Thread: Plane Restoration: Seeking Replacement Parts Small Metal Lathe Job

Probably have more luck on the MWF

Why not make the spacer out of wood, and epoxy a thin steel washer to the outside face.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Looks like they act as a bearing more than a spacer . Brass would work as well probably . What holds them in place ? A screw or peening the ends of the Rod ?

That would not be too hard to do with a drill, hacksaw and files.

Cheers Matt.
If you want a small piece of 01 Tool steel let me know.

I'm sure you will find someone closer to home to make these for you but if you can't I can make them.

If I had a lathe I would make it out of something like gidgee but I am not currently setup with a lathe.

Yes they seems to spread the force of the cross bar over a wider surface. It is a stupid design, because they drilled the bulk of the sides out to imbed these brass insert.

It does not look like their was ever a fastener the only that seems to hold the in place is friction and I think that is why they went missing. As wood moved parts fell off.

I was thinking of using a dab of super glue to hold it in place.

Maybe making them from a hard wood would be an option.

The other concern is that the holes are no longer round their diameter is between 22 and 22.5mm - I have thought of filling the hole with say epoxy and then redrilling it round and clean.

Bob will see if someone closer can help.

The real reason I want to salvage this plane is because it has a Lignum sole. I think it was made in the 50/60's so it is no antique but it would a great user bar this problem.

Any thoughts comments.

Looks like that washer arrangement is common on some European planes Here’s a new one with the same arrangement.

Ulmia Smoothing Plane | Western wooden planes | Dictum

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

...
The other concern is that the holes are no longer round their diameter is between 22 and 22.5mm - I have thought of filling the hole with say epoxy and then redrilling it round and clean.
....

I think that it might be easier to re-drill those two holes dry using a forstner bit in a drill press.

Brass is very soft and easily worked. You can get small pieces from model shops - bricks & mortor or online.

My guess is that the reason European planes had those discs was that they acted as bearing surfaces and spread the load from the pin better.

TS, with a bit of careful setting up, you should be able to neaten the holes sufficiently with a 7/8" Forstner bit so that any tiny irregularities remaining around a 22mm washer would be very hard to see.

As far as I can figure out, all these washers do is stop the pin working out, so why they have such a large diameter is a mystery, but possibly to spread the load over the thin sidewalls of the escapement. The original discs were probably held on by swedging the ends of the pin (at least I presume that's what that hole in the end is for). When I first looked at it I thought they were threaded and the discs held by a screw, which would be another 'fix' if you had the gear to do that.

There would be very little lateral force on the pin in normal use, which begs the question, why are they AWOL - did they work loose or did someone deliberately remove the pin for some reason?? I reckon a disc of Gidgee or similar fine, hard wood, held on with superglue would probably do the job adequately (& look as good as brass). Worth a try - if it doesn't do the trick, go to plan B & use metal washers. But if your wooden washers don't hold, it's unlikely the metal will do much better, so you might have to boost the holding by having a neat fit of the washer & swedging those ends.

Cheers,

I have an Ulmia Toothing Plane with the same set up on the sides . I can see where it’s been hit with a punch to flare out the ends . Your Rod seems a little rounded at its end which I thought a little strange . I think my one is the same though . The discs are steel . They must be reamed out a touch to give them a slight taper on the inside for the rod to grab. I agree with Matt in that marking, cutting with Angle grinder and 1mm cutting disk or hacksaw , and file will get you there pretty quickly .

With a metal lathe , I think a mandrel has to be made first To be held in the chuck to hold the rough cut disc on it’s 8 mm hole. How else is a washer made in a metal lathe when it’s cut from sheet material ?
Parted off the end of a round bar is the standard way I suppose ?

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To cut washers on a metal lathe the simplest way is to use bar stock held in a chuck reduce to required diameter, bore centre hole and part off to required thickness, no need to use a mandrel.
I have done this so many times I have lost count. I could do it except it would be a long tome before I can get to it, I'm sure if you ask on the MWF there will some one close to "Earth?" that will assist.