Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
    Posts
    1,211

    Default Restoring a stubby Disston D17

    This saw is now on its third generation, having been passed down from my grandfather to father and now to me. At some point of my dad's custodianship it developed a crack which necessitated its nose being trimmed off.

    I have used it a bit, and gave the teeth a quick touch up several months ago. It is not however a great cutter at this stage, so could do with some care.

    My big question though is whether to joint and re-tooth the saw, or keep the original tooth profile. It is worth noting that with its reduced stature, I doubt it's worth considering it's value as a collector. It is more important me me that it can be effectively used and hopefully passed down to one of my kids in due course.

    Paul had a thread a while ago about his restoration of a similar saw at A Tale of Two Dissys.


    Any thoughts would be appreciated.

    Kind regards,
    Lance






  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,095

    Default

    Lance

    My thoughts are that you will need to joint that saw. Use two sizes of files to suit the crosscut and rip teeth. Draw a line with a felt tip pen along the lowest gullets and lower them to that line with a suitable size warding file or similar initially and then a suitable size round file (probably a needle file) to remove the sharp corners.

    My memory is that the saw cut very well and is a good saw for cutting rapidly.

    I don't think I would trouble to reintroduce the conventional teeth for the first six inches: Much too much trouble. If you desperately wanted a full size one I do have another in the restoration pile, but that would be more expensive than the one from your grandfather!

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,093

    Default

    Lance, if it were mine, I would be re-toothing it for sure. There is little point in retaining the current profile unless you have an orchard that needs a lot of heavy pruning, and the loss of so much of the blade would make it pretty wimpy in that role. What you've got is the makings of a panel saw. These were typically 20-24 inches, & your amputated saw looks to be in that range. There is plenty of precedent for doing this - a lot of 'panel' saws you come across are cut-down hand saws, the number of handle bolts is the giveaway, as it will be on yours, but only we saw tragics will ever know.

    Cutting in a set of new teeth on a saw that size is tedious & will probably eat up a couple of files, so I'd suggest you cut off the old teeth & take it to a saw-sharpening place & have them cut in a set of 8 tpi fangs for you. Starting out with a good set of teeth makes it much easier to keep them that way.

    Panel saws can be very handy things to have, I keep a rip & a crosscut, not only for 'away' jobs, they often come in handy when full-sized saws are a bit big & clumsy for the job, but I need something without the limitation of a spine...

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
    Posts
    1,211

    Default

    Thanks for the responses chaps.

    Paul. While I’m keeping an eye out for a bargain, I would certainly not choose another of these. My goal with acquiring hand saws at this stage is for a single crosscut and rip saw. Collecting may come down the track, but need to get the basics sorted out first

    Ian, thanks for your ideas. I thought “what are the odds of a business that cuts saw teeth being in Tassie”. After a brief search, I found one within 15 minutes of home! Who would have thought. I’ll give them a call on Monday. I know the cost of saw files, so if they can do it for less than a couple of files, I’ll get them to do the donkey work for me, and I’ll take care of the fun part of sharpening.

    I think I’ll do this as a rip saw, as that has been my main need to date.

    In the mean time, I’ll have a crack at cleaning up the saw plate and handle if I get a moment during the weekend.

    Other than wet and dry, is there a preferred way to get the saw plate cleaned up? There’s no rust, just a very heavy patina.

    Kind regards,
    Lance

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,095

    Default

    Lance

    I was only teasing with the suggestion of another D17 .

    I would agree with Ian on using it for a pruning saw if I had not had the opportunity to try it out for myself. In fact I think I made a comment in the other thread that I was surprised at how well it cut. I had assumed it was a gimmick: It was not, although I felt it was better at crosscutting than ripping. I would have no hesitation in suggesting it be kept as is. At this point I have to state that it is not often I disagree with Ian's position on tools, but I have a slight advantage with this particular saw having had the opportunity to try it out.

    There is another aspect in converting it to a panel saw with fine teeth such as 10ppi: Panel saws were made of a thinner gauge of steel. Because they were shorter, they could be thinner without sacrificing stiffness. I think your saw will be .039" whereas a 20" panel saw would be in the range of .032" - .035" at the toothline. I would be more inclined to keep it as is, which is basically an 8ppi crosscut. It probably leaves a finish that is coarser then a pure 8ppi saw. Having said that, I have 26" saws with 12ppi and they are superb, Clearly almost anything goes.

    Just out of interest, Atkins made similar saws to the D17, although not quite the same. Interesting to note that it too started of with the conventional teeth at the toe. This is from their 1919 catalogue:



    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

Similar Threads

  1. Advice on identifying and restoring Disston saw
    By Stratman in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 131
    Last Post: 23rd April 2019, 09:47 PM
  2. Disston D-100 saw worth restoring?
    By Skew ChiDAMN!! in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 11th September 2014, 07:22 PM
  3. Another use for the Stubby...
    By TTIT in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 30th November 2012, 04:01 AM
  4. New Stubby
    By GC in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 6th November 2008, 11:26 PM
  5. Got My New Stubby
    By Little Festo in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 24th December 2006, 10:16 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •