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14th June 2014, 07:43 PM #1
Some different saws and other stuff.
Today I had did some work on some of my saws and also had my camera out so decided I'd take some pics.
First is my "Armstrong" saw I purchased some time OK. It was minus a handle and in pretty rough condition. I have cleaned it up as well as I can sharpened it and made a new handle. I spent a lot of time trying to get the set right, In my piece of test spotted gum it would either cut a channel half an inch wide or jamb today I think I got it right but lost a tooth in the process .
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Also this morning I finished my first Bow saw, I had been wanting to make one for quite some time but getting a blade was always an issue. That was until some one (sorry I forget who you where) mentioned that they cut down old (panel) saw blades to use in bow saws. So here is my first attempt, the blade is filed cross cut and works a treat. I may need to shorten the blade a touch as the arms pivot a bit too much on the cross rail leaving quite gap which is annoying. Also following a trend established in another thread a picture of the tools that I used to make it.
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During the week I was trying to saw some wood on my bench in a confined spot and thought I need a smaller saw. Last year I found one of those "nests" of saws at the local tip so paired the handle from an old Disston also from the tip onto one of the blades from the nest. Behold the ugly duckling, With those teeth it sure does rip through the wood though.
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The last saw related picks are of an old Disston picked up last weekend from the local tip, Bit better quality that the normal find with brass nuts, The guy was going to charge me $2.00 but when I only had a $20.00 it he said just take it. I fully intend to just rip out the nuts and throw the rest away but I find it really hard to throw away these old saws. Maybe I'll fix it up and give it away to some one. Blades not too pocked from rust.
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and lastly because I had the camera out and I like looking at where other people 'Play" here are some photos of my 'Shed" The Freezer has my Home brew kegs in it and the door leads to my office where I work a few days a week as a computer programmer and director of a software company when I'm not in the office. The "shed" is a 1 car garage with the office built up one end taking up about a 1/3 (It will never fit a car in again unless the office gets pulled out).
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Despite how it looks in the photo that wood is not about to fall on my head )
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14th June 2014, 08:55 PM #2Deceased
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Nice layout with workshop. You did a great job with the bow saw build. Well done.
Stewie;
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15th June 2014, 09:48 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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A small tweak you can make to your bow saw is to put a slight curve on the joint between the stretcher and the arms so that it always fits no matter what the tension.
See page 2 of the TFWW plans for an example:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/e..._full_8x14.pdf
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15th June 2014, 01:06 PM #4
That first saw, the Armstrong looks like it was meant to be a rip saw going by the size of the teeth. Not sure from the pics but it also looks like the teeth are progressive. Are they small at the front and getting larger at the back or is it ust the camera angle.
As for adjusting the set you cant really bend them about a couple of times or as you have found they can snap off. You can reduce the set a small amount by stoneing. I find the numbers on my eclipse saw set are a bit on the wide side so usually set teeth about 2 or even 3 up from the saws tpi.
Regards
John
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15th June 2014, 02:27 PM #5
Yes it is progressive. The tooth pattern is a plain tooth pattern filed crosscut to cut on the pull and push. Not as efficient as some of the other patterns but easy to sharpen and works OK in hardwood.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
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15th June 2014, 07:39 PM #6
John, the numbers on saw sets are not necessarily what you use for any given tpi, they are simply a scale. If they do happen to coincide with any of your saws, that's lucky, 'cos it makes it easier to remember, but they are often way off what you actually need.
There are good reasons why you can't have the same set for all saws of a given tpi. The first is that you should set to give a kerf that is somewhere between 10 & 20% wider than the plate - the amount varies depending on the saw's tooth profile & type of wood it's meant to cut . Plate thickness varies, so you need to take account of that, & push thin teeth over less than thicker teeth, even if they are the same tpi. You can muck about sawing kerfs & measuring the size with a feeler gauge & calipers, but trial & error is probably easier - just add enough set that the saw doesn't bind. If you add too much, the saw 'rattles' in the cut & leaves a wavy surface. Depending on what the saw is most used for, you might want a little bit more set than it requires to prevent binding for 'steerage' on a ripsaw. Most softwoods need more set than hardwoods for crosscutting, and wet wood needs a lot more set than bone dry wood.
So the numbers are a guide, but you can't simply apply a saw-set number to a given tpi.......
Cheers,IW
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15th June 2014, 09:22 PM #7
Nice work with the bow saw!..
That Disston, is very likely to have been made in Sydney ( or at least handled in Sydney ) Disston set up factories in Canada to take advantage of the favourable tarrifs between commonwealth countries and shipped saw plate and hardware to commonwealth countries like Australia for finishing, saws with Disston Canada medallions are common in New Zealand too, but most of them came from Disston in Sydney.
Why they didn't make a Disston Australia Medallion I wonder?
Ray
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16th June 2014, 11:59 AM #8
Ian,
What you say is so right and what I have found by trial and error. Prior to joining this forum all the woodwotk books I read said use the tpi number to adjust the saw set. Practical experience showed it was not quite the whole picture. I was not aware of the set to plate thickness ratio but it makes sense. Always a good day when you learn something.
Regards
John
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