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Thread: Recording Sawset
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14th May 2013, 05:44 PM #1
Recording Sawset
This is just a bookmark entry that will hopefully flesh out later.
Homesy visited with a new 'all purpose' hardpoint saw (8pt) to compare vs my worn Irwin (12pt) and other presharpened handsaws.
I just want to keep a record of some noteable details.
The new hardpoint cut well - speedily but not surgically.
The older Irwin was as expected slower to cut, but well held in its kerf.
On measuring (as best we could) the set - I thought I had made a blue - both 52 thou.
But then it occurred to me to measure the blades - New = 37thou, Irwin = 42thou
New saw = 37thou +/+7.5 ... blade takes up 71% of the kerf
Irwin 42+/+5 ... blade takes up 81% of the kerf.
A vintage crosscut saw Disston #12, 12pt, very fine set. Kerf = 35thou, blade = 33thou. Blade takes up 94% of the kerf.
Disston #16 10pt. 52thou vs 37thou. 71%
Bishop #12 10pt. 67thou vs 43thou. 64%
Simonds 371 10pt. 54thou vs 41thou. 76%
It is quite a surprise to see that the #16 (our favourite) was 'identical' to the new hardpoint at the toothline.
Halfway along its back it measures 20thou - so has significant taper, where the hardpoint had none ...
But the hardpoint felt a little loose in its kerf - whereas the #16 felt about perfect.
Yet theoretically it can 'wobble' more in the kerf because of the taper.
Thanks,
Paul (and Paul)
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16th May 2013, 12:52 AM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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A very subjective comparison
Cross-cutting
As Paul says above, we spent a couple of hours cutting a piece of jarrah to assess the sawing ability of freshly hand sharpened 100 year old saws versus a new, sharp hard point saw.
The hard point saw was a Spear and Jackson Predator X saw (model B98X). I cost $20. As this saw is an 8 tpi, we compared it to other 8 tpi saws.
http://www.spear-and-jackson.com/sit...on%20guide.pdf
The Predator X saw crosscut the fastest. Without going too much into numbers it cut through the timber in 16 strokes. The 100-year-old saws took 24 strokes to perform the same cut. The kerf produced by the Predator X was much more ragged than that produced by the other saws.
Here comes the big BUT – but I enjoyed using the 100 year old saws more. My hand was further away from the cutting action as there was more blade under the handle. They crosscut slower but felt just right, smoother, magic.
In contrast, sawing with the Predator X felt utilitarian, dispassionate. A means to an end. And, of course, this is what the Predator X is designed for. Designed to cut timber quickly, time and time again, with the idea of getting the job done quickly in order to move onto the next task.
Rip-cutting
A comparison of rip cutting ability, however, produced different results. The Predator X was compared to a couple of older saws rip sharpened with 5, 5.5 and 7 tpi (from memory). While the Predator X performed the task, it did not cut as quickly or smoothly as the dedicated rip saws. I was amazed at how quickly and smoothly the older saws cut through the jarrah. One saw, I think it was a machine filed Disston D-100, 5tpi, cut so smoothly and cleanly it felt like the jarrah wasn’t there.
We also tried rip cutting with some “straight from eBay” rip saws. These hadn’t been sharpened. Predictably, the results were poor. They cut the timber but had to be forced to do so.
Conclusion
If your saw needed to earn a living for you or needed a saw to build a kid’s cubby, pergola or chook run then buy the Predator X. If you woodwork for pleasure get hold of a well sharpened and tuned crosscut saw. It will be a joy to use.
If your job or hobby involved a lot of hand ripping I’d be inclined to recommend a sharp dedicated 5 tpi rip saw. In fact after using a sharp rip saw I might be tempted to hand cut some veneers. The older saw really did move that nicely through the wood.
Notes
The sharpened older saws readily snagged the skin on my hand. No pressure was needed to catch my skin. This was also the case with the Predator X saw.
Thanks to Paul (McGee) for letting me, a left-hander, use his saws. I had never used a sharp older saw until today and had always wondered how they performed. Thanks Paul, appreciated.
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16th May 2013, 06:18 AM #3
Yep ... I insisted we try a kitchen knife before getting the saws out :P
I guess someday we should get a S&J ripsaw if they have that and try it out.
Actually I might look out for a new version of that Irwin.
It left a more burnished and less ragged surface than the new S&J - but it is *well* used.
I wonder if a new one of the same would be more aggressive through being freshly machined ... and if your new S&J might mellow with use.
Paul & I have had the thought that - while we enjoy (worship?) at the altar of vintage saws - it was worth some assessment of how some new-type saws compared. The Irwin has a big grip that fits my four fingers easily and doesn't help with the sawing, but Paul's S&J actually had a smaller grip that suited a three-finger grip with an indentation for the pointed index finger. Still obviously not a carved 1890s Groves & Sons feel ... they couldn't get the rubber, you know.
Welcome anytime, Paul.
Cheers,
Paul
PS - Paul had leant me some saw catalogue reprints that he had ordered ... and of course had to come around personally to rip them out of my greedy little fingers but out of 4 catalogues all about the same period ... 1910-1920-ish ... Simonds, Disston and Atkins (US) were selling plier-type sawsets ... S&J (UK) had saw wrests.
Also there is a wide selection of big crosscut saw tooth-profiles available ... pages of them ... and Simonds had patterns "especially designed for the Australian market" (!) ... S&J I would understand ... don't know why the Simonds connection.
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