Thread: Radiata pine for workbench

Like so. Stretchers are two laminated pieces, top is three sheets of yellowtongue.

Not too sure how I'm gonna mount my vices, but I'll worry about that when I get to it.

Maybe a pine top wouldn't be so bad...

I know there's at least one person with considerable experience around here that's an advocate of pine workbenches (can't quite remember who...IanW maybe?).

I think the thing that rang true to me from an earlier thread was that if you're just starting out, or quite new to woodwork is that this is unlikely to be your last bench. You will find as you use it what you do and don't like so it's probably best not to break the bank getting hardwood for it.

I've been working on an upgraded foldup bench for a year and decided to go down a similar route to you - pine base and thick Merbau top, I manged to pick up two rather hefty pieces this morning in 1.4m lengths at a reasonable price to make the top so I'm not worried about weight. Recycled pine from palletes for the legs, lap joints because I know I can get then right where I'm not so sure about my m&t joints.

Any stable workbench is better than no workbench!

I think you might want a stretcher along the top under the workbench for strength and to mount your vice, you're going to need some support there I think.

Originally Posted by andrewr79

I think you might want a stretcher along the top under the workbench for strength and to mount your vice, you're going to need some support there I think.

Definitely. And the bottom ones don't need to be so big.

Originally Posted by andrewr79

I think you might want a stretcher along the top under the workbench for strength and to mount your vice, you're going to need some support there I think.

Yes, you might be right.

I'm starting to consider construction pine for the workbench, as well. Maybe with just a single sheet of yellowtongue on top to protect the surface, as I think it's probably true that pine is too soft to survive long on its own.

I just realised that I posted this in the wrong sub-forum; apologies guys.

I had one bench made of cheap pine with a sacrificial top of burnie board glued on to a blockboard top using impact adhesive. The idea was to change the burnie board when needed. It never was needed after more than five years of use.
Cheers,
Jim

I am a metalworker, and I have said many times here I'm hopeless at woodwork.

My partners family are cabinetmakers and carpenters. The boss worked with them when she was young. Her father is a master of his craft.

A couple of years ago he built a workbench under her house to help with some repairs he was doing. He used builders pine from the local hardware. Masterpiece ? No. Works well ? Oh yes.

It seems you should be aiming for a weight around the 150 kg mark, or so people say. You can get that with suitably chunky pine. Some of the designes in woodsmith are in douglas fir, near enough to radiata (ducks and runs away).

One problem you may encunter is in mortising the timber. I have read here that pine can be a bit hard to mortise cleanly.

The big advantage IMO in pine is the top is soft so if you plonk your work down on a bit of woodchip or something (or swarf in my workshop) it's more likely to get pushed into the bench than the job, which can be good.

2c.

Originally Posted by damian

One problem you may encunter is in mortising the timber. I have read here that pine can be a bit hard to mortise cleanly

There's a few designs out there that laminate lengths of pine for legs to avoid this. Basically three layers with the slots left for the stretchers for this reason. They just use aquadere and it appears from what I've read to hold up just fine. I'm planning to do this in about 20 minutes so will let you all know how it feels once it sets!

Originally Posted by andrewr79

I know there's at least one person with considerable experience around here that's an advocate of pine workbenches (can't quite remember who...IanW maybe?)........

Nope, not me, Andrew. If pine was all I could get, then pine it would be, but if I were to 'advocte' any particular wood type, it would have to be "Xylus skippius". Skips have been the source of raw materiaal for several benches I've made......

Originally Posted by andrewr79

......Any stable workbench is better than no workbench!

I heartily agree!

Radiata is a 'hard' pine, and should make a reasonable bench. Just use generous sections to add a bit of weight. I would have some minor concerns about the durability of dog holes, but if you use an adequately-sized hole, it will probably be ok (assuming you intend to use bench dogs or hold-downs). If you aim for a weight of at least 75Kg, it should be fine- my "portable' bench weighs less than that & it's quite ok for planing on. Of course, more weight is probably better, but you CAN get a bit carried away. Most of us end up moving house at least once in a lifetime......

Cheers,

My current bench is made from Radiata (with a MDF top) and is perfectly fine. It has an interchangeable twin-screw/10" iron front vice and Record type tail vice.

I would like a much longer bench, but I'm not sure I'd change much else.

Originally Posted by IanW

I were to 'advocte' any particular wood type, it would have to be "Xylus skippius". Skips have been the source of raw materiaal for several benches I've made......

Recycling is good for the environment and the wallet!.

Snafu, have you already got a bench to build this on? Right now my benchtop is face down on the floor and I'm building upside down because of a lack of any surface big enough...once this is done the problem's solved of course!!

Remember to do any cleanup before assembly - planing, sanding, rounderovers etc because it's going to get hard once it's together. I'm even considering staining the base and oiling the top, so will do that before it's assembled.

Good Lord Woodwould, there's something wrong with that bench...

Ahh, I know. We can see the top surface . Where's all the tools, junk, half finished projects, and bits and pieces the wife puts there for fixing?

Vann.

Well, I thought I'd follow Schwarz' advice; build a set of sawhorses and use those to construct the bench on.

As far as the top goes, I'm starting to think that the best approach would be to laminate together some construction grade pine - say 90x45 - and then stick a single layer of yellowtongue on top (I would use MDF like Woodwould, but I'd worry about how it would enjoy getting wet - I'm a messy sharpener). Maybe a skirt to make it prettier.

That way, I wouldn't have to worry about the rounded corners on construction grade pine (nor have to pay for nice square furniture grade), and wouldn't have to go crazy planing the thing.

Plus, I can always replace a $15 bench surface.

As far as the joints go, I won't be heartbroken if my mortises are a little funny. First, the pine is cheap as chips, so I can always try again. Second, I'll be using Veritas bench bolts (or similar) for the stretchers and desk screws (not sure what they're actually called; the ones you find on Officeworks and Ikea junk) to attach the top. Hopefully that means I can tighten the joints if they start to wobble.

Sounds sensible. I look forward to seeing the result. I'm just taking a short break from my build to boil the kettle, email SWMBO'd who's at work, and to let the glue dry!