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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clinton1 View Post
    Bushmiller, do you know what brass stock was used for the ferrules in that photo you posted?
    Clinton

    The material used in my pic was actually mild steel pipe (galvanised I think). It was simply polished up on a buffing wheel. The thickness of that was I think, 2.5mm. I can't check for the moment as I am away from home. However, this is much thicker than is really required, particularly in steel. I just used what came immediately to hand. In the past I have used brass, stainless steel and copper for ferrules and in those materials it would have been classified as tube and probably been about the 1.6mm Ian mentioned.

    Unless you plan to hit a chisel with a steel club hammer anything from 1.6mm upwards is going to be more than adequate. I would also consider aluminium too. For that material I would look to recycling. baby strollers, ironing boards etc.etc.. Those sort of products can be a source of mild steel tubing too.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #32
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    Ian, George Weston and the other non-ferrus metal supplier whose name I've forgotten only stock material up to a 1.63mm wall thickness. I can't find any supplier that has a thicker wall. All my really old chisels have a thicker wall at the top of the ferrule, and they seem to be a v shaped wall, hence my comment about peening the top to a thicker wall at the top. I think that that shape stops the ferrule from dislodging when struck. I'd like brass ferrules, but I'm cautious about the wall thickness, thicker and I could remove material to get the shape that the old chisels have. New handles and brass ferrules would be different to the originals, and I'll put the originals aside for my kids to drool over in the future. I'm conflicted. Maybe I'll use steel pipe, that has a wider range of wall thickness. Still waiting to hear what was used on the forum, group buy, chisels. Aren't I sweating over the small stuff, but that's what old tool fools do. 😁
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  4. #33
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    Bushmiller, thanks mate, greatly appreciated and that goes a long way to helping me clarifying the issue. I'll rethink the matter and remeasure the ferrules on my old chisels. Goodonya
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  5. #34
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    Colin62, be careful mate, it's a slippery slope and when you get started, often it's just a wild and unending ride. But, damn, man, the ride is worth it! In the end you'll be bearded with the beard full of sawdust and wood chips, gibbering about modulus of rupture and advocating strongly for one method of sharpening vs the others and all kinds of cool and groovy stuff that very few other people understand. I'm one of those people, and, damn, I highly recommend it! 😁
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clinton1 View Post
    Ian, George Weston and the other non-ferrus metal supplier whose name I've forgotten only stock material up to a 1.63mm wall thickness. I can't find any supplier that has a thicker wall. ...

    ..... Maybe I'll use steel pipe, that has a wider range of wall thickness..... ��
    Clinton, it does look that way on their website. I've got thicker-walled tube that I got from them in the past, but maybe they've since cut their inventory back.
    Steel tube is cheaper & comes in a range of sizes. There are plenty of suppliers who'll cut short lengths for you...

    Hoops on chisels can be a real pita. A hoop with tapered inner diameter might be more of a curse than a blessing. I have trouble getting hoops to stay put on the very hard woods I like to use, one or two always want to loosen in dry spells (like we are experiencing right now!). The most successful method I've found is to taper the handle so the hoop is forced on tighter & tighter as it's struck (explained in Dick's 'Titan' book), but even that fails sometimes. I think if you use a softer, more compressible wood, there's enough elasticity to take up the slack as it dries. That doesn't happen with Brigalow & Gidgee, but one lot I handles with some local Black Wattle has fared better..

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #36
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    Ian, I'm currently planning on using Spotted Gum is I can get it in the larger size I need for my big hands. Basically it's stair risers stock. There is enough availability that I can pick a 1/4 sawn piece. 300 X 50 is common stock. Do you have an opinion on other species that are reasonably available? And yeah, there is a wealth of differing opinions on the 'right way' to set ferrules so they don't bounce off on striking. I have my own opinion, but time will tell. I may end up with a disaster, or achieve success. Time will tell. A mate that makes knives is telling me to pin the ferrules, but I don't think that's 100% necessary. If I stuff it up, I can always pin them as a "make good" arrangement.
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  8. #37
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    Clinton, Spotted gum would be a very good choice for durability, I think. Titan used Tasmanian blue gum (E. globulus) which was perhaps driven by availability as much as any special properties, but they probably aren't all that far apart. (Edit: they also used Myrtle Beech for the 'lighter duty' chisels, & that's at least as tough as northern hemisphere Beech & Birch).

    I favour the Acacias and Casuarinas for their decorative properties as as well as extreme toughness, but as I mentioned, it can be difficult to get ferrules & hoops to stay on the harder & denser woods. Because the wood is so hard, it doesn't compress much when you drive the metal onto the wood, so just a little shrinkage in dry weather & you've got a loose hoop or ferrule. The hard wood also doesn't mushroom over the hoop readily, allowing the hoop to slip up if it gets loose. I've given up on hoops on my chisel handles other than those that cop a real hammering. My set of She-oak handled BE chisels that I use almost every day show no sign of wear after about 10 years since I re-handled them, so I don't think I'm going to have to worry about any of those before I leave them to the next owner...

    From my own experience (and also discussed by Dick in his Titan book), pins are as much of a problem as a cure. They either simply break as the hoop is driven on further during use, or split the wood. On not-too-thick hoops & ferules, a deep dimple made with a sharp centre-punch can lock them on, but with thick metal such as you are contemplating using, you can't get enough of a dimple to be of any use. Glueing them on with epoxy is also mostly a waste of time on hoops - the glue cracks or lets go the first time it's struck. OK for loose ferrules, though....

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #38
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    Hi Clinton,
    I have picked up thicker walled brass pipe on eBay au. Usually comes in 200 -300 mm sections.
    Regards,
    Ross

  10. #39
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    Clinton

    I measured a few bits of tube. The brass stock was close to 1mm thick and that has been ample for most purposes so I don't think looking for something thicker than 1.6mm will be really necessary.

    A little while back I picked up some discarded compression pipe fittings. These are in the form of nuts but internally are round and threaded threaded. It occured to me that these could be easily used as a ferrule and would not want to slide over or damage the timber and this was why I had kept them.

    P1050332 (Medium).JPGP1050333 (Medium).JPG

    As you can see, they come in a range of sizes, but availability depends on what was lying around on the floor or in the waste skip at work.

    P1050329 (Medium).JPGP1050330 (Medium).JPGP1050331 (Medium).JPG

    The handle could easily be shaped to bring the timber through the hole in the top just for aesthetics. The thread could be utilised in securing the "ferrule" via a slight interference fit, possibly in conjunction with epoxy glue. I have not put this to the test yet so all is theoretical.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #40
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    Thanks Ross and Paul, I'll keep my eye out for that thicker stuff if I decide to go down that route.
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  12. #41
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    Ian, I'm happy with Spotty gum because it'll be pretty indestructible, but that might also be a weakness as it'll resist mushrooming, which keeps ferrules tight.... Swings and roundabouts.
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clinton1 View Post
    Ian, I'm happy with Spotty gum because it'll be pretty indestructible, but that might also be a weakness as it'll resist mushrooming, which keeps ferrules tight.... Swings and roundabouts.
    Hmm, I don't think Spotted Gum will resist mushrooming to that extent, Clinton. It would be pretty similar to Tas. B. G., and that has mushroomed pretty thoroughly on some well-used (or abused?) old Titans I've come across.
    Cheers,
    IW

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