Thread: From my private rust vault

Interesting find Matt. Handle looks nice enough.
The bolt looks like it's been peeled over to make a rivet.
As the nut looks a little proud you may be able file the top off it and remove the nuts.

I think once you lightly jointed the saw prior to sharpening that the set would reduce enough anyway.

I think your right hiroller.
I may just joint it and sharpen it up.
We are talking small teeth not a huge tooth on a ripping saw [emoji849][emoji849][emoji849]

You can reduce the set and bring any errant overset teeth into line by stoning the sides. If you are worried about disturbing the patina on the sides of the plate a wrap of masking tape on the edge of the stone takes care of that.

First sharpen the saw. Then do a few test cuts. If the saw wants to drift, take a pass on the dide it drifts toward. Use a light touch on the stone. You'll rarely need more than a couple of passes each side. Take too much and the saw will bind in the kerf.

The "rivets" are split saw nuts that have been filed right down. To remove them you would have to use a Dremel to saw a slot. However the nuts are likely to be very thin, and you will destroy them. Although they can be replaced, unless the handle is loose, I would leave them alone, gently clean up the handle, clean the saw plate, reduce the set, and use it.

Regard from Perth

Derek

You could drill 2 small holes in the nuts and make up a small 2 pin spanner to fit. As for the set if you went back to rip cut then set problem should be gone. That is unless you really need a crosscut saw in that size.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The "rivets" are split saw nuts that have been filed right down. To remove them you would have to use a Dremel to saw a slot. However the nuts are likely to be very thin, and you will destroy them. Although they can be replaced, unless the handle is loose, I would leave them alone, gently clean up the handle, clean the saw plate, reduce the set, and use it.

Regard from Perth

Derek

Derek,

That was my initial thought to, except I'm not convinced.
Firstly ,why would they do that I can't understand the gain they would achieve from doing that?
Also the timber around the split nuts has no damage from file strokes.
Also ,it does not look to be a bolt and nut .
Both sides of the saw handle look the same .
Ie ,you can see a metal shaft for lack of a better words going through both sides .
Hence ,my thinking it may be a crude rivet of sorts ??

And yes unfortunately the handle is loose!

Cheers Matt

Matt

My first thoughts were the same as Derek's until you said that the saw screws had the same appearance front and back. This leads me to think it has been bodged up at some stage. Having regard to your statement that the handle is indeed loose I think I would drill through the saw screws carefully and replace them with "modern" saw screws.

You are looking at a user saw so I don't think anything is lost by going down this track. I agree with Bridger on the excessive set that if after sharpening the set is still too much it can be reduced by stoning. I also have some small 6" smooth files which I use very lightly for the same purpose.

It's a cute little saw. As IanW will tell you that once you reach that number of ppi there is not much difference between rip and crosscut and rip is easier to do. Probably the rake is more of an issue and that may be why it is a little difficult to start. You could consider 10 to 12 degs of rake. A close inspection of the teeth (with your loupe) may show that there is zero rake.

If you want to salvage the screws to see how they were used I'd go with John's (Orraloon) suggestion and make up a spanner a little like an angle grinder tool.

The handle looks a little like Beech.

Regards
Paul

Your bolted/nut assembly has been filed, but more probably 40grit hand sanded. The way the heads were sanded was with the 40 grit on a block, and carefully.
Don't ask me for rhyme or reason for why someone did that, I'm no genius.

You can take out the set actively (rather than passively as per the stoning suggestion) by the application of a hammer and anvil... but gentle hands does it.

I would not disassemble and clean it to the extent you are thinking of, just spirit clean the surfaces properly, oil, and then treat the teeth.

Sorry if this is a dissenting opinion (to the crew), but its how I do/did/whatever it.

To remove the excess set (and retain sufficient set), rap a layer of blue tape along and around the teeth. As Clinton writes, avoid stoning the teeth.

Then, gently hammer the teeth (with a steel hammer) on a hard, flat surface (cast iron tablesaw or jointer top). Failing this, clamp a hammer in a vise to use as an anvil, and hammer onto this.

The blue tape will prevent you removing all the set (paper does not compress well), and the tape is the same thickness as the set you want. So, if the teeth start showing through the paper, you are done.

Regards from Perth

Derek

First ,thank you all for the advice, but I must say for a group who I would guess at mostly being over 40 plus middle class.

I'm quite concerned ,can we please stop the religious hatred assumptions.

I do not think I need to throw stones at the little bugger.
With my own personal atheist view point, plus a heavy dose of black sabbath , NIN and a bit of incense stick burning.
In its new home in my creative zone.
The saw is not going to end a god lover of sorts.

Cheers Matt
Ps : anyone with a spare goat for a sacrifice can you pm [emoji56][emoji56]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Matt, I too would refrain from trying to get the saw stoned, however fun it may seem.

Matt

A couple of things here (that means at least three and I know what the Oxford dictionary says but it is wrong; A couple is at least three tending to four ).

Firstly this middle aged thing. It is something is see as a missed opportunity .

Secondly if you are resorting to stoning I think it should be the saw rather than you as those saw screws are going to be fiddly. Incidentally many people cut around the head of the screws with a sharp knife to minimise the possibility of wood fibres lifting as the screws are removed. A very fine marking knife or a scalpel type implement would be perfect for this and I think you should consider it when I look at how closely the screws are bedded in.

Secondly (part B) I have to say I would be a little wary of removing set by any form of hammering. The reason I say this is that assuming the saw screws are indeed split nuts, albeit modified for whatever bizarre reason, it makes the saw quite old. The Glover patent for "modern" saw screws dates from 1887 and I think we can probably reason that it was such a huge improvement that by the end of the century nobody in their right mind was using split nuts. In fact I would suggest, without knowing categorically, that they had ceased to be used from the early 1890s onwards.

The old style (thin) split nuts may be nostalgic and quaint, but they are not good.

Anyhow, my point is that your saw is probably between 125 years and 150 years old. Age hardening and work hardening are real issues and I would be reluctant to subject the teeth to further stress, particularly when there are far more gentle alternatives available to you.

Secondly (part C), the very fact that the teeth have been too aggressively set may have pushed the steel to it's limit in the first place.

Finally(or secondly if you prefer) on the subject of class you might be amused by this old classic. I rather shamefacedly have to admit that I saw the original .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VxkltwS9g0

(Modified the link again. My memory is that there was still more but not shown on the clips. I thought that at the finish Corbett rips off his overalls to reveal an evening suit, but maybe my memory is playing tricks.)




Regards
Paul

Matt; your might have been a little over generous with that backsaws tpi count.

Anyone else want to count that saws tpi.

Stewie;

Good point (oops) Stewie.

I would hazzard a cross-eyed guesstimate at 12ppi (11tpi). That would also explain why it is filed crosscut.

Regards
Paul