Thread: Show off your planes

Buy direct from Lee Valley. Aussie dollar is strong at present, so a good time to buy.

Nice collection Speedy. I'm only up to about 15 so far, and they are a bit scattered at the moment. Will take a pic or two when I get them together....

Originally Posted by Greg_stewy

side issue.....

I have finally bit the bullet and decided to buy a Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane after reading various different reviews from people with the extra blade.
What is the best place to buy one of these. I am located in Brissy, but notice that Carbatec on-line price is more than mik pricing. Is it better to go direct to the source? or somewhere else???

Greg.

If you're not in a rush, occasionally Timbecon and Mik have Veritas gear on special. (And recent queries with our online shops showed that most are waiting on V. stuff anyway).

I've also found an assiduous comparison of our online shop prices repays the work.

And if you have a shopping list Mik will listen to offers in my experience.

Good luck.

I'm waiting on mine ... being brought over by a friend. An adjustable mouth on a jack plane is a nifty idea.

... online shops here, FWIW, for handplanes (new):

As noted, Timbecon, Mik, also CTec of course, Lumber Bunker, WoodWorks. Anyone else?

heres mine,

photo1
clifton5
muji modified banana
kunz spoke
muji spoke
stanley rebate
stanley block

all cheapies. they do the business..

photo 2
my prefered hand plane. u need hands to use it so it qualifies, if you dont like it get nicked.

I also have a mak powerplaner N900B ??? is that the model number ? anyway u dont need to see a photo of it

Gotta say this thread is a big handjob fest

Zed's post raises the question for me of what horses for what courses. Eg. if you have an adequate jointer/thicknesser and you're into furniture making, what handplanes do you really need?

A block plane and a #4 or #5. The rest are just for show

So, SC, you have compared an edge jointed with a power jointer and one with a jointer planer?

Regards from Perth

Derek

dont forget a shoulder plane too...

Originally Posted by derekcohen

So, SC, you have compared an edge jointed with a power jointer and one with a jointer planer?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Do you mean a jointer hand plane like a #7?

Yes I'm aware that some people prefer the finish they get with a #7 over what they would get off a jointer. For the fine handcrafted stuff, it's probably almost mandatory.

But I wonder how many furniture makers actually hand joint all their boards? In other words, in the context of the question "if you have an adequate jointer/thicknesser and you're into furniture making, what handplanes do you really need?" do you really need a #7?

SC

When jointing boards for joining, I like to use a sprung joint as this provides a tighter, more seemless joint. This is very easy to do with a jointer plane. Can it be done on a power jointer?

Regards from Perth

Derek

What's a sprung joint Derek?

I'm sure there are not many tasks that you can do with a machine that cannot be done better with hand tools. That's not the debate. The question was "which hand planes you really need?" My answer was tongue in cheek, hence the , however if you are making furniture and you have a decent jointer, you don't really need a #7. After all, they are what the mechanical jointer was invented to replace, were they not?

And the fact that you like to use a sprung joint, excellent recommendation though it is, does not mean that all woodworkers must use this technique. Again I wonder how many furniture makers use them?

Should we have a poll?

BTW I used my jointer to relieve the bottoms of the feet on my lathe bench, which is a process not unlike creating a sprung joint. Not that I would do it that way, but it can be done.

Originally Posted by rsser

What's a sprung joint Derek?

A sprung joint is where you plane a slight concave on the opposing edges of the boards being joined so that there is extra pressure created at the ends when they are clamped. The theory being that the ends of the boards will loose or take on moisture faster and so is the most likely place for the join to fail.