Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 26 of 26
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    SE Melb
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,278

    Default Try to extract the sheared off stud first

    Suppose I was to repair this plane. I would try to remove the sheared stud as my first preference, and then get the screws and nuts kit from Stanley, because it will be the easiest if it works. Removing a sheared stud is not simple, and sometimes you need a bit of luck, but the following procedure should give me a head start.
    1. File the sheared stud flat as much as possible.
    2. Use a centre punch to get a mark as close to the centre as possible. (might need to sharpen the centre punch to get a precise centre,
    3. Drill a pilot hole slow and smooth, with a 2mm bit first.
    4. Then use a left-hand bit, about 3 to 4 mm, to enlarge the pilot hole, and in doing so, loosen the sheared stud at the same time,
    5. Finally, apply a screw extractor to unscrew to implanted bit out.


    Sometimes, the centre punch alone doesn't stop the bit from wandering off. Then you will need to make a sleeve, over the "bolt hole". I would make a sleeve out of a short length of dowel, reamed out to fit over the seat and pilot hole in the centre to help the centring the drill bit.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ......However you've sourced 1/4"BSW taps, so if you can also find 1/4"BSW dies for the rod then you'll also have perfect matching threads....
    Um, Vann, why not just go to the nearest hardware store & buy a length of 1/4 all-thread? Old School clearly doesn't have a shed full of metal-working gear, & probably has no desire to buy more gear than is necessary to get his plane working. Since he doesn't have the original brass nuts, he won't need to worry about the top bit of thread not matching. New nuts can easily be made from a bit of brass bar, now he has his tap set. You can chuck the brass in your drill & file a waist to look like the originals, but that isn't necessary. Round the top (by chucking it in the drill & filing a dome), and cut your slot carefully & noone will ever know.

    For the record, I replaced the fugly rear totes on the couple of Veritas planes I have. To fit a tote with the same forward slope as a typical old Stanley, I had to bend the studs where they emerge from the sole. I didn't want to do that to the originals, just in case I decided to put the Veritas totes back on for a new owner. The original stud thread is undoubtedly UNC, which is used universally in Canada, thanks to the overwhelming influence of their neighbor, but 1/4" BSW rod screwed in nicely so I used that. Both planes have been in regular use for many years, and one is a scrub, so it has a rugged life. So far, 12 years on & counting, no problems......

    Cheers,

    EDIT: OS, if you don't feel confident you can make the brass dome-nuts, just send me a PM when you get to that stage & I'll make you a couple. The originals are an awkward size if you don't have a full drill set (7/16"). I've probably got a spare tote & knob that would fit, too, so you wouldn't need any extra tooling....
    IW

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    9

    Default

    I forgot to mention I have a set of BSW dies made by Presto including ¼"BSW which I bought maybe 50 years ago during my motor bike days

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    9

    Default

    [QUOTE
    1. File the sheared stud flat as much as possible.

    [/QUOTE]

    Unfortunately that I can't do as the stud has sheared off below ground level. Your post has shown me how little I know even though I've been a handy lad for over 50 years...wow left handed drill bits I didn't know such a thing existed

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    9

    Default

    [QUOTE=IanW;

    EDIT: OS, if you don't feel confident you can make the brass dome-nuts, just send me a PM when you get to that stage & I'll make you a couple. The originals are an awkward size if you don't have a full drill set (7/16"). I've probably got a spare tote & knob that would fit, too, so you wouldn't need any extra tooling....[/QUOTE]

    I have one dome nut and an almost complete 7/16" original stud for the front handle, the remainder is buried in the plane body, the rear tote is in two pieces with no stud or dome nut but has the front screw of the tote which is ok including the hole. The bigger problem is not getting the broken stud out but re-threading with a 7'16" BSW TPI 20 tap and even if obtainable they are not cheap and as stated earlier I'm a user more than a collector so this is why I've opted for the ¼" BSW route and you can get ¼" BSW Bolts in my local hardware easy as so what I was going to do was round off the bolt head and cut a screw driver slot in it. This I can imagine is a shocking thing to do for purists but as I'm learning there are ways to keep it more authentic so your offer of manufacturing a dome nut sounds very enticing so thanks for that and I'll see how I go

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Not far enough away from Melbourne
    Posts
    4,204

    Default

    If the tote is beyond repair this might help.

    https://assets.leevalley.com/Origina...ote-c-06-e.pdf

    Be aware that some modifications are needed on some Stanley models and for other Stanley "knockoffs" it would definitely pay to check out any possible modifications before cutting it out.
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,823

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Um, Vann, why not just go to the nearest hardware store & buy a length of 1/4 all-thread?...
    Hi Ian.

    That post was based more on Old School's comment about not mixing BSW and UNC. I'm assuming that BSW all-thread is not available in this post-BSW era.

    I must admit I haven't checked out what the local big sheds have (other than metric).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ..... I'm assuming that BSW all-thread is not available in this post-BSW era.

    I must admit I haven't checked out what the local big sheds have (other than metric)....
    At the local big shed where I go, you can still get 1/4" all-thread. I should qualify that by saying you could up to 6 or 8 months ago when I last bought some. I have noticed that bolts are gradually becoming all metric, there is a much smaller choice in BSW, and the choice is mostly coach bolts, the hex-heads are mostly metric. I guess someday soon metric will finally reign supreme, but in the meantime us ancient types can remain bi-lingual...

    Cheers,
    IW

  10. #24
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Not far enough away from Melbourne
    Posts
    4,204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    I guess someday soon metric will finally reign supreme, but in the meantime us ancient types can remain bi-lingual...
    Not sure it will ever reign supreme.

    Every 19mm chisel I have ever measured is really 3/4"
    Conversely, I can't make a 2" plane blade out of 50mm tool steel.
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doug3030 View Post
    Not sure it will ever reign supreme.

    Every 19mm chisel I have ever measured is really 3/4"
    Conversely, I can't make a 2" plane blade out of 50mm tool steel.
    Yep, it's a bit of a muddle alright, Doug. You're probably right, the world will never be quite metric until the Yanks decide it's not a communist plot & embrace it. They went decimal with their currency after tossing the Brits out, they use S.I. units in medicine & science, but dammit, they stick to their inches, pounds & gallons!

    Cheers,
    IW

  12. #26
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Not far enough away from Melbourne
    Posts
    4,204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Yep, it's a bit of a muddle alright, Doug. You're probably right, the world will never be quite metric until the Yanks decide it's not a communist plot & embrace it. They went decimal with their currency after tossing the Brits out, they use S.I. units in medicine & science, but dammit, they stick to their inches, pounds & gallons!

    Cheers,
    It has been said that on 7 December 1941, the Japanese embarked on a peaceful mission to deliver a consignment of metric measuring instruments to the Americans at Pearl Harbour. Apparently it ended rather badly.
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Falcon Pope F6 planes
    By Shedhand in forum ANTIQUE AND COLLECTABLE TOOLS
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 2nd December 2016, 02:43 AM
  2. falcon plane problem - thread sizes
    By old_picker in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 26th May 2007, 09:47 PM
  3. falcon/pope 6/7???
    By Greg_stewy in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 16th May 2007, 12:13 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •