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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    33

    Default Repairing cracks in saw handles..etc

    Have been giving my user tools the once over and noticed cracks in several of my handles.. on the S&J tenon saw, the cracks are repeated on the opposite side.
    I would usually wipe some linseed oil into timber like this, but may not work so well with the varnish I want to apply later.
    On the Disston D8 I am bringing back to life, similar small cracks are beginning to appear.
    The last handle is off a H.H.Swann tenon.. appears to be English beech..the slot for the blade is off centre as well as on a tilt.. I want to remake this handle, but finding this timber in Brisbane seems a problem.
    Kenny.
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,785

    Default

    The only one I would touch is the first one as the cracks appear to go right through the handle.
    I'd tape up the sides and underneath and flood those cracks with a two pack epoxy, may need several flood attempts tp get them to fill up.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,114

    Default

    Agree with Bob - the only one I would attempt glueing is the S&J handle. The wood looks clean & dry, with no oil evident, so you have a reasonable chance that glue will actually adhere inside the cracks. I'd also recommend epoxy. Run a good thick bead along one crack at a time, then hit it with a hair-dryer. That turns the epoxy to a water-like consistency & it will penetrate well into the crack. Repeat on the other cracks, then try to clamp them closed as much as you cn without applying unreasonable force, & leave to cure. Once cured, scrape/sand to bare wood again to get rido f the epoxy on the surface.

    If it were my handle, I'd give it a good soaking in Danish oil. Most brands aren't much thicker than water, & will soak in much more than straight linseed, & many of the small cracks will take up as the oil soaks in. D.O also cures pretty quickly, and is compatible with solvent-based finishes. Myself, I would just give then 2-3 lots of Danish a few days apart, let dry for a week, then scrub with OOOO steel wool & wax - leaves a very nice, tactile finish on a saw handle.

    With the weather we've had here in Brissy the last coupe of months, everything is cracking up in my shed - I've seen shrinkage on things this last month I've never noticed in the last 20 years or more!

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,128

    Default

    Kenny

    And those handles that are unsuitable for "reconditioning" you could make new handles from whatever hardwood you have to hand and use the old hardware. Easy.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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