Thread: Four new saws (hmm 60+ yo maybe)

Well, when it arrives I will have no excuse not to sharpen a few saws, and report on what I think of Optivisor. I suspect I will need at least one additional lens plate for different purposes. However I am working on my rip saw battery shortly. Currently, my user set is:

All 28"
Disston #12
3.5 ppi
Disston D8 Thumbhole pre-1917
4.5 ppi
6 ppi
7 ppi

I am not that tall, so am re-purposing Spear and Jackson:
26" 7 ppi
26" cut down to 22" or 20" (saw plate is sharpened a fair way down) 8 ppi
26" > 18" (kinked blade) Long Neck 8 ppi

and a Bunnings floor scraper blade
14" 10 ppi

There are a few gaps in the above of course, but I think I should get by ok, and there are other saws to be adapted if required.

I am probably ok for rip backsaws - 8", 9", 10", 11", 12", 14", 18". I am going to make a 16" at some stage, although I notice that Stewie in his outline of backsaw dimensions left out the 16" - maybe I don't actually need one.

There will be a few new handles on this lot as well. Probably none of these actually need the magnifier!

Cheers
Peter

I find a traditional "magnifier light" works well.. mine is currently in the electronics workshop, I need to get another.

Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

I find a traditional magnifier light works well.. mine is currently in the electronics workshop, I need to get another. Ray

I used these at work, Ray, but when I tried one in the workshop I didn't like it at all. The fixed lens has to be moved constantly on some tasks. When you got me into toothing fine saws, I just had to have help, and by good fortune, the headband I got from McJing turned out to be ok. Perhaps by then I was getting desperate, so I persevered with it until I got used to it! We seem to vary a lot in what we find comfy, I've tried a few, now, & some feel really awkward on me, others fine...

Hiroller - When I first had to wear specs I was supper-conscious of the damn things, & the least bit of grot on them would annoy the heck out of me. After 25 years, I have gotten so used to them, it often takes some time before I realise my glasses are dirty. There are times when I think "Jeez, my sight is really getting bad - I can barely see fine detail any more". Then I take off my glasses & realize they are so grotty, it's a wonder I could see at all! Think I must be working from memory, half the time.......

Cheers

Originally Posted by IanW

Hiroller - When I first had to wear specs I was supper-conscious of the damn things, & the least bit of grot on them would annoy the heck out of me. After 25 years, I have gotten so used to them, it often takes some time before I realise my glasses are dirty. There are times when I think "Jeez, my sight is really getting bad - I can barely see fine detail any more". Then I take off my glasses & realize they are so grotty, it's a wonder I could see at all! Think I must be working from memory, half the time.......

Cheers

Ditto, from 20:20 vision to glasses in a matter of weeks - and then slow decline ever since.

I was having a yarn to Heavansabove on the phone and looking at the saws

I picked up the one with the Disston Canada Medallion (#22 post no 147)
the light hit it at the right angle and, well look at that, an etch!

So yesterday I had a bit of a play and discovered it is a number 112 from Ontario and the etch looks pretty good

Disston Canada 112 etch _9677.jpg

a bit more of a clean up and a little work on the tote - remove the gunk and paint splatters and I'll reassemble and should be a nice little saw
It's currently filed 11 ppi and crosscut - might leave it at that

A big thank you to Peter (Heavansabove) for taking me through the finer aspects of saw sharpening
I believe I now know enough to wreck a saw - seriously it was an invaluable lesson.

Now I desperately need to acquire a saw vice or make one to finish the Francis Wood backsaw
and need a handful of files

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

A big thank you to Peter (Heavansabove) for taking me through the finer aspects of saw sharpening
I believe I now know enough to wreck a saw - seriously it was an invaluable lesson.

Now I desperately need to acquire a saw vice or make one to finish the Francis Wood backsaw
and need a handful of files

Nick pretty quickly got on top of the basics - working on a 300mm Swedish (I think, there is still some of the etch left) 11ppi back saw, dirty rusty, and indifferent quality (from my must move on pile). The saw (0.028" plate) was straight, and whilst dull, the teeth were not a bad shape. When finished the saw was a nicely cutting cross cut with pretty consistent teeth; this experience reinforced my view that beginners should start on saws where the basic teeth shape is ok.

The teeth on the Francis saw were shaped before we ran out of time/eyesight - now for Nick to joint (again), add fleam, set, lightly joint, sharpen.

First time I have used the Veritas filing guide - works pretty well, I hope Brett has mine on the water. We also used Nick's new bronze colour Somax, on the finest setting to set the saw and achieved +/- 0.004" which is sort of ok for a saw this thick/ppi. Seems one needs the Blue Somax for anything above 11 ppi/thinner plate - or a modified Eclipse or Stanley 42X.

