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  1. #1
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    Default Refurbing a cute little Spiers thumb plane

    A cute little plane popped up in another thread & caused a bit of excitement amongst the plane tragics, including myself, to the point we hijacked the thread grievously, getting carried away about this somewhat rare (almost certainly Spiers-made) “thumb plane” (my apologies, Roy, but we did stay mostly with small planes, so not too far off-topic! ).

    Anyway, in the ensuing discussion I offered to make some replacements for the missing bits,which was accepted and the plane was duly delivered to my door by my friendly Auspost man. My offer was partly altruistic, and partly because I have been thinking about making some thumbscrews with head shapes & knurling that is more in keeping with late 19thC designs, so here was an opportunity to test my ideas & see if I could produce a reasonable facsimile of the style fitted to these planes when they were made.
    This is the plane “as found”: 1 as found.jpg

    At some point in its life, the thumbscrew had been lost, and the blade either used up completely or lost (my guess is the former, this plane is around 150 years old & would appear to have been much-used in its day) and a chisel pressed into service instead. 2 blade.jpg

    The missing TS was replace by a 5/16” BSW machine screw. There was some discussion about that – all the oldies of that vintage I’ve seen had square threads, but it would seem that pyramidal threads were also used. After studying the lever-cap closely, I agree with the plane’s current guardian (NeilS) that it shows no sign of tampering or alteration & a freshly-cut 5/16 thread fits nicely. Whitworth proposed his standard in 1841, so while it may not have been widely adopted at the time the plane was made, it certainly existed.

    The body of the plane is in pretty good condition, though well-encrusted with rust in places - Neil had started a clean before he became aware that he had a moderately rare specimen on his hands, but stopped before doing very much other than knocking the rough off (a necessary act, imo). The ‘infill’ which iforms the blade bed, is either ebony or very dark, oil soaked, rosewood. The latter was used more commonly, but after peering at it for a long time I agree with Neil that it looks more like ebony than rosewood. A gentle pass over some flat abrasive showed the sole is slightly convex at each end, but flat around the mouth.

    So the first job to tackle was a new blade. While the chisel was a rather clever idea, the tang had been cut down and a very hand-friendly knob applied, but as it was a bevel-edged job, the lever-cap only clamped down on about half its width, which would have worked ok in such a small plane, but is not ideal. The chisel blade had also run out of puff, the bolster was butting against the LC, preventing the blade from being exposed enough to cut. A rather naughty temporary fix had been to file off the bottom of the back of the LC to gain another mm or two of blade advancement, but that solution had been rather temporary : 3 LC mod.jpg

    Whoever dunnit used a coarse file & didn’t bother to smooth it off!

    Most originals had ‘snecked’ blades (possibly ALL originals, those which turn up with flat blades could easily be later replacements) so adding a sneck on the new blade was definitely desirable . I measured the mouth & first thought it was 1 1/8” (the only width in this style Norris made) but a scrap of that width I happened to have looked skinny, so I tried 1 ¼” and it fitted perfectly. Spiers did make other sizes as far as I can ascertain, so it’s highly likely that was the original size. The steel I chose is from a scrap of 3.5mm 1084 I happened to have & it slid perfectly under the LC, which tightened to a position close to parallel with the blade – also perfect! To form the ‘sneck’ I began by riveting a strip of metal to the top of the blade: 4 Bld length a.jpg

    If the surfaces are clean & the rivets clenched tightly, the join virtually disappears after it is all filed flush: 5 Bld length c.jpg.

    The top and sneck were then shaped to something resembling the old ones. I chamfered the sides to about the same degree but made the ‘cushion’ a bit longer than the pictures of original blades show. I find a longer sneck much more comfy against the palm of my hand: 5a blade.jpg

    This plane fits entirely within a normal hand and a sharp top on the blade would chafe uncomfortably after a few minutes of use: 7 hand hold b.jpg 6-hand hold a.jpg

    However, if a subsequent owner wants to file it to match the old blades more closely , that’s fine by me.

