Thread: Saw restoring: buffing steel???

I have used a green "scotchbrite" pad on a ROS with good results on my s/h jointer and the bed of my MC900, also obtained s/h.

Used white diamond polishing stick with it.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

I have used a green "scotchbrite" pad on a ROS with good results

Ha.. that's a great idea, did they just stick to the velcro pad or did you have to convince them to stay put some other way?

I just go as high as I need to with the paper on the ROS and then give them a very light polish with the loose cloth wheel.

I know that ripple effect you mean Tom.. I get that a lot with those 3M wheels Derek ordered for us (they still have their place though) I think it just comes from going to the buffing wheel too early in the game.. there's not much those wheels can do for a saw but add an extra shine to it.

I think the last user I did for myself I went to about p800 with the ROS.. that was plenty to get a reflection. no harm in going higher if you can get the paper


Scotchbrite pads on the sander does sound good though

As long as you start the sander on the surface you want to polish, yes they stay on reasonably well. They don't last a long time, but I usually buy a pack of 10 or so in the $2 shop, they're not all green either

Scotchbrite pad...?? hmmm... might grab myself one of those tomorrow... would also like to know how you attach it to the ROS.

And yeah the 3M wheel Derek got us does the same thing.

I think my problem is using the ROS with only a lower grit. I'll give them a go tomorrow going up through the grits...

Thanks for the advice.
Cheers
Tom

ps. Luban, I have 8", 12" and 14" steel backed Disston backsaws... if you ever come across a 10" one and want to get rid of it, PM me as I could still be looking for one to buy. (you had one on your site but it had a small fracture near the screws so i let it go.)

It just sticks to the hook pad of the ROS.

sweet. i'm giving that a shot!

Hi Tom,

Back to the original post.

By buffing/polishing the surface of the steel, you're changing the stresses in the saw that are intentionally induced during manufacture, which then changes (for the worse,) the properties of the saw.

It's far better to just scrub the surface with a green pot scrubber and a bit of WD40, leaving the original steel behind as much as possible.

Cheers,

eddie

You need to be careful you do not change the tension in the saw with aggressive cleaning (aggressive includes citric acid and electrolysis). Sanding with a ROS may have this effect, or may not.

Before starting on the ROS swing the saw and listen for the "song". If there is no "song" the saw may already have lost its factory tension. You may feel this in poor cutting performance, the saw flops in the cut for instance. After the ROS again check the "song".

Another check is to fold the saw toe back into the handle, and then see what it looks like after it springs back - is it still straight? Don't try this with post WW2 saws or any old saw that was cheap when new, ie 2nd brands.

You should be able to get sufficient shine to see the timber reflection with W&D sandpaper.

Cheers
Peter