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18th March 2009, 07:21 PM #91
I am excited about this one.
I have searched the net on all things regarding making your own saw's and printed it off. I have a stack of papers and cannot wait to get started.
Bring it on Ray
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18th March 2009 07:21 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd March 2009, 03:58 PM #92Novice
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- Dec 2008
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- Melbourne
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I haven't visited the forums for a couple of weeks and have just seen the picture of the shiny saw plate. It's beautiful. Can't wait to get a hold of some.
Thanks again Ray.
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23rd March 2009, 05:29 PM #93Senior Member
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- Aug 2007
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Sweet - the plate looks nice and shiny - Thanks Ray (and Mike!!).
regards
Anthony
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26th March 2009, 08:45 PM #94
Ray,
I have not been following this thread for a while bit today in bunnies I stumbled over some floor scraper blades so was wondering if there is any brass left.
Regards
John
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26th March 2009, 09:57 PM #95
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23rd April 2009, 01:11 PM #96
Hi Ray, just wondering how the brass is going? Reading http://www.backsaw.net/ has got me all moitivated.
( not that I really have time to start making saws so SWMBO wont mind if it takes a while )
regards
Ian
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23rd April 2009, 08:56 PM #97
Hi Ian,
I haven't heard anything from the guy doing the machining, I think it's about time to go and see how he is going... I'll let you know tomorrow.
Regards
Ray
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23rd April 2009, 09:46 PM #98
Thanks Ray, by the way I love the web site, it one of the best.
Ian
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24th April 2009, 05:58 PM #99
Just an update..
The brass slitting job is still in the job queue, the delay is primarily due to the difficulty accurately slitting the long lengths. (plus I haven't been hassling him) I will check back with him next week.
Regards
Ray
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27th April 2009, 09:23 AM #100
Ray, it did occur to me at the time that slitting such long lengths may have been a problem, even for a well set-up shop. It needs care to keep the saw tracking accurately with my Heath-Robinson set-up, I have to take multiple passes with a shallow cut each time, or the cut goes off. I don't quite know why, but I suspect it is caused by the blade heating & warping if you push it too hard. I thought these blokes might have some secret that would allow it to be done in a single pass. A pretty tedious job doing that many metres at a mm or so per pass like I do them!!
Hope it gets sorted soon - all that pent-up sawmaking out there....
Cheers,IW
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1st May 2009, 01:51 AM #101Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 330
Brass back stock for sawmakers
Some thing to think about. While I was engaged in using my biscuit machine it occurred to me would it be possible to adapt a biscuit machine to take a thin metal cutting blade , you then would be able to cut the grooves in the brass for the saw blades. You would also need to set up some type of jig to hold the brass strip securely while you carried out the operation. The speed would no doubt be a problem . The biscuit machine is actually a modified angle grinder adapted to take a wood cutting blade.
It is only a thought
Regards.
Mac
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1st May 2009, 02:14 AM #102.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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A biscuit cutter would be too inaccurate and there would be a lot of mucking around with setup.
A good solid table saw with good solid fence in short lengths with some lube might be better/
For small saws, what about this?
"www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Saws_and_slots/Fret_Slotting_Table_Saw_Blade.html"
Or a mcjing 123110-0.8 would probably do it - I might buy one and have a fiddle with it!
See this page "www.mcjing.com.au/engineering/toolframe.htm"
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1st May 2009, 09:11 AM #103
Bob - yep, just what I got. I paid a bit over $30, for an arbor and two saw blades: 0.5mm, which is just right for the 20 thou stock RayG has obtained, and 0.75mm, which is the size for the Bunnies scraper blades. Amortised over the 10 saws I have already made, plus slitting some brass for others, it has earnt its keep already!
Here's my setup (design borrowed heavily from RayG's) - I think the pics are self-explanatory. Just a couple of things I 'discovered' - my drill-press table shifts a bit as I tighten it down, so I have to be very careful when centering & levelling the base of the jig (pic 3) and setting the depth of the cut. I found it easiest to level the saw blade with it almost on the base of the jig, then set the cutting height by moving the arbor in the chuck - a bit fiddly, but it gets there. I also made some practice pieces out of carefully-sized bits of scrap hardwood, to get the feel of it. As I said above, take multiple passes, with the brass pressed firmly against the fence (advancing the cut by about 2mm a time seems to work well), and you'll get a nice clean, straight slot, which is what you are aiming for...
Make sure your drill-chuck arbor is firmly in place - drills aren't really meant for machining operations like this, and it may come loose.
!!WARNING!! This darned saw-making business is highly addictive! I had only planned to make 3 or 4; so far I've made about 10, and I've still got several more planned......
Cheers,IW
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1st May 2009, 02:13 PM #104Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth
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- 330
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1st May 2009, 02:31 PM #105
Malcolm,
Yep - this is an off-the-shelf set. I got it from McJing's - probably not the quality you'd use for building the Space Shuttle, but handles brass with great ease. The link in BobL's post above didn't parse, so I'll try again - look here:
http://www.mcjing.com.au/engineering/toolframe.htm
You need either the 12260-0.5 saw for 20 thou slots (the stuff RayG has imported) or the 12260-0.8 saw for 30 thou material (the Bunnies scraper blades). I THINK the correct arbor is their part number 712-0220, but if it doesn't match the saw blades, they'll tell you (I ordered the wrong arbor size and they sorted me out...)
Cheers,IW
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