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  1. #16
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Jim - I would have thought by your stage of life that you'd have given up on New Year resolutions - they are nowt but a temptation to break 'em.....

    Cheers,
    Why else do we make them Ian?
    Cheers,
    Jim

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbur View Post
    Why else do we make them Ian?
    Cheers,
    Jim
    Hmm, good point - but just be careful making "good" resolutions in earshot of 'significant others' - they have a habit of reminding you when you think they would have long forgottten.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    .... I've already decided I need a router (which I'm determined to make, not buy...
    Well Ian, let me nudge you down the slop - not that you need much of a push

    I think that the most important feature of a router plane is the depth stop. This allows you to control the depth of cut, and replicate cuts.

    The other item I can recommend is to build the plane around the Lee Valley irons as there are a wide selection now, and this will immediately create a wide range over which the router plane may be used.

    Here's the one I built, complete with depth stop ...



    The iron is held against angle aluminium by a screw ...





    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #19
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    Mar 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Well Ian, let me nudge you down the slop - not that you need much of a push
    Derek - thankyou! You are dead right, it doen't take much of a shove to get me going on a new tool - even a barely required one, but I think I can justify this, at least to myself...

    Your post is perfectly timed, as I remembered your making the little woody, & was about to ask you about it, so you have pre-empted my request. I am plotting to make mine with a metal sole & blade support, not because I think the wooden one is inferior, but more for the challenge. The big decision is whether to use brass or steel for the sole & blade column. If I use brass, I have more of a problem attaching the blade holder - it would require a combination of mechanical fastening & silver-soldering to make it robust enough for the task, I would think. Steel is p'raps a bit less attractive, is rust-prone, and a little tougher to work, but a few dabs with the welder (& a lot of grinding, filing & cleaning-up!) would solve the column-fixing problem.

    I was thinking of making a screw depth adjustment, but it is probably more trouble than it's worth, and a simple collar like you have used is probably the smarter way to go.

    Hmmmm, now where did I put that chunk of 3/16 brass, and is it big enough....?
    IW

  6. #20
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Oct 2010
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    Good timing for me too Derek. I have a bladeless Stanley #71 that I inherited recently - am I correct in thinking that the LV blades are suitable for it?

    Cheers
    Brett
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  7. #21
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    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
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    http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/st...misc/71man.pdf

    "The depth post shown can be used to control the size of the chip or cut and to stop splitting ahead of the cutter."

    Any comments?

    also: "Cutters are graduated on the shank to make depth adjustments easily."

    Thinks ... "They are???????" ...

    I have a Record 071 ... now that I look at it, it's brazed where the depth adjustment meets the front bridge which I'm pleased about 'cos I'd forgotten ...

    and yup ... there they are ... never saw that before

    What about the LV and other replacements? the same?

    Thanks,
    Paul

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