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  1. #1
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    Default My latest "plane" - a scraper-holder

    Finally got around to doing something I’ve been “getting around to” for 30 years, at least.
    It was precipitated by helping a friend on the weekend, scraping polyurethane finish off a Hoop Pine table that is the size of a horse paddock. They are moving into a new house & the boss lady sez the table no longer suits the décor as-is, she wants the top “au natural”. I think I have convinced her that a bare pine table top would not be at all suited to folks with a taste for a good red (or two), and a thin coat of flat water-based poly would give her 90% of the look she wants with less than 10% of the risk of permanent stains.

    The Herculean task was made more Herculean by the fact the table is a series of captured panels, and the whole surface was finished with a belt sander. So apart from the small undulations left by the sander, there are small ridges here & there where the panels have shrunk a bit more than the surrounding frame since it was made. I tried using my #80 to begin with, a tool I usually find is the bees’ knees for removing old finishes, but because of the gullies & sharp ridges, it was only getting about 20% of the finish off. So it was over to the card scrapers. Old, cured poly is almost as tough as the ads claim, & my thumbs soon let me know they were not happy with the situation! We managed to get half of the top done, but by then both my friend’s & my thumbs had had enough.

    Thinking about it on the way home, I decided the day had finally come to make that simple scraper holder I've thought about makingabout a hundred times before. So this morning, I squared up a small piece of black Wattle and clamped it between bench dogs so I could flex a small piece of wood against them & trace an even curve on the top. To get an approximation of how much curve to give it, I flexed the scraper as if I was about to use it (my thumbs are still a bit tender!) and eyeballed that amount of curve onto my holder. I cut it along the curve, smoothed the saw-cuts with spokeshaves, added a bolt at each end, and rounded all the edges that are likely to contact flesh during use:
    Scraper holder.jpg

    I grabbed the nearest scrap & tried it out: Dust.jpg

    Hmm, nothing but dust. I pulled the scraper out & checked it freehand – still dust! Some woods don’t scrape well, but this bit of old northern Silky oak wouldn’t scrape at all – I can usually get a shaving or two off almost any wood, but not this piece!

    So I selected a piece of she-oak, which does scrape well, set it up again, & lo! Nice, curly shavings: success.jpg

    With a bit of fiddling, I was able to set the blade to just the right amount of exposure so that I could rest the front of the holder on the work and have the blade at the right angle to cut most efficiently. I was able to produce shavings the same as I could holding & flrexing it in my hands: with card.jpg

    It’s still going to be more tiring on the hands & thumbs than using the #80, but not having to hold the blade flexed as well as push it, does reduce the effort considerably. If I’d made the darn thing last week, we might have finished the table before the thumbs quit. It may or may not prove a raging success, but I reckon it’s worth hanging onto for the next time I need to use a card scraper on a big area. So I got rid of the wing-nuts, which didn’t add anything to comfort, and made a couple of brass thumb-nuts instead: done.jpg

    Early days in the life of this tool - I’ll report back someday if it proves to be a genuine thumb-saver or not….

    Cheers,
    IW

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  3. #2
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    Sebastopol, California, USA
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    Default

    Nice, simple, looks to have been effective.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    Nice, simple, looks to have been effective.
    Simple, for sure, Bill, just how effective it will prove on a long-ish scraping session I don't yet know!

    I meant to say that it's far from an original idea. I saw something vaguely similar in a magazine, way back (early FWW??), and some years later, Lee Valley came out with their more elaborate scraper holder.

    One reason it took me so long to get around to making something was because not that long after I discovered card scrapers, I picked up a #80 for some ridiculously small amount, and found I could enjoy most of the benefits of a card scraper without the sore thumbs. But it let me down last weekend because it has enough sole to ride over the gullies & undulations on the table, & only wanted to remove the finish from the high spots. It would have been easier to get out a few planes & re-surface the darn thing, but that would've been far too drastic, and not at all what the owners were trying to achieve. So as my thumbs got more & more fed-up, I started thinking, "there's got to be a better way!"

    Seeing the Veritas holder was also an impediment to action because I immediately saw the advantage of that thumb-screw to adjust the amount of bow in the blade, & I wasted much time in trying to figure out a way of incorporating that feature without it all getting too bulky. In the end, I decided the simpler the better, and a fixed bow would do the job. Initially, I was going to extend it either side & make handles,too, but decided they would just add weight & bulk, but would be useful if you wanted to use it as a scraper for round objects.

    There is still a good deal of road-testing to go before I proclaim it a success or failure, but I thought I'd put it up in this 'prototype' stage. Others might like to take the idea a step further, like playing with the shape & size of the holder, to see what works best for them.

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #4
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    I have the Veritas scraper holder; I bought it about 15 years ago along with the variable angle burnisher and the 45/90 degree file holder. It saw a fair bit of work but since I picked up an 80 and a 112 it only comes out in demonstrations.

    I have found the variable angle burnisher is a bit of a white elephant; it is sold as an item which a novice would find quicker and more accurate to use rather than try to learn the intricacies of using a traditional burnisher, but in hindsight learning how to use a normal burnisher takes about 2 minutes (including unwrapping the package it comes in). Providing specific and accurate burnishing angles would be of interest only to someone who has spent years studying and using scrapers and needs to have repeatable settings for specific applications... but has somehow never managed to master a normal burnisher

    The file holder; now that IS an essential item for me. I have an old 1000 grit diamond stone from Timbercon that fits in the file slot so the blades from my 80 and 112 get a mirror polish on the edges before rolling the hook. It can also double up as a saw jointer.