    With the blade hardened & cleaned up, it was time to turn my attention to the thumbscrew. I’d been mulling over a few approaches to making the knurl without a dedicated knurling tool and came up with the following idea. First, I rough-turned the head and defined the section to be knurled with a parting tool, then used files to round the section. I started a straight knurling tool square-on to the curve & made a good pattern, then moved the carrier over & angled the tool post to work the sides, making sure the wheels caught in the first set of grooves. I then loosened the tool a bit & worked it right & left a bit to enhance & even up the grooves. Finally a series of fine lines was cut with a jewellers saw (I’m making a pair here, back to back): 8 knurling.jpg

    Then all that was required was to clean up the sides of the knurl I'd made with the parting tools, run the required threads on the screw & separate the two thumb screws. The Turks’ cap was made by a combination of cranking the cross & lateral feeds manually, and sanding the slightly jagged profile smooth. I was moderately pleased with the final product: 9 New TS.jpg

    It's actually easier to hand-turn that bit, but my wood-lathe was set up for something else & I didn't want to change it.
    (continued)
    IW

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  3. #2
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    Default Part 2

    So, what’s the little thing like as a user? Quite good – it made quite nice shavings on a scrap of jacaranda:
    1 shavings.jpg

    And gave a good account of itself on a bit of she-oak: 2 shavings.jpg

    The blade still needs a bit of work to get the tip absolutely flat & polished - my thumb plane made similar shavings on the same piece but left a bit better surface 3 she-oak.jpg

    The sole is a bit pitted and not perfectly flat, though the most crucial part fore & aft of the mouth is flat ( dealing with those issues is not my remit). I wondered if it has already had some lapping in its long life – the mouth, although fairly fine, is far from super-fine, and given the quality of the workmanship in the dovetailing I suspect it started out a bit finer than it is now. It’s not huge, but compared with mine it isn’t tiny: 4 mouths.jpg

    That isn’t a major setback for a plane like this, just something I noted.

    The workmanship in the dovetailing of sides too sole is superb. I studied it very closely because I first thought there was an anomaly with the tails – what looked like a tail in front of the mouth lappeared to be the wrong way round to work! However, on closer inspection I realised it is the join between the two parts of the sole. This is a simple angled butt joint, no tongue & groove as on larger low-angle planes. There are a few very faint lines between the sides & sole in a couple of places and one font dovetail is moderately obvious due to wearing away of some metal (or was it rusted away?). But it’s an exemplar of how to dovetail up a body!

    6 portrait.jpg

    It has a few minor details that need to be addressed to bring it to its potential peak performance, but they are a little project for tits new custodian, whoever that may be.

    And here it is beside my thumb plane, which you can see is slightly longer because I extended to sole a bit front & back: 5 pair.jpg

    So thanks, Neil, for entrusting me with this little beauty – I have enjoyed making the new bits to look a bit more like original parts than what was on it before, and learnt a little bit more about old planes….
    :)
    Cheers,
    Ian
    IW

  4. #3
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    Default

    Beautiful work on a lovely rare plane Ian!
    I was going to ask how you attached the sneck but I went back and saw your picture of rivet holes. Nice .
    Rob

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post

    So thanks, Neil, for entrusting me with this little beauty – I have enjoyed making the new bits to look a bit more like original parts than what was on it before, and learnt a little bit more about old planes….

    Cheers,
    Ian
    Well, it is me who needs to be thanking you Ian for your generosity on this, not just your time and effort (+ materials), but most importantly your invaluable expertise.

    Also, many thanks for sharing this WIP for the benefit of those that may have similar projects or just for the others of us that get vicarious pleasure from seeing what we couldn't manage to do ourselves, which includes me!

    No doubt Spiers would be chuffed to see the careful attention that one of his little planes is receiving so many years later.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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    Thanks Rob & Neil - tbh, I hadn't realised it was such a rarity when I made the offer to make the missing parts. When I saw the prices asked for them by the major dealers, I wished I hadn't put my hand up so quickly!

    But my job was simply to make a couple of parts which can be replaced instantly, should genuine parts suddenly appear, so I certainly haven't done anything irretrievable. What more could/should be done is entirely in the hands of the next guardian,. Neil knocked off the really crusted rust & I've wiped it over with camelia oil (it's finally raining & humid up here & I don't want to send it home with any fresh blooms!). It looks quite good as-is, the real conundrum for me would be what to do about the slightly convex sole. A little more than half of the sole area is flat & it's evenly distributed fore & aft of the mouth and the plane works well enough so it is probably advisable to leave it as-is both for 'collector value' & to preserve what's left of the fine-ness of the mouth.

