Thread: Replacement Blade For Stanley No 6

Originally Posted by Pat

Admins, when are we going to get a spell checker?

:confused: :confused:

Chequer??

Ah but we've been down this road before!

Cheers,

P

I know, but I have to ask every now and then, about the spell checker, that is.

Pat,

You may want to be mindful of the maximum blade thickness you can use. Thicker blades may require some doctoring the mouth or frog or both.

If you are thinking of buying another Stanley blade then why not regrind it , sharpen it test it again? If you are not happy then you can go for a different brand & thickness.

Regards,
Theva

Pat

If you plan to work with Australian hardwoods, then forget the Stanley and get a plane with a high cutting angle (HNT Gordon, LV bevel up, etc). Or learn to use scrapers.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek, I am already going down the scraping road, having purchased the Veritas Cabinet Scraper. I use my no 6 to true rough sawn/hand split timber after attacking with my electric monster(plane).

One addition to the mix:
Clifton (via Mik) Au 99.43
Clifton Chipbreaker(Cap Iron) Au 53.34

Thanks for your responses.

Pat - I've got a couple of LV blades, and use them regularly. They are, in my opinion, about the best bang for buck at the present time. They are thick, but not absurdly so, and it's unlikely you'll have any issues with the lever cap fitting. However, the lateral adjuster washer was too big on both of the planes I fitted them to. LV advise filing the washer to fit, but I thought that was too drastic, so touched up the slot a bit with the angle-grinder (and a very light touch!). If you're not confident taking an angle grinder to your new blade, the only alternative is a diamond file, and a looong session - both my blades are hardened all the way back....
Derek is absolutely right, of course, that a high-angle blade will do a better job on hard woods, but a sharp blade makes a world of difference, even at the bed angle of the garden variety bench planes, and hard A2 will stay sharp quite a bit longer than the steel used in your manufacturer-supplied blade - you'll find a quantum leap in performance from both the thicker and tougher blades. If you do go for a high-angle, you'll appreciate a tough blade even more, as the cutting edge comes in for more stress when the blade goes more vertical.
Cheers,
IW