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  1. 6th June 2012, 08:45 AM #16
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    Mr Brush
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    Gary - ahhh, so there IS a catch to living in Buderim.

    I have to say its well up my list of places to live when I get a bit older; generally nice climate, not prone to flooding (the high bits anyway), and maybe not such wild winds as we get down here? I'm always checking the area out on real estate websites

    While the wax/EEE are great for handtools, I tend to use that G15 stuff to protect machines when not in use. Its the best surface rust preventative I've found, and I've tried the Lanox and many similar products. Also, one of the biggest aids to keeping machines rust free is to cover them with an old sheet, etc. when not in use.

    Nice bandsaw by the way. Wish I'd saved my pennies for one of those instead of settling for a lesser (Scheppach) one !

    Cheers
    Last edited by Mr Brush; 6th June 2012 at 09:22 AM. Reason: fingers disconnected from brain....
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  3. 6th June 2012, 08:58 AM #17
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    Which CRC product are you using? They make many different sprays for lube, rust prevention, etc., and some of them contain silicone.

    Toby
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  4. 6th June 2012, 09:21 AM #18
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    Mr Brush
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    Sorry - my mistake...
    I meant to say G15 - this stuff

    Jim Davey Planes & Sharpening - eShop - Sales - Workbench Extras - 050-900-01 ..... G15 Rust Inhibitor

    I'll go back and correct my post !
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  5. 7th June 2012, 06:31 PM #19
    andrewr79
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Toby, I wouldn't recommend solid beeswax for plane soles, from my own experience.

    Cheers,
    The liquid form does a nice job though Ian, have you ever tried it?. I think it's cut with turps and I've not had any problem with it building up.
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  6. 7th June 2012, 09:03 PM #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewr79 View Post
    The liquid form does a nice job though Ian, have you ever tried it?. I think it's cut with turps and I've not had any problem with it building up.
    Andrew, yes, it's ok as a paste, though I think you'll find most paste waxes contain other waxes such as carnauba, even if the bee stuff is the main ingredient. I suspect the more important feature is it allows you to apply a very thin coating, but if you try wiping it on from a solid block, you'll see what I mean about a sticky mess....

    Cheers,
    IW
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  7. 8th June 2012, 09:07 PM #21
    snafuspyramid
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    Jim Tolpin in the "New Traditional Woodworker" recommends using a piece of scrap carpet attached to a wooden block kept on the workbench, saturated with camellia oil. I've never tried this.
    Cheers,

    Eddie
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