    It certainly has experienced a few "slings & arrows" in its long life but that's to be expected of a tool that seems to have been much-used in that time. Fortunately, Neil spotted the stamping on the lever-cap before getting too vigorous with a scouring pad. It's well-worn, but legible enough that once you spot the remaining letters & realise what it says, there's no doubt about it, so as long as Spiers & Norris were the only suppliers of thumb planes to Buck, there's little doubt it's a Spiers because of the profile & because Norris doesn't seem to have made them in widths other than 1 1/8". At least that's all I've seen in the few old catalogues I've seen & on the Norris planes website.

    I'm still intrigued by the construction. Norris examples are said to be in malleable iron, implying they have cast bodies. This plane could be cast, with the toe-piece applied, but I'm 99% certain it's dovetailed. The internal corners between side & sole and at the back curve are too sharp for a casting. There is a definite join of the sole at the mouth & a single dovetail at the front right corner is clearly evident, but man, it's superbly done, not even the teeniest gap on the inside of the D/Ts where I can see the insides. There's at least one small gap on every plane I've made (fortunately, completely covered by the infill), so even on my all-steel examples future restorers will be in no doubt about their construction. Gives me a goal to aim for, some day...


    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post

    The ‘infill’ which iforms the blade bed, is either ebony or very dark, oil soaked, rosewood. The latter was used more commonly, but after peering at it for a long time I agree with Neil that it looks more like ebony than rosewood.
    Rosewood was the wood that was mostly used on these planes, so I think that the ebony was a refit at some later stage.

    In my initial attempts to identify the maker of this plane I researched the H. MOORE stamp on it to see if that was a known plane maker's mark, but got nowhere with that so took that to be an owner's mark.

    My speculation is that H. Moore was one of the Moore brothers of Moore and Moore, the piano and organ builders, who had their workshop in Bishopsgate in London, which is about a mile away from the Buck tool merchants on Tottenham Court Rd. Ebony is stock in hand for that trade and I wonder if they might have replaced the infill with ebony at the time they were refitting it with the replacement chisel blade. Furthermore, the small chisel blade is very typical of the hand carving chisels used for decorative detail on piano and organ cabinets, which fits in with that thesis

    Anyway, all of this is mere speculation on my part!
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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    An excellent bit of research & speculation Neil! The number of stamps Mr. Moore put on the plane is far more consistent with what some owners did than what manufacturers did - the latter were usually content with putting their marks in one place. On a plane with a bronze lever cap, that was the softest metal & the easier part to stamp, no doubt, & that's where you find 'em on the majority of metal planes.

    Your suggestion of the blade-bed being a refit has merit. It's not inconceivable that it was originally infilled with ebony, Spiers certainly used the stuff occasionally, so it's highly likely there would have been small bits kicking about the shop that they might have used where they could. Spiers was a Scot, after all & would surely have abhorred waste! But your connection to a piano maker makes a very plausible story. The plane has had a LOT of use by the looks, and something may have happened that required the infill to be replaced. That would neatly explain why the lever-cap has been removed & replaced at some stage (I'm 99.9% certain of that), I can tell you from personal experience it is a very awkward task to replace a blade bed with the LC in place!

    Speculating on its past life would have to be a good part of the pleasure of owning a tool like this....

    Cheers,
    Ian
    IW

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    Very impressed with your work on this little plane when I visited yesterday. Mr Moore is so loose and free with his stamping that he has stamped 2 of mine too. But what was the initial?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mic-d View Post
    Very impressed with your work on this little plane when I visited yesterday. Mr Moore is so loose and free with his stamping that he has stamped 2 of mine too. But what was the initial?
    H. MOORE

    But on the base plate it is just H.M., twice!

    If there were two Moore brothers or relations working together in the same shop that might explain the excessive stamping all over the plane... a way to avoid that thing where all the tools ín the workshop gravitate to one worker's bench... and the culprit is usually the one who doesn't look after his tools...
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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    Yeah, my old dad used to work with a bloke who was notorious for "borrowing" tools & not returning them. Dad said he would read the "W" for "Wilkie" upside down so it was "M for mine".....

