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Thread: A few old saws
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15th December 2015, 08:57 PM #46
Thanks for the advice Paul. Yep it goes nicely with the GTG saw and now I have a nice set of 4 S & J's.
I have a saw doctor close by so I'll have a chat to him about re-toothing for me if its that much hassle. I'll have another go at the saw plate if you think that will improve it. Should I keep going with 320 grit? The handle needs another coat too.
Pete.
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15th December 2015, 09:00 PM #47
The hammering? Both sides or only the convex or concave side?
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15th December 2015, 09:03 PM #48
Your nd pic does not seem to be loading my end. Have refeeshed and fone in and out a few times but no go
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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15th December 2015, 09:15 PM #49
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15th December 2015, 09:21 PM #50Deceased
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Pete. Before you consider hammering out the slight curve in the saw plate, its possible that the use of the guillotine has caused most of the distortion your seeing. I would suggest the following. Apply some marking dye and joint the bottom edge with a flat file. If you can still see some of the distortion, check again after you have filed the new saw teeth (no set applied).
Good luck.
Stewie;
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15th December 2015, 09:22 PM #51
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15th December 2015, 09:23 PM #52
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15th December 2015, 09:24 PM #53
re retoothing - Hiroller lives on this side of the harbour[/QUOTE]
I did think of Hiroller. I'm sure he will appear.
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15th December 2015, 09:24 PM #54
Pete
I think there is quite a bit more mileage in the plate clean up judging from the pix, but it is always difficult to judge without seeing it in the flesh.
I would test on the back side of the saw with 240 grit just in one spot (say at the heel) and judge the effect. When rubbing use a wooden block and follow the original grinding marks, which on your saw are easily visible. Note that these are parallel to the tooth line.
Once you have done as much as you can with 240g, you can start working your way up through the finer grits. Probably up to 800g, but if you feel like you are on a roll, go through to 2000g (I have only been able to purchase 1500g and 2000g through the auto parts stores). The bulk of the work is done with the coarse grit.
I particularly like the treatment of the S & Js around the medallion.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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15th December 2015, 09:27 PM #55
Hi Stewie. The bow was in the plate before It was cut.
Pete.
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15th December 2015, 09:30 PM #56
Primarily the convex side, but you may need to go back and forth, especially if you overdo it. really hammering needs to be kept to a minimum as the majority of us don't have a true understanding of what is going on.
The way I think of it is that by hitting the steel you are expanding it's size: Microscopically of course, but in expanding one side of the plate it has to bow. In your case the bow brings it back to straight. Visualise hitting a soft material to get an idea of what happens.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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15th December 2015, 09:32 PM #57
[QUOTE=Bushmiller;1915509]Pete
"I think there is quite a bit more mileage in the plate clean up judging from the pix......"
I'll have another go tomorrow arvo and get back to you.
"I particularly like the treatment of the S & Js around the medallion."
Me 2
Pete.
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15th December 2015, 09:35 PM #58
Thanks Paul.
I'll beat it to death tomorrow before the additional cleaning up. [emoji1]
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15th December 2015, 09:38 PM #59
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15th December 2015, 09:39 PM #60
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