Thread: Which plane to buy next?

My 2 cents ...

get a #7,
a very useful size for smoothing the finished box and drawer sides flush with the dovetails


also will come in handy as a jointer down the track

I was going to suggest a no. 7 too, but also a no. 4 for smaller work. 7s are quite heavy.
So that's TWO more planes to buy!

Hello
If I was in your shoes...well I plan on making some boxes, likely quite a lot to do as I have reclaimed so much exotic timbers,
so same goal if you like.
The way I see it is the low angle jack will be good for a shooting plane as I'm guessing its sides are accurate.
The low angle block will likely be handy for lots of situations where planing crossgrain comes into play.
Personally I'd be looking for a nice old no.5 1/2 and a no.4. no question, as I keep every scrap.
Depending on the size of what you're making, sounds on the larger side, that would be the 5 1/2 first.

Should you not work anything but perfectly cleaved stock which planes easily this might not be of concern,
If it's the case of using anything which won't play nicely, and should you use the cap iron and play by it's rules,
then you will likely need differing profiles on both, as there's always some bit of timber that will be cantankerous
and you reach for the smoother with less camber *which enables the cap iron to be set closer*

It would be a waste of both time and material to change between.
I've never handled any 5 1/2's other than the pair of Bailey's I use, so weight might be a put off if going premium.
If not too much heavier then I'd spring for an unbreakable ductile iron, square sided 5 1/2, and I'd use any auld smoother
I picked up for cheap.

That's my 2c
Tom

Not sure if you need a no7 (yet) unless you are looking at making larger furniture.

I believe some people say that a plane can work as a jointer for pieces effectively up to 3 times its length then a LAJ cover this for work around 3 feet long.

A little field but how about a speciality plane? A router plane is very useful in boxes/drawers and many other projects.

Originally Posted by Fluddman

Hi all,

I Haven't posted for a while but have recently retired and able to spend much more time in the shed. I want to expand my plane collection which currently consists of a Luban Low Angle Jack Plane and a Luban Low Angle Block Plane.

Was thinking of lashing out on a Lie Neilson No 4 in Bronze but realise for the money I could buy a fine collection of Stanley planes or at least a few more Lubans (which seem to be good enough for my limited skills).

I am going through a dove tail phase and making lots of draws and boxes - hence thinking a dedicated smoother would be nice but I do want to prepare for a wider range of woodworking projects.

For some reason I am also drawn to a 4 1/2 or a 5 1/2.

So my question is - where to next.

Thanks for reading.

I would not consider a #4 1/2 or #5 1/2. Large, heavy, stodgy. If you are looking for a smoother for drawers, think light and nimble ...

Here is a LN #3 and a Veritas Small BU smoother ...



If you are into BU planes (viz LA Jack), the Small BU Smoother may suit. An alternative to this is the Medium size versions from LN and Veritas.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks everybody for the thought provoking posts.

Ian, I hadn't even considered getting a 7 - but I find it an intriguing suggestion and one I will consider.

Derek i also hadn't considered a number 3 as I thought they were for smaller hands. Seems I got this quite wrong.

I guess the contrast in suggestions is in part because (as a newbie) I can't articulate where I am going on this woodworking journey. I seem to be using tools as a teacher - using new tools to explore and develop new skills. Both a 7 or a 3 would certainly open up something new for me.

Tom suggested a 5 1/2 which was on my radar - partly because I thought size and mass were important attributes and that it would see a lot of use.

And Taz thanks for your suggestion too - I failed to disclose that I actually own both a router plane and plough plane. So good suggestions but I have them covered.

The posts have made me contemplate whether to buy a premium plane and if so which one - I don't know the answer but I guess it would be the plane that gets used the most or the one that needs the most precision. Any thoughts on this?


Thanks for the ideas so far. Really appreciate it.

Regards

Glenn

Unless you are thinking of preparing stock by hand then you don’t “need” any larger planes than your LAJ. But for your drawers and boxes consider investing in speciality planes; a combination plane, a side rebate and an edge plane.

I agree with Derek and suggest a small smoother; and would err to the Veritas small BU smoother but with extra blades. I bought a Luban LAJ a couple of years ago for use in a shooting board but also picked up the 50 degree blade for use on gnarly timbers that I just couldn’t smooth without tear-out; that extra blade has made the plane indispensable.

