Thread: Replacement Plane Irons

I had the same problem with a type 11 no.4.
The iron was too pitted to cut well. Instead of the usual aftermarket blades I had a try with a juuma planes replacement iron.

With my grat joy, the steel turned to be excellent, and I had no modification to give to the plane body/frog.
I'll post some pictures...

Dane have a look at Jim Davey's site and the IBC blades


Cheers
Michael

Eldanos - I've been very happy with Lee Valley and Hock replacement blades. Thicker than originals, but not so thick that you are likely to have problems with the depth adjustor cam not engaging prpoperly with the slot in the back-iron.
Seems like the choice of good replacement blades gets wider & wider......

Cheers,

Also consider Lie Nielsen replacement blades - they are in Adelaide and do a great web-based mail-order service.

How about joining TS' group buy, https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/second-stanley-plane-blade-order-104700/?

Probably the best blade for the money.

what about academy blades in qld $100 plus postage,i have his contact deails drop us a line if interested
greg

Lie-Nielsen - A2 steel;
Lee Valley - O1 or A2 steel - 2.55mm thick;
Ron Hock;
TS irons from this forum - M2 steel - 3.0mm thick;
Clifton - O1 steel (hand forged) - 3.3mm thick;
Japaneese laminated steel.
Stanley - O1 steel/cheese alloy - 2.05 mm thick.

I believe the Jap laminated blades are standard thickness (~2mm thick).

Good luck.

Cheers, Vann.

Hi,
Paul ceased to make the Academy M2 Irons about 2 years ago, most sizes are sold out except a few odd ones that I still have.
Take care and stay sharp,
Jim

Originally Posted by JimDavey

Hi,
Paul ceased to make the Academy M2 Irons about 2 years ago, most sizes are sold out except a few odd ones that I still have.
Take care and stay sharp,
Jim

Haha I thought so as I was looking on your website a few days ago Jim, but I gt my hopes up again. Sooo...... I'm sure one of the odd ones you still have MUST be a stanley #4 size Will I order off your website??
No, really, got one lying around?

I'll have a look and send a PM

Take care and Stay Sharp,
Jim

Hi

We have the Hock High Carbon & A2 available, A2 = $59.50, H/C = $52.50, matching chipbreaker $27.50 plus $12.00 shipping.

FYI

Regards

Grahame

In Vann's list of steels above, which are the better types that you should look for? I will be looking for some blades soon

It's not so much 'better' but what you prefer.

The O1 is the older type of steel and is softer.....but easier to sharpen and should hold an edge longer.

The A2 is harder......and that might mean more brittle, so it might not hold an edge as long.

The M2 is made from Unicorn horn and is the hardest substance in the Universe.....Heaven help you if you ever want to change a bevel angle on it.

Cheers
Sean (apprentice sharpener)

All 'facts' from memory......if someone wants to chime in and correct me, don't hesitate.

Originally Posted by JillB

In Vann's list of steels above, which are the better types that you should look for? I will be looking for some blades soon

Steels are complex due to differing alloys and treatments - following is an easy guide (the way I see it):

Stanley (I don't think it is O1) - pre-WW11 are good, post WW11 not as good, current not as good.
O1 - Good edge - lasts better than Stanley - easy to work (grind and refresh the edge)
A2 - Good edge - lasts longer than O1 - relatively easy to work
M2 - Good edge - lasts even longer but a lot more difficult to work due to its toughness

Hardness is measured on the Rockwell scale:
less than 58 is probably too soft,
58-60 is Ok
60-62 (most A2 hardened in this range) even better
62-64 (M2 and Japanese chisels)
Toughness is different to Hardness
Double Tempering is better than Single
Cryo Treating is better than non-cryo
Some of the older Record Irons were a lot tougher than Stanley and held their edge longer, but more difficult to work.

It comes down to personal preference (ask 5 woodworkers and get 6 different answers) - I like the A2 Cryo as it has a good lasting edge but not too difficult to work.

Hope this helps.

Take care and Saty Sharp,
Jim