Thread: My practise saw

Hi MA,

"...The handle is made of spotted gum and the first time I have tried making one with a lambs tongue. I like them although probably a little fancy for a saw with a hanging hole drilled into the blade."

Your new handle makes the hole look real noice !!!

Cheers
Yvan

PS Where do I find the Bushmiller Method of cleaning sawblades?

Originally Posted by yvan

Hi MA,

"...The handle is made of spotted gum and the first time I have tried making one with a lambs tongue. I like them although probably a little fancy for a saw with a hanging hole drilled into the blade."

Your new handle makes the hole look real noice !!!

Cheers
Yvan

PS Where do I find the Bushmiller Method of cleaning sawblades?

Yvan

I saw your "PS."

It is probably time for a revised description of how I go about such things and I have been meaning to start a new pictorial threadthread. If you can wait, I will put something up. I probably have detailed some information in the past, but I am not sure now where that is. Also, over time I have refined or even changed direction on some aspects. For example, in the early days I dabbled with electrolysis: That is an absolute No No!

In brief, I use W&D paper, moving through the grits from coarse to fine, with water as a lubricant (some people use turps or WD40 as a substitute, but I find them messy, stinky and more expensive). However, you should take great care not to let the water sit without working the saw plate as it will rust. Keep working it and dry thoroughly. Take care with the W&D if you wish to preserve an etch, should it be there or even thought to be there.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

.....Take care with the W&D if you wish to preserve an etch, should it be there or even thought to be there.....

...& most importantly, I think, use a flat block of reasonably firm wood under your paper over the etch area & proceed with care. Folded paper applied with vigour & no rigour can blur an already degraded etch severely (damhik)....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

...& most importantly, I think, use a flat block of reasonably firm wood under your paper over the etch area & proceed with care. Folded paper applied with vigour & no rigour can blur an already degraded etch severely (damhik)....

Cheers,

Thanks Ian

You are correct, but it was a little more detail than my potted version warranted and also not really wanting to do my usual trick of semi hijacking MA's thread, even if it is somehow related. In fact, I have quite precise instructions on that issue: Not so much for the preservation of the etch (any flat block will do that), but to maximise the use of the W&D sheets.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Yvan

I saw your "PS."

It is probably time for a revised description of how I go about such things and I have been meaning to start a new pictorial threadthread. If you can wait, I will put something up. I probably have detailed some information in the past, but I am not sure now where that is. Also, over time I have refined or even changed direction on some aspects. For example, in the early days I dabbled with electrolysis: That is an absolute No No!

In brief, I use W&D paper, moving through the grits from coarse to fine, with water as a lubricant (some people use turps or WD40 as a substitute, but I find them messy, stinky and more expensive). However, you should take great care not to let the water sit without working the saw plate as it will rust. Keep working it and dry thoroughly. Take care with the W&D if you wish to preserve an etch, should it be there or even thought to be there.

Regards
Paul

Looking forward to an updated description! In the meantime I will try my hand with W&D on a pair of pruning saws which have languished in the garden shed for quite a number of years now. They will also be the perfect guinea pigs at my first attempt to sharpen a saw!

Cheers
Yvan

Originally Posted by yvan

Looking forward to an updated description! In the meantime I will try my hand with W&D on a pair of pruning saws which have languished in the garden shed for quite a number of years now. They will also be the perfect guinea pigs at my first attempt to sharpen a saw!

Cheers
Yvan

Yvan

It could be a week or so before I can start on a saw as I am back to work on 12 hour shifts for the moment, but I do hope to get there. Remember that most of the curved pruning saws, if that is what you have, are designed to cut on the pull stroke.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Yvan

It could be a week or so before I can start on a saw as I am back to work on 12 hour shifts for the moment, but I do hope to get there. Remember that most of the curved pruning saws, if that is what you have, are designed to cut on the pull stroke.

Regards
Paul

Hi Paul,

In your own time!

Thank you for pointing out that the saws I plan to rejuvenate cut on the pull stroke!
I hadn't even thought about that!

Cheers,
Yvan