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Thread: Four new saws (hmm 60+ yo maybe)
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31st January 2014, 10:55 AM #16
Thanks
Yep looks the same as mine but don't know who used it
I'd seen the second article when looking for saw handles (hence the picture of the saw at the end of my last post)
The medallion (bottom right corner 1st set of six) is the spittin image of mine - however there isn't any comment on whom might own it
Now on cleaning the medallion
I imagine a wire wheel on the grinder?regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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31st January 2014, 11:43 AM #17
Saw #3 handle removed
Paul
I removed the handle
all holes lined up - so your theory might (?) need amending
Interesting thing was that someone had made washers out of whatever, to stop the bolts spinning in their holes (maybe). I'd been wondering why the bolts were sitting 'high' or proud of the handle
anyway here are some piccies
Saw #3 handle_2554.jpgsaw #3_2550.jpgsaw #3 handle_2553.jpgsaw #3_2552.jpgsaw #3 sawnuts_2561.jpgsaw #3 bolt_2562.jpg
I might be able to hit the blade with some sandpaper a bit later today (am still on school hols duty)
We thought you might have been having a wet and miserable weekend indoors so thought you needed some light reading
oh and thanks for the link, OMGregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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31st January 2014, 12:59 PM #18
Nick a good thread here, will have to follow more closely.
I have come to the conclusion that loose screw in saw handles is due to timber shrinkage how to avoid this is something worthy of much thought.
Tightening the screws doesn't stop shrinkage along the shank of the screws.
Time you put a pool in.
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31st January 2014, 07:02 PM #19
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3rd February 2014, 10:07 AM #20
citric acid v electrolysis
I'm thinking of either using citric acid or electrolysis on the farmers saw (saw no 2)
I've used citric acid on drill bits and other small stuff seems pretty simple
I've a battery charger somewhere which I inherited from my father.
Where the hell do you get a container big enough to take a saw blade? I'm thinking of a 6" bit of water pipe with an end cap and suspend the blade in the pipe.
Can anybody advise the downside of either method?
Would either method be better for enhancing an etch? Given I seem to have obliterated the etch on saw No 4.regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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3rd February 2014, 05:25 PM #21Senior Member
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If you want to preserve an etching then I think electrolysis would be the best option. I haven't used citric acid before but I have used vinegar quite successfully, only problem with the vinegar is that it also removed the etching. I suspect citric acid would do the same but I stand under correction.
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3rd February 2014, 05:32 PM #22
BobL has posted in the past about his saws and electrolysis I am sure.
I'll look for it later if no-one else finds it before then.
Also wanting to know about etches and cleaning methods, so some experimentation overdue.
Cheers,
Paul
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3rd February 2014, 10:24 PM #23
Thanks Paul
I've done some searching
Found this HTPAA article on electrolysis
and another article this one by Bill
Seems the way to go
One point is BobL's comments on the hydrogen release - he seems to suggest that deep thin containers might not be the best idea.
posts 10 and 15 on this thread
so my 6" pipe about 36" long might not be a sound idea.
There seems to be a suggestion that acid (citric or whatever) could possibly damage any etching as well as remove the rust
So I'm thinking that electrolysis might be the better way to go, so looks like I'm agreeing with you JohnnyLast edited by Sawdust Maker; 3rd February 2014 at 10:28 PM. Reason: correct spellin
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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3rd February 2014, 11:42 PM #24
Nick
There is quite a lot of information around for de-rusting using electrolosis. It is the way I intend to go for some recently acquired saws. I think it is a good idea to perfom this in a very well ventilated area: Out in the open even!Quite apart from the risk of expolosion from hydrogen, chromium hexavalents are released during the process.
There has been quite a bit of hype over this in the past, but I suspect that in the the sort of exposure we are contemplating and taking normal common sense precautions it is unlikely to be an issue. Having said that my main precaution is to have the container out in the open. BobL is the expert on the technical/chemical aspects.
On the subject of containers and an object such as a handsaw it can be aproblem. It is possible to do the blade half the length at a time in a smaller container. Otherwise, I expect you have a wheelie bin. If you have one of the smaller versions, that would be even better and perfect for your saws, but either way make sure it has been emptied first! I will be using the plastic body of an old water softener that I have deliberately kept for this purpose(for about six years).
The question I have about electolosis is the effect it has on the etch? Any answers appreciated here. Of course it is not an issue if the etch is non existant or not important. I have heard there are fluids/compounds to darken or enhance the etch. This is one I have heard recommended:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/380184190458?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_400wt_1362
I am still investigating as to whether this can be bought in Oz.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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3rd February 2014, 11:54 PM #25
Nick
Another link for you:
Restoring Vintage Saws - Restoring vintage and antique woodworking tools - wkFineTools.com
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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4th February 2014, 07:21 AM #26
Nick container wise some of the underbed long flat storage containers might do the trick cheap enough. Not sure how they'll handle the acid tho.
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4th February 2014, 08:30 AM #27
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4th February 2014, 08:42 AM #28
Pacman got there before me, his pics are earlier, but I tried it from watsonbrass.com.au here: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/r...2/#post1599114
You guys are reminding me of all the experimenting that needs doing
I have a couple sawblades here that are just dull and matte and lifeless and ugly (to look at) and I have assumed up to now that they are probably from electrolysis. Maybe too much of it.
But I know someone on here, within say the last 6 months, did some electrolysis on a or some sawblades and didn't kill the etch.
Homesy bought a plastic storage tub for it I think? For the Tyzack backsaw maybe? Was it you, Mr H?
Around here we could get the plastic 44-gallon drums pretty cheaply ... maybe $20 or less. I haven't looked for quite a while.
I don't think BobL particularly thought hydrogen embrittlement a big problem. I think he might have said an afternoon in the sun, after rustproofing, would fix it.
But maybe it isn't just applicable to electrolysis ... http://www.greensladeandcompany.com/...oks%20like.pdf
"3. The failed parts must be electro-plated. The creationof the hydrogen in the metal fastener is caused
by the cleaning processes where acids are used and
not by the actual application of the plating. I have heard
of many cases where non-electroplated parts were suspected
of hydrogen em-brittlement, but I am not aware
of any that were confirmed to have failed from hydrogen
embrittlement."
http://www.tau.ac.il/~chemlaba/Files...n/13208_02.pdf
"Platers must be especially aware of hydrogen embrittlement effects since many preplating and plating operations can be potent sources of
absorbable hydrogen. Table 1, which lists sources of hydrogen, clearly
shows that cathodic cleaning, pickling and electroplating are all culprits.
This table also shows why anodic cleaning, which generates no hydrogen,
is preferable to cathodic cleaning which generates copious amounts of
hydrogen. Since corrosion reactions are also generators of hydrogen, care
in choosing the proper coating to prevent corrosion is also quite important.
In general, any process producing atomic hydrogen at a metal surface will
induce considerable hydrogen absorption in that metal. However, not all the
hydrogen atoms released at the surface enter metals; a large fraction com-
bines or recombines to form bubbles of gaseous or molecular hydrogen
which is not soluble in metals (9).
"
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4th February 2014, 09:02 AM #29
I wasn't unduly concerned about the embrittlement aspect just the buildup of free hydrogen in a 1 metre tube rather than an open tub ie the explosive risk
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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4th February 2014, 09:13 AM #30
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