Thread: Four new saws (hmm 60+ yo maybe)

Nick

As you say, not as good as the first lot, but a good source for materials and the opportunity for plenty of practice runs .

I think the Disston might be from the later HK Porter era as the handle looks plain. Does it have a number in the etch. Does it have "Disston" in outline to the right of the etch?

Regards
Paul

The oldest (#12) might still have a stamp in the blade ... and my raging wild ass guess based on nothing might be Robert Sorby ... but there are any number it could be.

It looks like there's been a bit of investigation in the middle of the blade ... perhaps there is something revealed already.

This is what you are looking for ... very different size (smaller) than an etch. https://picasaweb.google.com/1035543...90/RobertSorby

That's the most interesting one in my eyes ... not necessarily the most useable 'though.
The earlier they are, generally the less was 'written'. Like the last(third) saw on that page I linked.

The handle is beech ... and looks just like I was trying to describe on the phone. Kinda distressed, the distinct grain layers ... and maybe even the corrugated appearance ... I can't quite tell. I said I had pictures of Beech handles to put up ... I'll get onto it.

Stupid I know, but I'd be interested to know how the blades sound. A modern hardpoint saw ... untapered ... I guess untensioned? ... just sounds like 'tunk'.
I'd guess quite of few of those ten would have a reasonable ring to them.

Shorter blades don't do it as well as a 26" saw, ... and loose saw bolts will kill the sound too.

I can't say I know how that translates into effective sawing exactly. Except a thin, floppy saw would be unusable without tensioning it like in a bowsaw. So tension should allow a thinner saw than otherwise. and maybe it supports the taper as well??

But I can also imagine that a no-nonsense, stiff, solid, unmusical sort of blade could be useful in a rip cut as long as you were on your line. Hopefully I'll get some insight into that when I get back to the sawbench build. Unless stiff tends to imply thicker and less taper.

Cheers,
Paul

What do you reckon?
Does the tote on the Bushman (#17) match the curve on saw #4 which had the dodgy tote?
Is that the same outline?

No 4 saw_2509.jpgNo 4 saw_2505.jpgSaw #17 Bushman_4803.jpgSaw #17 Bushman_4802.jpg

I'll check them both together tomorrow

Nick. Personally I think the #12 Unmarked handsaw is the pick of the bunch. Its certainly dates the earliest looking at the shape of the handle and the split saw nuts. You may be lucky to pick up a manufacturers etch if the blades cleaned up correctly. From a historical context its certainly well worth spending that extra time on this saw to give it a quality restoration job. Nice find.

Stewie;

Ok now to be serious, well semi serious anyway

Originally Posted by pmcgee

The oldest (#12) might still have a stamp in the blade ... and my raging wild ass guess based on nothing might be Robert Sorby ... but there are any number it could be.

It looks like there's been a bit of investigation in the middle of the blade ... perhaps there is something revealed already.

This is what you are looking for ... very different size (smaller) than an etch. https://picasaweb.google.com/1035543...90/RobertSorby

That's the most interesting one in my eyes ... not necessarily the most useable 'though.
The earlier they are, generally the less was 'written'. Like the last(third) saw on that page I linked.

Thanks.
I thought it an interesting saw as well and read up on what I could but there's not much around
I've had a look and can't see any makers mark, stamp or whatever
not sure this saw has been used much - still seems pretty sharp.

Originally Posted by pmcgee

The handle is beech ... and looks just like I was trying to describe on the phone. Kinda distressed, the distinct grain layers ... and maybe even the corrugated appearance ... I can't quite tell. I said I had pictures of Beech handles to put up ... I'll get onto it.

It's ok I knew what you were talking about - but it might help others
I'm debating on whether I try and repair that chip - at the moment I'm inclined to leave it
Won't be that easy to find some old matching timber, any newish wood will stand out like ...
Brit@al had some problems in this regard in some of his repairs

Originally Posted by pmcgee

Stupid I know, but I'd be interested to know how the blades sound. A modern hardpoint saw ... untapered ... I guess untensioned? ... just sounds like 'tunk'.
I'd guess quite of few of those ten would have a reasonable ring to them.

Shorter blades don't do it as well as a 26" saw, ... and loose saw bolts will kill the sound too.

I can't say I know how that translates into effective sawing exactly. Except a thin, floppy saw would be unusable without tensioning it like in a bowsaw. So tension should allow a thinner saw than otherwise. and maybe it supports the taper as well??

But I can also imagine that a no-nonsense, stiff, solid, unmusical sort of blade could be useful in a rip cut as long as you were on your line. Hopefully I'll get some insight into that when I get back to the sawbench build. Unless stiff tends to imply thicker and less taper.

