Thread: Planes found lurking in my dads shed.

Mr. Leach says he doesn't use them and tells us that some people like them as a short jointer, which it could be used for. He does however put the # 6 in the category of a fore plane. With an open mouth and a cambered iron these planes make excellent fore planes flattening faces of boards prior to hitting them with the jointer. I would think you could put a Lie Nielsen iron in your 10, I believe they make one.
Mike

Any ideas where I can get a blade for it?

The RB10? Find your nearest Stanley dealer and there should be a pack of 5 replacable blades on the shelf. They don't cost very much but I'd put the money towards one of Helmuts blades for the C6 and let the RB10 continue lurking........
Not sure why the #6 gets the review it does on B & G, they're not much different to use than a #5&1/2.

msiemsen; do you know of anybody that has put a real blade in a RB10?

Originally Posted by seanz

Not sure why the #6 gets the review it does on B & G, they're not much different to use than a #5&1/2.

Maybe he really likes them but wants the price to be low so he can buy them all for himself? Looking at the production dates the number 6s were produced longer than the planes he reckons were better. I need another one so I can make the sign of the devil.

So what does anyone actually use number 10s for? (II guess I can ask Dad what he actually used it for. )

Everything I hear says the RB10 are a piece of junk. I owned my grandfathers for a few year and I admit I never tried to use it. They often had spare blades in the handle. Ok for an occasional user but for frequent uses a more upmarket model would be better. Although I understand holding on to things for sentimental reasons.

Further to your restoration plans The electolytic rust removal will remove all the japanning I would recommend you just strip it down give it a good brush down and see what needs doing. The rust doesent look too bad and I think lapping the sole and sides with sandpaper on glass and a little steel wool and kersoene may give you a better result ie retain more patina than restoring it to new condition. Wax the handles rather than polyurethane them. A wipe down with camelia oil will prevent further rust fo quite a long time.

I recently did a #71 router plane with crap plating and and in this case I used Electrolysis and It loosened the plating. Then brushed it with wire brush on a drill (always secure them to your work surface if doing this) sole lapped and then plane was rinsed in kerosene and allowed to Dry I then wiped in camelia oil and let it dry. Handles cleaned by mounting on a drill and rotating with steel wool and kero then oiled. Before and after attached,



Andrew

anne-maria these planes should clean up nicely.
The number 6 would likely have something on it if it was a Stanley. Can you see anything on the top of the blade?
I would be interested to see a picture of the front and back of the frog with the blade and lever cap removed. Sometimes this can help with identification.
Cheers
SG

Well! Tea Lady, you're going over to the dark side now!!

Onya.

Old planes are prob more addictive than turning tools.

Originally Posted by rsser

Well! Tea Lady, you're going over to the dark side now!!

Onya.

Old planes are prob more addictive than turning tools.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

I cannot see a lateral adjuster in the photo?? If it has no lateral adjuster then its a pre type 5. It does have a lateral adjuster. But no numbers or letters on anything.

Anyway you have a real beauty on your hands.

The number six is an excellent plane. The LN No.6 is the recommended plane in our course for all new students.

Just don't paint 'em with purple japaning.



Those things have a habit of multiplying. Soon you'll be going to the HTPAA tool sales pushing with the rest of them. HTPAA :: Tool Sales

Would be good to see them after you have finished the clean up.

Originally Posted by Christos

Would be good to see them after you have finished the clean up.

Pulled them apart Sunday. The RB10 is particularly c@#%#y. The blade is so flimsy there is a kink in it that I'm sure isn't supposed to be there. I think I'll worry most about fixing up the #6C. The handle is really small. A slightly different shape to the other plastic Stanley handle I have. And the knob is not a tight fit on that little bump on the front. (My other one came off with a pop!) So prolly is a pretender, but hey. I don't mind as long as it does the job.