    I guess with a name like "Moore" you have to stamp it more.....
    IW

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    Well, I am a happy camper tonight. My success with Neil's thumbscrew knurling prompted me to get myself into gear & do something I've been "getting 'round to", for a very long time.

    Some years ago I made myself a chariot plane (well a couple, really, this is Vers 2.0): Finished.jpg

    At the time, I had just one diamond-pattern knurling tool so every thumbscrews I made got that. The knurling was crisp (it took a few attempts to get that right), & at first I was very pleased with my efforts, but after a bit I became increasingly irritated by them. They were perfectly functional, but looked a bit blah & as time went by, the blah factor increased.

    I later got some different knurling wheels & branched out a bit with my knurling patterns & thumbscrew shapes, in attempts to imitate the TS of old a bit more closely: Shavings.jpg

    Making Neil's TS was the most adventurous I've got & it worked so well I decided it was definitely time to give the older chariot plane a bit better hardware: New TSa.jpg

    That's better! (The observant types, as some of you are, will notice I had also changed out the screws holding the bridge for flush pins - I did that quite a whil ago)

    I never thought I'd fuss so much about such details - I claim to make planes to use, not look at! But I freely admit, the new TS are far more in keeping with the era when chariot planes & thumb planes were having their time in the sun: New&old TS.jpg


    Cheers,
    IW

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Yeah, my old dad used to work with a bloke who was notorious for "borrowing" tools & not returning them. Dad said he would read the "W" for "Wilkie" upside down so it was "M for mine".....

    I guess with a name like "Moore" you have to stamp it more.....

    .... : ~}
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    I freely admit, the new TS are far more in keeping with the era when chariot planes & thumb planes were having their time in the sun:

    New&old TS.jpg
    I agree with you Ian that those new thumbscrews are looking more at home there on your chariot plane.

    There seems to be two distinct ways to go with making infill planes; the uber-engineered approach, as exemplified by Karl Holtey, and the approach that you have taken that I would characterise as being crafted in the historical tradition of the great 19th century plane innovators and makers like Spiers. Both approaches work well in their own way.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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    Thanks Neil; and I'm hoping that once they oxidise a bit & get a bit shop-soiled & maybe an odd nick from bumping against something that shouldn't have been on the bench, they'll look even more at home.

    I've often added a few whimsical touches when making planes, like the scrolled front bun on the Chariot plane above - that has no precedent in the 19th/early 20th C planes. So far, I have never tried to make an exact reproduction of any Spiers or Norris, though I certainly have taken "inspiration" from various types they produced. But because I really didn't know how certain things were done by Mr. Spiers or Mr. Norris, and didn't have access to an original, I had to make some of it up as I went along, which often results in something a bit different from the old model I was using as my start-point (not to mention an occasional disaster!).

    It's interesting that you describe Holtey's work as "uber-engineered", I reckon that's a very good way to describe it. Although I admire Holtey's flawless workmanship, there is something rather sterile about his planes, I don't think I've ever seen one I'd like to go home with. It's quite the contrary with Konrad Sauer's planes - they look equally flawless (the file-work both Konrad & Karl do is soo neat!), but Sauer planes have a beauty of line & form that demands fondling. It has always seemed to me that Holtey is an engineer-turned-planemaker, who has never used any of his planes for a serious session of planing, and fine tolerances are far more important to him than function & comfort.

    Maybe it's because I'm from a biological background so the organic lines of Sauer planes appeal to me - I'll leave the Holteys to the engineers who lust over the micro-precision.....


    Cheers,
    IW

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post

    I've often added a few whimsical touches when making planes, like the scrolled front bun on the Chariot plane above - that has no precedent in the 19th/early 20th C planes. So far, I have never tried to make an exact reproduction of any Spiers or Norris, though I certainly have taken "inspiration" from various types they produced.
    That is what craftsmen and women do, they honour the tradition and skills of their craft while innovating and forging their own pathway. Even a traditionalist like Bill Carter break out at times as seen in some of his planes that repurpose brass sawblade backs, which are both whimsical yet functional...



    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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