Cheers,
Paul

So I need to find a little mallet and a tuning fork
Should I make one - jarrah or some hard rubber? square or round head or ball shaped like used on a xylophone? This could be a niche market!

I've tapped some of the saws with a knuckle and to be candid have no idea what I'm listening for.
We need a sound file or a youtube thingy.

Originally Posted by planemaker

Nick. Personally I think the #12 Unmarked handsaw is the pick of the bunch. Its certainly dates the earliest looking at the shape of the handle and the split saw nuts. You may be lucky to pick up a manufacturers etch if the blades cleaned up correctly. From a historical context its certainly well worth spending that extra time on this saw to give it a quality restoration job. Nice find.

Stewie;

Thanks mate

When I unwrapped it I thought "hmm that's interesting - odd shaped handle - old handle" I had to think where I'd seen the shape - Googled saw handle shapes then went through them, ah ha London shape, interesting.
Anyway, whilst I'm super curious about it I will play with a couple of the others first - well maybe I'll have a little play
I'd be interested in getting it in working order and thus the issue of straightening up the blade rears its ugly head.
Back to the tote, it fits my hand like a glove, feels really comfortable, I want to use it

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

So I need to find a little mallet and a tuning fork
Should I make one - jarrah or some hard rubber? square or round head or ball shaped like used on a xylophone? This could be a niche market!

Nick

You have to put two bends in the saw to make a wave shape. To get the ringing sound, just flick the plate with your finger. This just gives a comparison between saws.

Google "musical saws" for more information.

You can play the saw with a violin bow, but I don't think this is going to give you a great insight to the maker or indeed any other aspect of the saw's construction .

Regards
Paul

PS. The better quality saws do seem to sound better: more tension I suppose.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

I've tapped some of the saws with a knuckle and to be candid have no idea what I'm listening for.
We need a sound file or a youtube thingy.

Some idiot already did that ... but this time I he had the camera (phone) facing.
Unfortunately the mic must be on the back ... the sound is a bit muffled.

and NO. I'm not buying special equipment for it.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/saws-beyond-ridiculous-182512

Thanks Paul

#12 seems to have a nice tone
I may record later (or I may not)

Had a look for a stamp and have found a couple of letters - gently using 400 grit around a block

B
LO?DON

#12 mark contrast_4852.jpg#12 mark grey_4850.jpg#12 mark_4852.jpg

Heh heh heh ... excellent excellent. Now you can feel my pain

a) it's hard to photograph ... and
b) it's can be hard to see in person too.

I think you've done the right thing with the 400. Going over it with lubricated 2000 auto paper is a pretty safe step and tend to smooth it all a bit and possibly add slightly to readability.

Another thing to try is a dark room and a torch slanting in at various angles ... and/or the same with WD40 over the stamp.

I have another video from Whack-a-Doodle productions that might give the idea.

Often you would expect "LONDON SPRING" referring to the quality of the metal ... but it looks to me like there is a "W" after your LONDON ... which might be LONDON WARRANTED.

Most often you have "warranted cast steel" so the "warranted" tends to be on the left side of the stamp. Not here.

The name on top could be just "BUCK" ... my first thought was maybe "BUCK LONDON" ... which lack of extra detail tends to mean something quite early ... pre-1850 I'd think ... but I know only a little.

If the bottom is "LONDON WARRANTED" then you would expect a longer name on top to keep the symmetry.

Time to ask Backsaw.net!

Cheers,
Paul

Looks like these?
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/buck-saw-150718/
http://www.backsaw.net/index.php?opt...read.php&t=426

You look at these things ... then go away and come back later ...

I think it is very likely "BUCK - LONDON"

Silly me ... the bottom line is most likely" CAST (STEEL) - LONDON - WARRANTED"

Thanks for the links Hiroller.

Ray thought through a BUCK here ... https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...472#post910472

with a good stamp photo ...

Thanks Paul

In the photos I can see the BUC - harder to see by the naked eye

so you are probably on the right track

and I'd see the V after London and wondered what it might be could be a W perhaps
The trouble with this is looking at something and see a stray nick or scratch and thinking it's a part of the original marking

I'll do a bit more work on it - probably tomorrow

no more work on the Buck



but here's where the little backsaw is at

Blade has been cleaned up
It's on it's way to Melbourne to be re toothed - it'll end up as a 12 pt crosscut (hopefully)

F Wood & Son_4826.jpg

handle has been sanded to some extent, I think it needs a little work yet.
Not much and soonish I'll have to find some appropriate saw nuts
F Wood & Son_4833.jpgF Wood & Son_4835.jpg