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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    The Shire
    Posts
    325

    Default Rusted stuck arggghh!

    I was lucky enough to obtain a Stanley 55 recently for next to nix recently (I had to carry it from the car so it wasn't completely free). All tops, hardly a spot of rust.

    Similarly, I was lucky enough to obtain a No45 for a similar price from an old friend about a year ago. It was not quite as flash as my more recent acquisition and didn't have nearly as many bits with it. Be that as it may it was pretty good and who am I to complain with the price I paid (or didn't). I shot home that arvo and dissappeared into the garage to see if I could make it tick. I was able to get it apart and clean it up quite nicely thankyou using electrolysis mostly to remove the rust (along with a little bit of elbow grease).

    As I removed more and more crud (oh, the patina, the patina!) the thing started showing floral designs and a patent date (which I can't recall at present) so it had a bit of age to it. I was doing very well until I tried to remove the last rod from the main body. It was stuck, and stuck fast. I'm guessing it's rusted in as I'm sure its previous owner wasn't one to araldite things like that together (has anyone found a combination plane with its rods glue in?).

    This rod had me buffaloed. I tried pulling and pushing, twisting and tapping, all the time mindful of the less than happy relationship cast iron has with more extreme forms of these activities. I though the electrolysis might help but it didn't. I then tried soaking the part in WD40 but that did nothing but make it oily.

    After some time and not a little bit of exasperation I put the thing into the rainy day cupboard (as if a rusty thing needs a rainy day!) and it has lain there ever since. That is until I got the 55 the other day and I pulled out the ol' 45 (sounds like a pistol) to compare it with its higher numbered cousin. This has rekindled my interest in restoring this old plane.

    So, my question to my fellow forum fiddlers is how the bloody hell do I get this rod out?!?!?!

    Cheerio,
    Virg.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    3,191

    Default

    I'm the wrong person to preach patience but that is what you need. I've been surprised sometimes by areas that wd40 hasn't reached (talking nuts and bolts here).
    Every time you have a spare minute give it another squirt keeping it up for a week or so. A bit of warmth from a hair dryer might help the flow.
    As you said cast iron is 'delicate' so gently does it.
    Cheers,
    Jim

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,836

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jimbur View Post
    A bit of warmth from a hair dryer might help the flow.
    As jimbur says, a bit of warmth should help. If it wasn't for the wooden handle I'd suggest the oven on a very gentle heat (< 100C), but maybe the hairdryer is a better option. Then, while the whole thing is warm/hot, cool the rod in iced water to shrink it and thereby break the rust bond.

    That's my tuppence worth anyway...

    And again, as jimbur says
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbur View Post
    ...cast iron is 'delicate' so gently does it.
    Cheers, Vann.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    Assume it's rusted in and the electrolysis didn't reach it. So maybe try one of the liquid alternatives, like vinegar, citric or phosphoric acid ... dripped in.

    OTOH the oil from the WD40 may well prevent those from working
    Cheers, Ern

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    79
    Posts
    647

    Default

    Bradley,

    citric hot and strong will usually separate rust linked bits. Put it in for 30 minutes and try and release. A bit of mechanical help breaks the last grip of the rust, ie some locking pliers with cloth to protect the metal rods will usually break the seal with only a little pressure. You may need a second or third go in the citric - keep it hot. Of course a hammer and a piece of wood may help as well!

    Cheers
    Peter

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