That's a couple of vary nice and sturdy saw horses Nick. Very handy to have on available. Well done.
Stewie;
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That's a couple of vary nice and sturdy saw horses Nick. Very handy to have on available. Well done.
Stewie;
I like the broad tops, Nick. I've been looking for a roundtuit to make a couple of new sawhorses myself, and I have some chunky Slash pine bits that would make nice beams for tops like yours. I lost a pair in a move, a few years ago, & cobbled up another pair of low horses for some particular job which needed low supports. I've been using these ever since, cursing them for being too low, & saying "I must make a couple of new horses...." Procrastination is my long suit. :roll:
Cheers
So Nick how goes all these restorations? I came reading to glean info in the handle remake of a handle remake I have to do
Are they all finished no pics here if they are
no not all finished ... still a fair way to go
other things on my plate - family stuff mainly
and I need to build a till to put them in first as they are in the way - I actually knocked a backsaw off the bench the other day - no real damage luckily
so I need somewhere to put them
and I have to finish the handles on the grammercy saws as well
Saw nuts
Saws have been accumulating exponentially,perhaps not in McGee like boluses; but they are exceeding my ability to document them on this site.
Here is one of my recents;a gold coin purchase which typifies my bottom feeding practise.
I bought this for the nuts ;didnt even realize it was S&J til I got home and did a little cleaning.
Handle looked cactus but I thought a little exercise in rehab might be worthwhile.
glue up worked OK and then a little sanding followed by Oxalic Acid (Deck cleaner).
Lovely bit of Beech so now further repairs to the cheeks will ensue.
I have a few other S&J saws which I will present soon;I have been researching S&J with difficulty but have collated some
bits and pieces which I will attempt to present chronologically soon.
Does Simon Barleys book have much on post 1900 S&J ?
I saved the money to buy the book but spent it on tools.
I have included photos of a ?1870-1910 14 inch S&J backsaw pre and mid restoration.
Cheers
TonyAttachment 343692Attachment 343693Attachment 343694Attachment 343695Attachment 343696Attachment 343698
Recently purchased a large Taylor Brothers Backsaw in good condition.
18 inches long with around 4.25 inches blade depth.
The handle has 4 screws which may be why it is still so well attached. I have only seen one other saw with 4 screws;an 18 inch Tillotson on Matt Ciancis website.
The other interesting thing about this saw is the Australian coat of arms stamped in the spine; looks like a factory job.
May have been a big government order?
Blade covered in rust converter prior to polish and sharpen.
Cheers
TonyAttachment 343702Attachment 343703Attachment 343704Attachment 343705Attachment 343706Attachment 343707Attachment 343708
Hi Tony,
Nice couple of saws, and excellent restoration work, how did you get the handles to come up so nice? I had a look in BSSM at S&J, and Simon covers up to as late as the 1970's but a firm like S&J being in business for so long, it's not possible to cover everything. Nonetheless, Simon has 10 pages devoted to S&J marks.
The Taylor with the Australian Coat of Arms is interesting, I wonder if it was stamped by Taylor Bros, or after purchase by some Govt department?
The only mark I could see in BSSM that combined the paschal lamb inside the arc and has the "Made For Use" in a wavy line, is attributed to 1870.
Ray
It's not an official Coat of Arms as the roo and emu should be facing each other and should also swap sides!
The formal one didn't come in until 1908 and the current version from 1912.
There were a few suggested versions about prior to federation.
The Shepparton Hostorical society commented on the Coat of Arms back in 2004!
http://home.vicnet.net.au/~shepfh/Ne...rs/28/28p1.htm :q
Taylor Brothers exhibited at the Melbourne International Exhibition in 1880, which would put it around the right time for the stamp.
http://www.wkfinetools.com/hUK/Taylo...Exhibition.asp
Ray/Hiroller
Many thanks for the replies.
10 pages on SnJ marks! I will buy the book!
Re the handles; I read in one of my older tomes on finishing beech that a thin wash of Dragons Blood improved the depth of Beech .
Dragons Blood is a red pigment of natural origin (Madagascar or Mauritius);part of a flower and is rather expensive and difficult to procure.
My wife paints with oils so I made my own concoction using a tube of Carmine and some natural turps.
The resultant colour approaches fresh blood and is twice as thin as Beetroot juice.
It looks a bit lairy to start with but the finish tempers it nicely( Tung oil or thin poly for beech;french polish for apple)
It works on apple also .
So wash the handle thoroughly with hot water; dry; then apply Oxalic Acid deck cleaner.I do this 3-4 times to even the stains and remove the oxidation. A hot rinse between applications will show the progress.
Then a last rinse ;dry and a days wait before a light sand and Dragons Blood!
Practice on a less valuable item!
Cheers
Tony
Seems Dragon's Blood is readily available http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/1913...pid=107&chn=ps, and not too expensive for a small quantity.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks Heavansabove Well researched. I tried the artistic store in town.
As an example of the handle treatment on Apple here is a Disston I picked up recently; again a gold coin job bought for the handle and nuts.
I was looking at the back and realised if I separated the blade and back I could trim them at alternate ends and make a shorter saw with the Disston inchworm still symmetrically placed on the back.
The hang angle will be interesting for a shorter saw; may be too vertical.
Currently 7 ppi; will go to a 10ppi rip and see what happens.
Cheers
the latest acquisition
A D8 (?) probably
circa 1917 - 1940 going on the medallion
anyway details
26" long, 7" depth at the handle and 4 1/2 pt filed rip
There's a hint of an etch but is fairly faint
Attachment 345223Attachment 345224
Doesn't seem to have had much use given the amount of blade left but as you can see the handle has lost a lot of its varnish
Should clean up well
Nick
I think your saw will clean up very well. Once the handle needs refinishing I like to see flaking varnish as that is normally an indicator that it will sand off easily.
I describe the D8/D-8 as Disston's no frills workhorse. You can hardly go wrong with them.
Nice buy.
Regards
Paul