You can't go wrong with a #4 Iron Lie Nielsen and I'm sure you would cherish it. I think the #4 is just the right size and weight for a smoother that can be used for both smaller and larger pieces. I have mine in bronze but I think the iron is better functionally (comparing with my #5 iron body)- the bronze is stickier/has more friction over wood, is a bit heavier (which can be good and bad) and isn't as hard either I think so the sole marks amd scratches easier.

Good problem to have, enjoy the decision making.

Cheers, Dom

Derek i also hadn't considered a number 3 as I thought they were for smaller hands. Seems I got this quite wrong.

Glenn, you not altogether wrong. I have large-ish hands and the handle of a standard LN #3 would be too small. I replaced the original handle with one for a #4.

I was fortunate to find replacements in Rosewood. It required a little trimming to fit behind the frog ...



Below is the pre-modified Rosewood with a modified original Cherry handle ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

I too would suggest a #4 of your choosing. Such a versatile plane.

Thank you all. You are so generous with you time and wise advice.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Unless you are thinking of preparing stock by hand then you don’t “need” any larger planes than your LAJ. But for your drawers and boxes consider investing in speciality planes; a combination plane, a side rebate and an edge plane.

I agree with Derek and suggest a small smoother; and would err to the Veritas small BU smoother but with extra blades. I bought a Luban LAJ a couple of years ago for use in a shooting board but also picked up the 50 degree blade for use on gnarly timbers that I just couldn’t smooth without tear-out; that extra blade has made the plane indispensable.

Hi Chief - was that a special blade or did you just by a spare blade and hone it to 50 degrees? Thanks.

Originally Posted by Fluddman

Ian, I hadn't even considered getting a 7 - but I find it an intriguing suggestion and one I will consider.

Glenn,
I suggested a #7 on the basis you already have a Luban LA jack, which is 14" long -- the same length as the Lie Nielsen #62 (low angle jack).
The LN #62 itself is a "copy" of the Stanley #62, which in turn is the same length as the Stanley #5.
So in most respects you have a pretty good "jack sized" plane.
Perhaps even better than "pretty good" as the LA Jack, being a bevel up plane, can be fitted with higher angle blades to increase its versatility.


So IMO your choices are to go for a longer plane #6 -- 18" long, 4" longer than your #62 -- or #7 -- 22" long, 8" longer than your #62.
I deliberately didn't suggest a #8 (at 24" long) because IMO it would be far too long and heavy for you.

In the end I suggested the #7, but the #6 would be an equally good choice.


alternatively, you could go for a shorter plane, say a #3 -- at 9" (230mm) long -- or a #4 -- at 9-1/2" (240mm) long.

But given your low angle block plane at 165 mm (6-1/2" ?) long can be used as a "short smoother", IMO a longer plane (#6 or #7) would be my pick.



whichever plane you decide on, make sure you know how to get the blade really really sharp and read up on how to set the chip breaker really close (<~0.5 mm) to the cutting edge

Originally Posted by ian

Glenn,
I suggested a #7 on the basis you already have a Luban LA jack, which is 14" long -- the same length as the Lie Nielsen #62 (low angle jack).
The LN #62 itself is a "copy" of the Stanley #62, which in turn is the same length as the Stanley #5.
So in most respects you have a pretty good "jack sized" plane.
Perhaps even better than "pretty good" as the LA Jack, being a bevel up plane, can be fitted with higher angle blades to increase its versatility.


So IMO your choices are to go for a longer plane #6 -- 18" long, 4" longer than your #62 -- or #7 -- 22" long, 8" longer than your #62.
I deliberately didn't suggest a #8 (at 24" long) because IMO it would be far too long and heavy for you.

In the end I suggested the #7, but the #6 would be an equally good choice.


alternatively, you could go for a shorter plane, say a #3 -- at 9" (230mm) long -- or a #4 -- at 9-1/2" (240mm) long.

But given your low angle block plane at 165 mm (6-1/2" ?) long can be used as a "short smoother", IMO a longer plane (#6 or #7) would be my pick.



whichever plane you decide on, make sure you know how to get the blade really really sharp and read up on how to set the chip breaker really close (<~0.5 mm) to the cutting edge

Thanks Ian - that makes perfect sense. I'm already on the lookout for one.

Cheers