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Thread: A few old saws

  1. #46
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    Thanks for the advice Paul. Yep it goes nicely with the GTG saw and now I have a nice set of 4 S & J's.
    I have a saw doctor close by so I'll have a chat to him about re-toothing for me if its that much hassle. I'll have another go at the saw plate if you think that will improve it. Should I keep going with 320 grit? The handle needs another coat too.
    Pete.

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  3. #47
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    The hammering? Both sides or only the convex or concave side?

  4. #48
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    Your nd pic does not seem to be loading my end. Have refeeshed and fone in and out a few times but no go

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  5. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete View Post
    Thanks Paul. I have them hanging in the workshop as display. I will bring them totally back to life eventually, but that might be a ways off yet.

    I was however lucky enough to be able to purchase a few nice 'Wilkut' saws this week. Very very nice indeed. Thanks Ian.
    drool

    and I promise not to tell any mods!

    re retoothing - Hiroller lives on this side of the harbour
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  6. #50
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    Pete. Before you consider hammering out the slight curve in the saw plate, its possible that the use of the guillotine has caused most of the distortion your seeing. I would suggest the following. Apply some marking dye and joint the bottom edge with a flat file. If you can still see some of the distortion, check again after you have filed the new saw teeth (no set applied).

    Good luck.

    Stewie;

  7. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
    Your nd pic does not seem to be loading my end. Have refeeshed and fone in and out a few times but no go

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art
    Try this one.

  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete View Post
    Try this one.
    [emoji106]

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  9. #53
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    re retoothing - Hiroller lives on this side of the harbour[/QUOTE]

    I did think of Hiroller. I'm sure he will appear.

  10. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete View Post
    Thanks for the advice Paul. Yep it goes nicely with the GTG saw and now I have a nice set of 4 S & J's.
    I have a saw doctor close by so I'll have a chat to him about re-toothing for me if its that much hassle. I'll have another go at the saw plate if you think that will improve it. Should I keep going with 320 grit? The handle needs another coat too.
    Pete.
    Pete

    I think there is quite a bit more mileage in the plate clean up judging from the pix, but it is always difficult to judge without seeing it in the flesh.

    I would test on the back side of the saw with 240 grit just in one spot (say at the heel) and judge the effect. When rubbing use a wooden block and follow the original grinding marks, which on your saw are easily visible. Note that these are parallel to the tooth line.

    Once you have done as much as you can with 240g, you can start working your way up through the finer grits. Probably up to 800g, but if you feel like you are on a roll, go through to 2000g (I have only been able to purchase 1500g and 2000g through the auto parts stores). The bulk of the work is done with the coarse grit.

    I particularly like the treatment of the S & Js around the medallion.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #55
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    Hi Stewie. The bow was in the plate before It was cut.
    Pete.

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete View Post
    The hammering? Both sides or only the convex or concave side?
    Primarily the convex side, but you may need to go back and forth, especially if you overdo it. really hammering needs to be kept to a minimum as the majority of us don't have a true understanding of what is going on.

    The way I think of it is that by hitting the steel you are expanding it's size: Microscopically of course, but in expanding one side of the plate it has to bow. In your case the bow brings it back to straight. Visualise hitting a soft material to get an idea of what happens.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #57
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    [QUOTE=Bushmiller;1915509]Pete

    "I think there is quite a bit more mileage in the plate clean up judging from the pix......"

    I'll have another go tomorrow arvo and get back to you.

    "I particularly like the treatment of the S & Js around the medallion."

    Me 2

    Pete.

  14. #58
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    Thanks Paul.
    I'll beat it to death tomorrow before the additional cleaning up. [emoji1]

  15. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    Pete. Before you consider hammering out the slight curve in the saw plate, its possible that the use of the guillotine has caused most of the distortion your seeing. I would suggest the following. Apply some marking dye and joint the bottom edge with a flat file. If you can still see some of the distortion, check again after you have filed the new saw teeth (no set applied).

    Good luck.

    Stewie;
    I see what you are saying now, I had to think about it though. I'll give that a go before I do any hammering.

    Thanks.

    Pete.

  16. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete View Post
    Thanks Paul.
    I'll beat it to death tomorrow before the additional cleaning up. [emoji1]
    I got a block splitter if you need it

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

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