Thread: plane to fix - advice anyone?

Hi Clinton,

Would it be possible to fit a helicoil in there?

Regards
Ray

Would it be strong enough if it was brazed and re-tapped?

Paul McGee

I've glued a bun a' la english infills into one of my users - one of the turners I think (though I've got falcon popes as well). This worked well to give me something in place of the handle, but I did find it took a little getting used to. If I could be bothered I'd reshape it. Got the idea off of someone's website who was infilling bailey plane bases.

In hindsite, you could also glue a block in and them screw or bolt a modified handle onto that.

Cheers
Dave W.

Helllo Clinton
I have a similar problem, the screw was rusted in place and I broke it off when I tried to remove it. I have given up trying to remove the stub. I am going to drill it out and turn a replacement screw on my lathe.

but first I'm to replace the main bearings in my lathe!

Gerard

Ahhhh Gerald, the old "to do step A, I need to do steps Z, Y, X.... B" conundrum. Also known as the "to build a workbench I need to ... build a workbench to build the workbench on" issue.

Ray - No, the original threads are barely visible (I assume that a helicoil needs the original, but abused, threads to mate into???)

Dave - No to the infill idea (not my cup of tea)... but as you raised the 'glue idea' do you think that some kind of epoxy bog would be suitable for filling the hole?
Maybe put the thickened epoxy bog in with the screw held in place with a little locating 'jig' and the screw waxed/greased so that 'threads' are formed????
There is a recess in the plane sole (in the area under the handle) that I could use as reinforcement to relieve the forces put on the front screw. e.g. e.g. shape a piece of timber to fit that area and attach it to the handle. ??

Paul - I do not have the heating gear and don't know anyone that does have it. I'm also a bit shy about heating old cast iron due to my skills in that area.

What about widening the base of the hole and peening in some soft metal (lead, tin or another alloy)?

Some kind of perfect epoxy bog would be ideal, but I've no experience in bogs for metal.

Originally Posted by Clinton1

I have a Falcon/Pope 4 1/2 that was abused somewhere in the past.

The front screw hole for the handle has been drilled out.

It looks like the screw for this snapped in the screw hole and was drilled out. When I got it there was some kind of goop filling the hole and holding a replacement screw in place.
The hole is now about 7 or 8mm diameter, with some of the thread just visible around @60% of the circumference.
Other than this it is in good condition and complete... importantly the rear screw hole for the handle is 100%.

Any suggestions as to a 'good enough for a user' fix for this?

Have you tried Permatex Liquid Metal Filler? I've used it on engine blocks before (threaded oil galleries and such, with perfect results).

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...tal_Filler.htm

I have the same problem except it's the nut on tote. (Oddly enough, it's with a Falcon F5. What kind of weak hardware were Pope using at the time?) Plane is still usable but the tote does tend to wiggle loose after a while.

I've thought about using a tap to rethread it but haven't gotten the guts up to do it yet. Your epoxy idea seems like a good one. I'm watching this thread closely and will be interested in how it works out. Good luck.

Originally Posted by Clinton1

"... do you think that some kind of epoxy bog would be suitable for filling the hole?
Maybe put the thickened epoxy bog in with the screw held in place with a little locating 'jig' and the screw waxed/greased so that 'threads' are formed????
There is a recess in the plane sole (in the area under the handle) that I could use as reinforcement to relieve the forces put on the front screw. e.g. e.g. shape a piece of timber to fit that area and attach it to the handle. ??
....

Some kind of perfect epoxy bog would be ideal, but I've no experience in bogs for metal.

There are a number of very good epoxy based metal fillers and repairers that could do the job. Most of the stuff I've used was Devcon or similar products. If your trying to do a correct repair you might expand the inner cavity, over fill with metal repair stuff, then grind, and drill and tap back to original specs. Lot o' work and some expensive material for a good enough user that can be picked up for $10-20 on a good weekend. I'd do it, but sometimes that's my 'thing' .

Instead, you can do much as you've already said but with a little more work. Enlarge the inner cavity so you end up with a cone shaped hole. Coat the bolt with something the epoxy won't grab onto, and epoxy it in place. If done with the right materials the bolt may? be removable (do you want it to be?).
I wouldn't be too sure of this method though. Handle becomes a lever that will eventually overwork the epoxy, and it'll give way. Perhaps. Depending on your work methods, not a lot of force is applied laterally to the front handle. Mostly it positions your hand to guide the plane. But some of us are much more neanderthalic (thats "thal" not "phall" ) so ymmv.

A slightly different method...

Clean up the plane round where the handle seats, fill the handle hole and base with epoxy, shove the bolt through, and then seat the lot firmly and correctly. Have coffee/tea/beer. Use plane. If it doesn't work, there are ways of removing the epoxy and you won't have lost too much. This is better mechanically as you have a much larger seating area to absorb the leverage, and for a straight user I think this'd do.

OR... <puts tin hat and flack jacket on...>

Drill and tap the base to accept the bolt, drill the handle recess appropriately, screw up tight (literally!), file down any protuberances, use.
Not everybody's idea of a good day in the shed perhaps, but an option... maybe... just... maybe...

Anyway, it's late, that's my .02c, and I hope it makes sense. No warranty is expressed, nor should be implied from this opinion, but I like the Falcon/Popes, and I'd be pleased if you were able to keep it going. They can't match any of the top end stuff, but a good one is as good as most.

Cheers All
Dave W.

To Blue-deviled's post,

I've used permatex for filling with good results. Haven't used it in a mechanical fixing role though.

Cheers
Dave W.

Is there any reason you couldn't just drill the hole oversize, tap it, and throw a new screw in there?

Thread it to a standard size, screw in a brass bolt, cut the bolt off flush, drill and tap to the correct original size.

"Thread it to a standard size, screw in a brass bolt, cut the bolt off flush, drill and tap to the correct original size."

Yes - that is what I would do, and have done - but the old Falcon thread is probably #12-20 and taps are rare. If you want to change to metric I have the current Stanley Studs with brass nuts available.

Take care and Stay Sharp,
Jim Davey
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