Thread: Just plane confused

Adam

There are several ways to cut dados the Neanderthal way. Some are actually quicker than using a 'lectric router.

Firstly, you can use a plough plane. There simply plane a groove in the board. They may use a built-in fence or be run against a fence in the same way as the Makita. I have several of these planes, each of different size and complexity:

(1) Rapier (or Record) #043 - this is a tiny one-handed plough plane that uses blades 1/8" - 1/4". Ideal for running a dado for a drawer. Takes seconds to set up. Point and shoot.

(2) Record #044 - this is the next size up. Has a larger grip and does basically the same job as the #043.

(3) Stanley #45 Combination plane - this can do it all but it is much heavier and more complex. It is preferred for beadings in soft wood. But is will cut dado's with the best.

(4) Stanley #46 - this uses skewed blades and is the choice when cutting across the grain. A recent purchase (still restoring it) so I cannot comment on how good it is, but it has a fantastic reputation (and is quite hard to get hold of).

The trick to using a plough plane is to begin the cut from the end (of the dado), and end the cut at the beginning (of the dado)!

Secondly, dados can be cut by simply marking the outer lines, clamping a fence, and cutting to the depth desired with a panel/backsaw, then chiseling out the waste. Clean and smooth this up with a Stanley #71 router plane.

The width of dados can be fine tuned - increased by fractions - with a Stanley #79 side rabbet plane.

Then there are a whole host of rabbet planes, the commonest being the Stanley #78.

Regards from Perth

Derek

A #78 is a handy beast if you are plane-starved like me. The blade has two positions, so it will double as a bullnose plane. Some people used to snap the end off so they could be used like a chisel plane :eek:

It's no good for dadoes though unless they are wider than the body of the plane, which is about an inch and a half.

They have a scoring knife built in, so you get a nice clean shoulder. Try and get one that has the depth and width guides intact.

Lefty, don't let Derek drag you down the plane path :eek: . Its happened to a few of us and its a terrible addiction. I mean look at how quick SilentC jumped in with his support.
Now once you smoke, sorry, use a router for a while you will find all sorts of uses for it. Of course then comes the addiction of the router bit collection .
Like has been said many times,"Woodworking as a hobby my ar*e it's a bloody disease".
Kind regards
Hooked Termite (couldn't stand the withdrawal)

Believe it or not, maybe you're right Termite. :eek:

A small 1/4inch router might be the quicker cheaper way to go for these simple jobs. Finding one of those planes in good condition will cost me a packet. There's plent of wooden contraptions around with various fences attached to them but it's difficult to know what exactly it is you're buying.

Originally Posted by Termite

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Now once you smoke, sorry, use a router for a while you will find all sorts of uses for it. Of course then comes the addiction of the router bit collection .
Hooked Termite (couldn't stand the withdrawal)

What happens if you get both? I have started the plane bit and there are a number I have my eye on. The trouble is that the router I have is damned handy and there are a great number of useful bits.

buy a router and save yourself some time. they are way easier to operate, sounds ok if you wear defenders

I've taken this thread to heart (and there is no sad emoticon ). Whats bloody wrong with ya Lefty. I've had a 3612 for twenty years and I'm as deaf as a post.

Now, OK, was the bit sharp, normal reason for bad router experience.

Plane jockeys will correct me but a plough will normally not cut dadoes in plywood or fibre boards, not in my meagre exp anyway. (that was the serious para)

Get a dadoe head cutter (and a table saw if you don't have one) or buy a router and toughen up .

A router is like any other tool, any mug can use it but experience and skill will make the whole thing work better.

I don't feel so bad now but I'm still tempted to nick out to the power tool cupboard and make sure my 3612 has not had its feeling hurt

Whats that ya say...ayy... speak up!


Cheers

There is nothing wrong with using a 'lectric router. I really enjoy working wood more intimately with hand tools. But there are some times that you turn to power tools to get things done fast, or get things done at all (vsquizz is right about non-solid timber - I would not want to handplane MDF or ply). So I own a few routers, and a router table. Even have a dado head on the tablesaw (OK, it's a cheapie and I only used it once).

It is a buzz planing a dado with a plane, but this is better left for the times you are not working hardwoods!

I would also get a small power router for freehand use, and a moderate size one to run dados and edging freehand. No guilt.

Regards from Perth

Derek

You mean I got something right:confused:

Sorry about the plane jockey thing guys

Cheers