    Scrapers are great whatever method you use. I love that I can get a finish on hardwood with them without resorting to a noisy, dusty sander; if I do choose to use a ROS afterwards I can often start at 400 grit. And they are so cheap! Cut one out of a POS hardpoint saw, file the edge flat, rub it on a sharpening stone/smooth bit of concrete and roll a hook with a screwdriver.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    ......Scrapers are great whatever method you use. I love that I can get a finish on hardwood with them without resorting to a noisy, dusty sander; if I do choose to use a ROS afterwards I can often start at 400 grit. And they are so cheap! Cut one out of a POS hardpoint saw, file the edge flat, rub it on a sharpening stone/smooth bit of concrete and roll a hook with a screwdriver.....
    You're singin' my song, Chief!

    Scrapers were never even mentioned during my school woodwork classes, which seems odd to me in retrospect, given they are cheap, effective, & intrinsically safe, even when (mis)handled by 12/13 year olds. So I didn't discover them until my mid-30s, but it was not love at first sight, I have to say, it took me some time to get the edge right consistently. I'd do it once & it would be perfect, then the next two times it didn't want to cut at all. One day I'd just prepared my scraper & tried a few passes - not even dust! Then by chance I happened to lay the blade over to a very low, finger-pinching angle and suddenly, I was getting bewdiful fluffy shavings! It finally dawned on me I was turning the burr over too far. THAT was when the love-affair started for me.

    Over-rolling the burr is a mistake I've seen newbies make many times since. If you prepare a good edge, it only takes a few light passes with the burnisher to get it cutting very nicely.

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #6
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    Oct 2018
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    Dandenong Ranges
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    Hi CT. I still use my variable angle burnisher but can never remember which side it makes the burr on . I sharpen my blade for my #112 very differently now, thanks to an article by Derek C.

  8. #7
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    given that you are one of the judges for the plane making "contest" I have to ask ...

    does your highly modified #80 -- aka scraper holder -- count as a "plane" in the context of the challenge?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    ...does your highly modified #80 -- aka scraper holder -- count as a "plane" in the context of the challenge?....
    Ian, the judges are yet to decide on the final criteria for judging, but speaking for myself, any blade held by a fixture so that it makes consistent shavings would have to fall under the generic classification "plane" in my book. However, I am barred from entering for starters, & going by the loose criteria that have been proposed by the authors of this project, I don't think it would rate too highly on the scale.
    One proposed criterion is originality. (It's far from original).
    Another is quality of build (It's a bit rough & ready by my standards - don't be fooled by the lick of polish & the knurled brass nuts!).


    Cheers,
    IW

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Ian, the judges are yet to decide on the final criteria for judging, but speaking for myself, any blade held by a fixture so that it makes consistent shavings would have to fall under the generic classification "plane" in my book. However, I am barred from entering for starters, & going by the loose criteria that have been proposed by the authors of this project, I don't think it would rate too highly on the scale.
    One proposed criterion is originality. (It's far from original).
    Another is quality of build (It's a bit rough & ready by my standards - don't be fooled by the lick of polish & the knurled brass nuts!).


    Cheers,
    We have amble supplies of red wine tho [emoji6].

    Cheers Matt.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    avoca beach nsw
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    411

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    Hi All , my scraper history fits the failed early user class.purchased a Stanley 80 20 plus years ago but couldn't get it to fly, probably couldn't restore the edge but its many failures ago.bought Lee Valley scrapers and a variable burnisher but they were mostly unused, due to not getting the basics right, scrapers rusted and i sold them on the forum , hope they have a better home.Then one day i fitted a spoke shave blade in the 80, it came with the used shave but was was shortened by years of use and didn't fit the shave , honed it to 30 degrees as that was my default angle , hey , shavings , joy ,so i honed the 80 scraper blade to 30 , well it worked but quickly didn't. Repurchased scrapers and a real burnisher , tungsten carbide, from Henry Elkhart, refined my technique, hey shavings but my angle is too low, What is wrong , Ian's post about his revaluation of a softer burnish thats my problem, thanks Ian.An old FWW article on the 80 caught my eye, honing angle must be 45 or higher , Eureka again honed at 45 , fantastic shavings think im on the path,thanks Ross

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Then by chance I happened to lay the blade over to a very low, finger-pinching angle and suddenly, I was getting bewdiful fluffy shavings! It finally dawned on me I was turning the burr over too far. THAT was when the love-affair started for me.

    Over-rolling the burr is a mistake I've seen newbies make many times since. If you prepare a good edge, it only takes a few light passes with the burnisher to get it cutting very nicely.
    Yep; that was me too. I thought I really had to reef down hard on the burnisher and ended up with hooks that were somewhat massive. By holding the scraper holder over at a very acute angle I was getting quite thick shavings, but the holder was frequently touching down in a couple of areas and has a few scars! I mean; the technique still worked and I still outdid sandpaper but I knew what I was doing didn't match the pictures. It was watching Richard Vaughn do a live demo at the 2016 TWWS that made me realise my error. Straight after that I bought a real burnisher and haven't looked back since!
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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