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Thread: Reconditioning moulding planes
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6th July 2015, 10:04 AM #16
Reconditioning moulding planes
Ahh Stewie, you are a legend !
I had a read of your build thread. Looked like fun ... and nice work !
On my plane, the recess for the adjustment plate would be less than 1/32 deep, and there are no visible screw holes to indicate a brass plate was inset and screwed into position. On the box piece, there are no holes or even marks to indicate a screw has been pressed against the box locking into place.
Any ideas ?
Finally, did I read your message right ? You have a 1 1/2 iron you are prepared to part with ? If so, please PM bank details and what you want and I will send through $$.Glenn Visca
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6th July 2015, 11:53 AM #17Deceased
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Hi Glen. My apologies. I dont have any 1 1/2" plane irons available . Closest to that size is 1 1/4".
I can recommend the U.K seller that Hiroller mentioned. I have purchased most of my plane iron stock from the same source.
regards Stewie;
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6th July 2015, 12:42 PM #18
Thanks Stewie ... much appreciate the offer.
Do you have a view on the other part of my post about the depth mechanism ?Glenn Visca
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6th July 2015, 12:55 PM #19Deceased
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6th July 2015, 03:48 PM #20GOLD MEMBER
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You might get a few ideas and tips from here
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...oulding+planes
Paul Sellers recently did a video on sharpening them which is on that link but a fair way down.CHRIS
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6th July 2015, 04:31 PM #21
Thanks Chris. I saw that one pop into my inbox over the weekend ... and it was very helpful.
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710a using TapatalkGlenn Visca
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7th July 2015, 02:25 AM #22GOLD MEMBER
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Late to the game here, but:
* check straightness, don't be afraid to plane or lap the business face of the plane if needed to get a flat reference side
* fit wedge and make a new one if necessary
* spend fair time getting the iron in perfect nick before going at it, and put a bevel steep enough to prevent chipping
It's not critical that the planes be perfect front to back if the above is right, but if you find that you can't take both a thick and thin shaving (as you will be able to with a well fit wedge and a well matched iron to the plane base profile) you'll be pretty upset with the tearout that will occur.
The work they do in a moulding is little if you do the prep work well to that point, and it's over in a flash. It is "by eye" work once you've laid out a profile on the end of a stick.
I've you've got a pair with bad soles, get light weight sandpaper and slowly alternate using the profiles of each to sand the other until they are match and flat. Don't get too quick with it you're you'll make the soles convex along their length, which also isn't a great big problem for an experienced user, but it's still better to avoid.
Clean up one pair and use them on a test profile, and then see how they work. It will tell you a lot about what you need to know re: the functioning of the others. Far better to do that than clean them all up first and then learn more about them second.
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10th July 2015, 12:32 PM #23
Well I started the task of giving the planes a gentle clean up.
We have planes from manufacturers including:
* Marples & Sons
* Mathieson & Sons
* Moon
* Atkin & Sons
* Currie
* W. Wells Williamsburg, Mass
* Mosely & Sons
* Cox & Luckman
Not many hollows and rounds in there (just two or three pair I guess), with most being bead planes or what I would describe as complex moulding planes. Sorry, but my lack of knowledge doesnt let me categorise them as anything else.
Here are some images of the comples moulding planes.
#1 - Maker=Nil, 7/8 stamp, Craftsmen=Gillet, Hayball, Harris
IMAG1118.jpg
#2 - Maker=Mathiesons, no size stamp, Craftsmen=Nil
IMAG1119.jpg
#3 - Maker=Currie, no size stamp, Craftsmen=Hayball, Hailes
IMAG1120.jpg
#4 - Maker=Nil, no size stamp, Craftsmen=Wm Moss, Burton
IMAG1121.jpg
#5 - Maker=Mathiesons, 7/8 size stamp, Craftsmen=Nil
IMAG1122.jpgGlenn Visca
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