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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,136

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    ... I believe what I have is the Preston No. 2509.....
    Yep, sorry, I was in too much of a hurry & read the number for the wrong model....
    IW

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD
    Posts
    766

    Default Record 073

    In comparison here's my Record 073, much nicer casting.

    Record 73.jpg

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Bris
    Posts
    844

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    Make sure you neutralize the vinegar right away when you get it out of its bath. Scrub off the rust, wash vigorously, (ideally) put on a thick coat of baking soda and water, let it set a minute, wipe it off, pat the whole thing dry, and spray with a penetrating spray (here in the States, we have a "penetrating" spray called WD-40, the "WD" standing for "Water Displacing." Not a great penetrating liquid, but good at keeping the water and thus the rust off).

    You know, I hadn't thought about the fact that it's April 1 over there. Smarter than I realized, I guess. But my offer stands.


    Thanks for the tip, Bill. I don't have any baking soda on hand......


    20230401_125514.jpg













































    .....but here are the parts totally drenched with a WD40 equivalent.


    20230401_103343.jpg











































    20230401_110119.jpg











































    Above are a couple photos of the sole and sides being flattened on my Atoma Diamond plates. I spent a few more minutes after these shots were taken to remove the hollow in the sole and further flatten the sides and making sure the were 90degrees to the sole. Flattening the back of the blade took a lot longer as it had a slight convex. It's times like these I'm grateful that I can use the flat sides of my CBN wheels to get rid of the hump. Then I sharpened the blade freehand up to 16000 grit to the point that it passed the "slicing paper" test. Next, I'll apply some rust prevention spray to all the parts and assemble the plane and take some shots to share the results of a few hours of labour.



    Cheers,
    Mike

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Bris
    Posts
    844

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Jersey CI
    Posts
    215

    Default Preston Bullnose

    Hi Mike,

    It has turned out a great looking plane and usable.
    I have two Preston Bullnose planes, both are full cast so
    cannot undo the front like yours. I also have the 073 Record.
    I also have the Record 311 which is a lovely plane.

    Martin.IMG_20230401_113127.jpg

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Bris
    Posts
    844

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by old workshop View Post
    Hi Mike,

    It has turned out a great looking plane and usable.
    I have two Preston Bullnose planes, both are full cast so
    cannot undo the front like yours. I also have the 073 Record.
    I also have the Record 311 which is a lovely plane.

    Martin.IMG_20230401_113127.jpg


    Thanks Martin, and that's a lovely example of the 311.

    I'm quite surprised how well the 2509 performs. I was always confident that I could restore it and make it a usable plane, but I was surprised that I prefer it to the Veritas. That may change as I use both planes, but from the few shavings this arvo, the Preston definitely handles better than the Veritas. I put this down to the Preston having a lower centre of gravity due to it being wider and shorter both in height and length. When cutting a 16mm rebate in Tas Oak, the Veritas was more prone to tipping over. The Preston fits better in the hand too. No doubt there's a learning curve to both planes, but the Veritas may take longer to get used to.




    Cheers,
    Mike

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