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Thread: Record 043 Plough Plane.
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19th October 2016, 06:48 PM #1Deceased
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Record 043 Plough Plane.
Purchased this (pre 1964) Record 043 back in April 2010. Supplied by the manufacturer with 3 blade widths, 1/8, 3/16, & 1/4".
Its primary function is for cutting grooves. Can be worked against the grain. Not ideal for cross grain dado's. Best used with a fine set below the bottom line of the skate. As with most Plough Planes, your start at the forward end of the board, and work your way back as you deepen the cut.
Stewie;
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19th October 2016 06:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th October 2016, 07:27 PM #2Senior Member
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Very much in demand when they occasionally show up for sale, too.
I found two at the same time a couple of years ago. One went in the collection and the other I sold on a well known internet selling site. For well north of $100, which surprised me somewhat.
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19th October 2016, 07:34 PM #3Deceased
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This one cost me $73.00 (au) from the u.k back in 2010.
Stewie;
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19th October 2016, 08:09 PM #4
I picked one up at the end of August for just under $70 including shipping. Used, but in very good condition and came with extra blades too. Was absolutely gobsmacked at the winning bid as I was prepared to nudge 3 figures to get it.
Stewie; that seems to be a massive fence you've fitted. The fences on my 44 and 778 are about 1-1/4 deep" and probably only about 3/8" thick; I had intended to make a similar sized one for the 43 also. What advantages have you found with using such a large block of wood?Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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19th October 2016, 10:15 PM #5Deceased
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Chief; If you have ever tried to use the 043 without an auxiliary fence you would understand its a nightmare trying to balance the plane while keeping the fence tight against the work piece.
The auxiliary fence fitted is 25 x 30mm. I chose to use a softwood over a hardwood in order to better balance the weight felt on the outboard side of the plane. The extra thickness provides for improved registration of the fingers of the left hand on the underside of the fence. That extra thickness also allowed me to use longer 1/2" round head screws to better draw the auxiliary fence tight against it primary. With the extra thickness provided I also have plenty of scope in the future to resurface the inside face of the auxiliary fence as wear from being rubbed tightly against the edge off the work piece takes it toll.
The extra depth provided by the auxiliary fence provides a deeper registration against the work piece.
It may not show clearly within the attached photos, but a 1/8" deep V shaped rebate has been added which follows the bed line of the blade. This prevents the shavings from getting caught if the rebate is started at the very edge of the work piece.
regards Stewie;
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20th October 2016, 04:28 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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I can't comment on that one, but on ebay UK the metal plow planes are practically pouring out of the site. I ordered a novelty plane a couple of days ago (Marples M50), and will see how it compares to the later record types (044c and 050c, both of those types are pretty nice). I had a side grip stanley 50 years ago, one with no adjuster to keep the iron from creeping around in the grip, and never did like it much as the iron would advance while cutting no matter what you did. If I still had it, I'd try to scuff the casting and sand the sides of the irons to get a grip, but just getting a better designed plane is a better idea.
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20th October 2016, 12:46 PM #7
One of my favourite planes - so much so that I have 3 of them, so I don't have to change blades. AS I mentioned elsewhere, when you take a blade out the piece with a screw that holds the blade tight in place is free to wander away (and does in my shop). Only having to take the blade out to sharpen it has reduced the time lost in playing 'hunt the missing piece'....
I also agree that adding an auxiliary fence helps a lot with registration and, as a result with keeping the plane vertical and parallel to the edge. I put the front hand palm upwards between the rods with fingertips pressing the fence against the workpiece and then curl the fingers so the palm supports the curved piece between the rods. Once you get used to this grip, the plane is a delight to use.Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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20th October 2016, 01:50 PM #8Deceased
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Jeremy; you should know the forum rules, no photo's, it didn't happen.
Stewie;
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20th October 2016, 01:52 PM #9
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20th October 2016, 02:03 PM #10Deceased
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Ian; it a handy set up for those awkward planing tasks.
Stewie;
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20th October 2016, 04:01 PM #11
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20th October 2016, 05:11 PM #12
I prefer a deeper but thinner subfence. I do not see the point of making it thick - this simply reduces some of the rod length. The ideal subfence for me is like the one on my Small Plow ..
The one on my Rapier #043 has less depth, mainly because it is used for smaller pieces. The #043 was used for the curved rebate which I added to the drawer bottom below ...
Incidentally, I have two sets of rods for my #043, one short and one long. The short rods plus the thinner fence reduces the mass and increases feedback.
For those interested, I wrote a comparison of the #043, #044 and Small Plow here about a decade ago. Reading through the article, there are helpful tips for setting up the fence of the #043.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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20th October 2016, 06:43 PM #13Deceased
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Derek; for the benefit of the members, I thought we were trying to keep our distance.
Was it too much to ask. !!!
Stewie;
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20th October 2016, 07:22 PM #14Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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21st October 2016, 07:28 AM #15
Photo showing how I hold the fence
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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