from taking shavings, the woodwork is the easiest part to deal with, you can always make/find a more shapely replacement down the track. It may fettle up to a very good plane, but it should at least get your cupboard doors knocked into shape....

Cheers,

Now you could add a second plane to your collection .

Your trimming stuck doors but you have a plane that needs two hands and at times the door will need taking off and placed in a vice on a bench. There are methods of holding the door if its big enough , with your body, that look like pictures off the game of Twister. You know what Twister is ?

What if the under side of a stuck door needs doing and you don't want to take it off its hinges?

A block plane !

Single handed fine planing .

Rob