Cheers
Peter

Originally Posted by Heavansabove

...... Seems one needs the Blue Somax for anything above 11 ppi/thinner plate - or a modified Eclipse or Stanley 42X...

Yep, Peter, I wouldn't use a standard set on anything above 12 tpi. The good news is, old Eclipses seem to be pretty common & reasonably priced, & modifying the plunger hammer is not difficult. On every one I've struck, the hammer is soft enough to file quite easily, so all you need do is remove it & file (or grind if you wish) the side bevels until it fits over a small tooth comfortably. Watch what you're doing on reassembly - more than once I've not paid attention & put the hammer in upside down.

Cheers,

Greetings
Found three saws on the weekend rust hunt.
Large one looked english;was straight;with a good handle. Medallion missing.
A Warranted Superior Panel Saw ;straight plate ;minor handle damage.
A S&J "saw" ;good handle and nuts ;blade sharpened beyond the pale;may make a ship saw.

No prior photos as I was too eager.

The large saw is a 28 inch 4 ppi progressive rip;very straight blade.
With cleaning an Etch appeared; H Disston and Sons 7 .
I cleaned the handle and attempted to fit some replacement saw nuts;too big for the holes.
I consulted the Disston Oracle (Disstonian Institute) and I (my saw) have Disston patent Saw Nuts which predate Glovers Patent larger calibre saw nuts as used on Disstons ad infinitum.
The DI also said many saws from this era have missing nuts as they are weak and break easily ;mine has one intact and 2 remnants.
The etch has Serifs which makes it the first Sons etch.
Saw dates around 1876-early 1880s if I got it right.
I will have to make some nuts until I possibly find some to suit.(fat chance)

The WS saw is a nice little panel saw;the WS medallion has a Disston look to it. No etch yet found.I think it may turn out well.
19-20 inch XC

The S&J would barely make a metal detector buzz; somebody clearly either loved this saw dearly or was too tight to replace it.
The blade is well bent and will do for a practice run of Smalzerising with the hammer and anvil.

Pics included for your viewing pleasure

Cheers
Tony

Sunday morning ;another visit to the local marketplace.

A saw caught my eye; wheat sheaf carving;Disston medallion;Dark handle looked like a 12 with horn damage.(three bolts)
The back was a skew back?
The saw followed me home for the cost of a packet of TimTams.
Some etch hunting proved elusive; the top half cleared to produce some thing similar to a #12.
The bottom half was pretty hazy.
The handle is Mahogany or Rosewood.
Handle removed; no X stamped under the handle.
What is it?I already have a 12 handsaw with a straight back.
The Disstonian was consulted.
A #112 model was produced from 1903-1928; identical to the 12 in all other aspects excepting the skew back.

The plate is straight;some dental work is needed .
I may have to sacrifice a Stanley plane tote to repair the handle.
Photos included.

From Post number 104

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

#14 Spear & Jackson

Blade 26" long and 6 3/4" deep.
Filed 6 1/2 rip
Owned by someone with the initials "HG". HG Nelson maybe?
There's a nice chip out of the top horn on the obverse side, builders bog should fix that!
It also seems that the front part of the tote has been in oil or something or got oiled along with the blade
The blade is straight, with snail trails and a hint of an etch. I'm concerned that this one might have bad pitting but won't know until I start playing with it.

Attachment 306331 Attachment 306332 Attachment 306334 Attachment 306333 Attachment 306335

I took to the blade with sandpaper yesterday
which has revealed a very detailed etch and it's a number 88A
My concern about pitting seems to be unfounded and the blade should clean up well
the tooth line is a bit sunken chested but easily rectified
and that chip out of the top horn I think I can do a pretty sympathetic repair using a bit of timber from another saw

I'll pull it apart and take piccies later today

SM
Oxalic acid works pretty well on the engine oil staining in handles, in my recent experience.
Cheers
Tony

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

I was having a yarn to Heavansabove on the phone and looking at the saws

I picked up the one with the Disston Canada Medallion (#22 post no 147)
the light hit it at the right angle and, well look at that, an etch!

So yesterday I had a bit of a play and discovered it is a number 112 from Ontario and the etch looks pretty good

Disston Canada 112 etch _9677.jpg

a bit more of a clean up and a little work on the tote - remove the gunk and paint splatters and I'll reassemble and should be a nice little saw
It's currently filed 11 ppi and crosscut - might leave it at that

Nick

That's a good pickup .

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Heavansabove

I am probably ok for rip backsaws - 8", 9", 10", 11", 12", 14", 18". I am going to make a 16" at some stage, although I notice that Stewie in his outline of backsaw dimensions left out the 16" - maybe I don't actually need one.

Cheers
Peter

Peter

Don't be too hasty in discarding the 16". Remember Fred? (aka Bernard Cribbins)

Regards
Paul