Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4,969

    Default Rasp sharpening again

    I've tried something that works, I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere but it seems so bleedingly obvious that someone should have done it before and there may be reasons why you wouldn't want to. But I thought I'd drop it here for anyone interested in more rigorous study to play around with. I've got three old rasps working very well this afternoon so it's enough for me to be going on with sharpening my cheaper carpentry rasps.

    I decided to wipe a cheap rasp with a medium diamond stone to hone off all the rounded tips. The rasp cut terribly before and after cut very well. When I touched the teeth it reminded me of what Ian told me when sharpening a hand saw, a sharp one should feel sticky when you touch the teeth, this feels a bit the same way.

    I honed like this, laying the stone flat on the rasp on the flat side and flat along the length of the round side and tilting to cover the whole side. I took metal off more efficiently than I expected, and I created flats a little bigger than I wanted to initially.
    IMG_9947.jpgIMG_9957.jpg

    I wiped a superfine diamond stone over too, just to create a finer surface. This is a cheap handstitched rasp that I bought as a job lot of tools so I know nothing about it, no marks. I've created chisel points (or maybe closer to scraper edges ) on most of the teeth, some a little lower didn't have much taken off. It cut fantastically well so I did a blunt Nicholson and a round rasp too, all three now are very good and serviceable.
    Try it on your cheap rasps see how you go. This is what I'm looking to achieve on each tooth.

    IMG_9940.jpg

    I think a little lick with the diamond hones when they start feeling dull will extend their lives a bit more. This is what it looks like now. Not great photos but if you zoom in you can see the flats. They vary a bit due to the hand made nature of the stitching

    IMG_9937.jpgIMG_9938.jpg


    anyway see how you go...

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4,969

    Default Fettling used rasps

    Despite my best attempts to moderate my natural scientific curiosity, my brain and my habit of problem solving when drifting on that pond between wakefulness and sleep has conspired against me.

    Why did the diamond stone cut the steel so quickly?
    Why did the rasp go from cutting abysmally to cutting so well I used useless terms like 'cuts fantastically'

    The answer was in front of me. Zoom into the photos of the rasp and notice the variation in the size of the flats (cut on the teeth); there's a big range from very obvious through to barely or not perceptible.

    So, the teeth were quite different heights and the diamond stone was borne by fewer than the full contingent of teeth, perhaps relatively few.

    This explains:

    Why the diamond stone cut the steel so quickly.

    Why the rasp was so bad to begin with. The high teeth would have been doing the lion's share of the work, leaving a coarse finish and dulling quickly. Once dull the rasp essentially stopped working.


    The diamond stone sharpened the dull teeth, but also importantly, allowed the whole contingent of teeth to start doing their fair share of work. This is why honing this rasp made such a big difference, not only to the speed of cut but the quality of the finish.

    I haven't checked the machine made Nicholson I fettled, but I suspect its teeth are much more uniform.

    I now have to look at my cache of Chinese-made hand-stitched rifflers, some of which are so bad they're better termed RSO's (rasp shaped objects)

    more food for thought

    Edit: I have a new appreciation for the skill of the hand stitchers; not only do they have to manage some semblance of uniformity in the pattern of teeth, but also strike so consistently as to raise the teeth to a consistent height.


    Cheers
    M

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,132

    Default

    Well, at least I can see how this method could refresh the leading edges of the teeth, unlike the acid-bath method that simply takes an even layer off, leaving teeth that are cleaner, perhaps, but still rounded.

    I've got a very tired Liogier modeller's rasp that I've worked to death on very hard woods and it struggles to cut anything much harder than balsa now. There's nothing to lose with that one, so it's going to get a lick or two of diamond file later today. I'll let you know if I have the same successful outcome. I'll be overjoyed if I get any improvement at all, that rasp is a favourite so extending its life by even a little would be a bonus....

    Cheers,
    IW

Similar Threads

  1. Rasp one...
    By D.W. in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 8th May 2023, 02:07 AM
  2. Rasp ID
    By Thumbthumper in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 5th July 2019, 09:11 PM
  3. What Rasp?
    By Anorak Bob in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 19th February 2012, 01:35 PM
  4. Router Rasp
    By tergar37 in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 13th April 2010, 11:53 PM
  5. rasp?
    By Deesinister in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 16th October 2008, 11:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •