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  1. #1
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    Default Rehandling chisels - patterns/templates wanted

    Hey all,
    I've been off this forum for a few years, so hello old friends and welcome to new ones.

    I have some chisels that I want to rehandle.
    I'm looking for pics or templates that I can use.
    Can you help?

    I like Titan or EA Berg shapes.
    As you can see, I've a few lined up, and I want to shape them longer than usual as I've pretty big hands.
    I'm signed up for a woodturning course in late July, so I've lots of time.

    Some pics and dimensions would be appreciated.
    As you can see, there are a few to do.

    As always, thank you in advance...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Mostly you just freehand them, pick a shape and just copy it

  4. #3
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    Default

    As with China, find a shape you like and copy it. Remember to leave plenty of meat around the tang.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  5. #4
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    Default

    As simple as that hey?
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  6. #5
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    Default

    Yep, drill the tang hole whilst the blank is square, rough round, size for the ferrule(s), shape, sand and part off.

    If it's for a socket chisel, rough round, size the spigot, shape, sand and part off.

    You could always wander down south on a Sunday, if you want practice.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  7. #6
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    blue mountains
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    Default

    Like the others said just copy any of the handles you like the look of. I also dabble with making up my own shapes. Kind of explains why my chisels mostly all have different handles. As to berg handles I have copied those but as I could not get any birch root like they use it just did not look right. I also reuse the ferrules. Bit of sandpaper on the lathe and the most ugly old ones come up like new.
    Regards
    John

  8. #7
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    Central Coast, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    If you search for "chisel handle pattern", and choose image results, there are several useful results.
    http://nebula.wsimg.com/0d95e32c09af...&alloworigin=1
    https://s188.photobucket.com/user/Do...l_dwg.jpg.html

  9. #8
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    Clinton

    I often feel that chisel handles are a little on the small size and I only have average size hands probably. In making the handles larger remember there is such a thing as balance both in the aesthetical side and the practical side. A really large handle is going to look out of place on a short chisel or a narrow chisel or even a larger chisel that has been sharpened down. These are some larger handles made up for one of the Forum GB chisel sets. The smaller of the three is 25mm wide.

    P1030180 (2).JPG

    And next to a more normal sized set for comparison:

    P1030178.JPG

    I think that socket chisels lend themselves to larger handles more easily than the tanged variety, although these large chisels are a hybrid with both socket and tang. I have also noticed that some Titan chisels had what I thought was an interesting technique for the top ferrule . Instead of butting against a hard shoulder the ferrule slid up to a tapered handle. With a slight filing on the inside of the ferrule it never wants to bite into the timber under extreme provocation with a mallet.

    There are quite a few chisels in your pile. If you are as quick as me, it will keep you occupied for quite a while. Any idea of what timber you will be using?

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    ........ I have also noticed that some Titan chisels had what I thought was an interesting technique for the top ferrule . Instead of butting against a hard shoulder the ferrule slid up to a tapered handle. With a slight filing on the inside of the ferrule it never wants to bite into the timber under extreme provocation with a mallet.....
    Paul, according to Dick Lynch (in his Titan book), Titan most likely copied the tapered design for the top hoop from Sheffield makers, late in the day. For much of their production, they did what seems natural to most of us & just turned a spigot with a shoulder. Dick also suggests it's to stop splitting or burring of the shoulder wood, as you've said, & I suggest that perhaps even more importantly, it makes the hoop self-tightening.

    I made new handles for my LN mortising set, with nice, strong (thick) brass hoops. I spent much time & care getting the hoops really tight on the spigots. Mortice chisel set.jpg

    I felt very smug & pleased with myself when they were all freshly done. That lasted for a short while, until one by one, the rings came loose & I spent half my time with those chisels chasing loose hoops determined to lose themselves amongst the shavings! I got a very good lesson in why most hoops & ferrules on commercial chisels have those little punch indentations in their metal hoops...

    Keeping ferrules & hoops tight is a problem in any climate with big humidity swings, but these last few ultra-dry years we've experienced in S.E. Qld have been exceptionally tough in that respect. The stuffing of a plane I made many years ago has shrunk away from the sides a bit over the last year, and I've had ferrules falling off file handles etc, that had remained firm for 20 years or more prior to last year. Very annoying - sometimes a dollop of left-over Araldite fixes them, sometimes not.

    As to handle sizes, this is a most personal thing, and one of the main reasons for making your own, imo. I prefer smaller handles on my D/T chisels, for e.g., partly because I hold them more often by the blade than the wood - the wood is only there for something to wallop. We were taught to do it this way in school (a year or two back), because it helps you to place the edge accurately on the scribe-line or whatever. CL.jpg

    However, I do hold paring chisels by the wood, so they get longer handles than dovetailers:4 Parers.jpg

    Mortising chisels also get held by the handle when levering out waste, so they get handles that are somewhere between D/T & paring chisels in length, while my butt chisels get little egg-shaped handles, partly to keep them short so they can fit in confined spaces. Set rehandled.jpg

    I general, I find I like my handles a bit thinner than most, and I like simple curves with a strong 'thumb indent'.

    Shapes like the 'London pattern' look interesting, and I favoured that look for years: London pattern.jpg

    But over the last 20 years or so I've devolved to the shapes shown, which is a derivative of the pattern much used by US makers early last century (which LN copied for their lines). It's all personal preference and you have to find what you like best by a bit of experimentation - makes life interesting!

    Cheers,
    IW

  11. #10
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    Ian

    I had forgotten the history of those Titans despite having Dick's book. I only have a single chisel fashioned in this way and of course it is true to say that if there is no intention to wallop the chisel with a mallet, even the top ferrule is unnecessary. Last night, because of my abysmal organisation of pix, I couldn't find the chisel so here it is now.

    P1050021 (Medium).JPG

    A close up of the gradual taper and a significant extension of the handle beyond the ferrule to allow for deformation under duress. It is the only handle I have made this way so far, but I do have one more that I will make in this style:

    P1050022 (Medium).JPG

    And this is just to show that it is indeed on a Titan

    P1050023 (Medium).JPG

    It is one of three knockabout" chisels I have, hence it enjoys a useful life as a tool that earns it's keep, but could be subjected to degradation and other indecencies such as paint splashes!

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Paul, I would say from comparing that stamp with the pics in Dick's book that your chisel is a late model, but it could be mid-sixties on. He's (understandably) a bit vague on the order of stamps, especially as they used multiple stamps with essentially the same design, but with some subtle variations.

    It seems to have quite a bit of pitting - a poor neglected waif before it came into your hands? I recently completed a small 'set' of heavy, plain, tanged chisels (i.e. 101s) and it's surprising how varied they can be. A couple are quite early ones by their stamps, and one is very clean, with hardly a mark on it (although about 1/4 worn down), whereas some much later examples were quite rusted - victims of neglect, I suppose. Nearly all had severely-rounded backs at the cutting edge, due either to being lapped on rounded stones, or more likely sandpaper...

    Cheers,
    IW

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    It seems to have quite a bit of pitting - a poor neglected waif before it came into your hands?

    " an ill favoured thing sir, but mine own. 'tis a poor humour of mine to take that that no man else will." Touchstone. (But it had been used before.)



    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    ".... 'tis a poor humour of mine to take that that no man else will." ....
    Goodo - I've got quite a bit of stuff here that would amply fit that description - I'll dump it on the back of your ute next time you call by.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  15. #14
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    Thanks Ian. Sounds wonderful. You have probably realised I may be distantly related to Steptoe & Son.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Clinton

    I often feel that chisel handles are a little on the small size and I only have average size hands probably. In making the handles larger remember there is such a thing as balance both in the aesthetical side and the practical side. A really large handle is going to look out of place on a short chisel or a narrow chisel or even a larger chisel that has been sharpened down. These are some larger handles made up for one of the Forum GB chisel sets. The smaller of the three is 25mm wide.

    P1030180 (2).JPG

    And next to a more normal sized set for comparison:

    P1030178.JPG

    Here's the rehandle on my 50mm ward...

    IMG20190530072246.jpg

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