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  1. #91
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    May 2007
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    Default

    Here are some specs on the H&S chisel handles
    hope it helps.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. #92
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    Mar 2006
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    A big thanks to Kevjed, I asked Kevjed for some measurements from his H&S chisels. I will refine the drawings for the handle using Kevjeds numbers and details.

  4. #93
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Jimboomba. Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    A big thanks to Kevjed, I asked Kevjed for some measurements from his H&S chisels. I will refine the drawings for the handle using Kevjeds numbers and details.
    They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery...Good Luck.

    By the way there are a few things not mentioned that H & S do that makes a huge difference to the usage of the Chisels.

    Cheers
    Steve

  5. #94
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    May 2007
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    Melbourne
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    832

    Default Plane Blades and Chisels ( A progress report )

    I don't think anyone is thinking that they are getting the full monty by imitating the handle shape of Trents H&S chisels. Handles are varied according to the chisel they are on and the density of the wood used on a sample by sample basis. This helps balance the individual blade and handle combo.
    That being said...I feel that those getting the chisel sets will be pretty happy.

  6. #95
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    Having taken Kevjeds numbers, and adapted them to the socket in our design, I have therefore updated the drawing with more precise details, hopefully filling in any blanks.

    If you are due for handles have a look at the numbers, and see what you think?

    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #96
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Goondiwindi Qld
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    261

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    I would be happy at that.
    Regards, Bill.

  8. #97
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    Nov 2007
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    belgrave
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    Yay! They look better.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  9. #98
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    275

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    Helmut

    The design for the firmer handles looks good to me.

    Did you find a taker for the paring chisels? If not please pm me the details and I'll do some calculations.

    Also, some advance warning, it's likely I'll be incommunicado at the end of January into early February. So please let me know in advance if actions are required.

    Regards

    Horaldic

  10. #99
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    PM sent -

    Quote Originally Posted by Horaldic View Post
    Helmut

    The design for the firmer handles looks good to me.

    Did you find a taker for the paring chisels? If not please pm me the details and I'll do some calculations.

    Also, some advance warning, it's likely I'll be incommunicado at the end of January into early February. So please let me know in advance if actions are required.

    Regards

    Horaldic

  11. #100
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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    73
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    11,918

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    Timber from WA arrived this morning.

  12. #101
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Australia
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    765

    Default Scale

    So after a few days off due to the hot weather, I'm back at the grinder....

    I thought I would share a pic of the size of the chisels compared to others around the shop....

    from the top

    1. unhanded forums M2 ( ~170mm )
    2. James Swan (140mm)
    3. Charles Taylor (needs some work, but the first 50mm is good)
    4. footprint (110mm)
    5. Marples (70mm)
    6. Kumagoro (65mm)
    7. LN mortice (110mm)

    The mesuments are the distance the back is flat and not fouling with the handle or itself..
    I have tried a little bit of paring in oak with the chisel pictured here unhandled, it works well the M2 bevel at 25 degrees holds up well with the light pressure, I have no idea how it would be to pound on; something like 28-30 would be very tuff edge. It feels really strong and registers really well. I think the extra length makes it a little awkward in some ways when i hold it by an imaginary handle, i feel like i am a long way from the work but have a really good sense of how square the chisel is.
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  13. #102
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    Australia
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    After each operation on the surface grinders, the chisels get deburred with a stone and dried off with a clean rag or shop towel they then get put into a bath of used way oil and hung to drip off excess oil. This oil is very sticky but very light and is a perfect rust preventive and without it the fresh ground surface of the chisel rust very quickly.

    The numbers are the thickness of the tang.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #103
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
    Age
    54
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    4,524

    Default

    Is the blue colour the oil catching different lights?

  15. #104
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    11,094

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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    Is the blue colour the oil catching different lights?
    Or is it Prussian blue?

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #105
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Australia
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    765

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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    Is the blue colour the oil catching different lights?
    Nope that is a surface that needs to be finished ground and the colour is layout ink...

    As it stands all the firmer chisels have had the taper ground, mostly rough.

    ok...I'll give a little more detail as i have the time.. the all the chisels are not precisely the same thickness, they are close but not exactly the same (and they don't need to be, at the moment they are between 6.92 and 6.66mm, the few that are 6.80+ I will probably bring down to at least that) but we want the tang to be straight and parallel along its length to make it easier to fit a handle. Soooo with a 0.5 degree taper a difference in thickness of -0.1mm shows up when grinding the taper by a factor of 100 so a 0.1mm difference is about 10mm. the ticker ones reach the tang first and since i don't want to grind into the tang too much i stop there dress the wheel and then give them the light finishing passes of 0.002 mm a pass to give that nice finish, take them all off the chuck, deburr, clean and oil them. but that leaves me we some that need an extra 10-20mm of the taper to be ground. so I use the blue to mark them for that operation and it also helps to see when i reach the tang with the taper. I will pause next time im doing the taper and you can see the feather of the layout blue. kinda cool imo.
    -J

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