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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    I buried several questions in amongst the pics, ....
    You're not wrong there!

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Ian, the bottom chisel is the 13.33mm Marples Parer, with a loose fitted handle that was in the pile. It appears to be a very good fit. Does this look like an original handle for a Marples Parer?
    Brett, I am far from an expert on old tools! It doesn't look like any Marples handle I've ever seen, but I sure haven't seen them all. Odd, or mis-matched handles on old chisels has got to be one of the more common conditions, though....

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    ......sure looks like it might be a "Titan" logo. What remains is "ITAN COMSTEEL TOOLSTEEL". Is that right? .
    Well, I don't know of any other brands with those letters in that order in their name, so I reckon you could bet good money on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Middle chisel is a [COLOR=Blue]"W.MARPLES & SONS SHEFFIELD". It looks like it would be a Paring Chisel by the length, but what gets me is the width - 13.33mm.
    33/64" is 13.10mm, and 17/32" is 13.49mm. Now you could say that a quarter of a mm error is acceptable within tolerance, BUT I'd be pretty sure that 33/64 and 17/32 were not sizes made. What does that make it? Or is it a case of Parers don't really need a specific measurement?
    I have certainly noticed quite a variation of nominal chisel sizes, though I couldn't tell you what the ranges are. 13 1/2mm is a bit off 1/2", but maybe it was the upper extreme of what was acceptable, late on a Friday arvo. Alternatively, someone MAY have decided to make a 5/8" narrower, for some reason....

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Still on Pic 30 Can I call the bottom one (with the shark logo) a Berg then? Definitely not a Bahco? Again an odd(ish) size at 5/16" but I can see that size could have been made (not as weird as 33/64). [B]Indeed, does the 5/16 size categorically make it a Berg and not a Bahco, given that I imagine Bahco would have stripped down the range on offer to only THE most common sizes? Or was Bahco still a fair dinkum tool maker in the 60's (run by an accountant now)?
    If it walks like a duck... That raised ring on the top of the socket is very distinctly Berg-ish, I don't know of any other brand that looks quite like that (but there MAY be others...). As someone else has said, they didn't seem to bother branding their smaller sizes, and it wasn't even constant. The 1/8 I got from the old pot's kit is not branded, & that's understandable given there is not much room for anything on a 1/8th blade, but I also have two 1/4" , one from my father's set, and one from FIL's shed (the only chisel in the place - what hppened to the rest? ). One of the 1/4" chiels is branded, the other has no markings whatever on it, but its shape is identical, and both have typical Birch handles, complete with Berg decals, which I have every reason to believe are original. Did Berg produce 'generic' chisels for large retailers??

    Cheers,
    PS: I had a few genuine Titan handles kicking about, but they were for socket firmers, and I have already promised them to someone else. It shouldn't be too hard to fulfil your wish for a new handle, though. Tang handles are easy - I can maake a pilot hole on the lathe, & you can enlarge that to suit, but sockets are rather difficult to make remotely - they need to be fitted individually as no two seem to be exactly the same. I recently got hold of a lovely, near-ful-length 1 1/2" socket firmer, and thought "goody, all I need to do is swap the handle on the almost worn out one I have". Nope, the nice Mulga handle I'd made was way too loose in the better chisel ... (But with a bit of adjustment, it fitted nicely in a 1 1/4". )
    Last edited by IanW; 17th July 2012 at 07:09 PM.
    IW

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  3. #32
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    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/t...70/#post858048

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/t...22/#post754126

    Disston never carried an open-handled backsaw in its catalog, with the exception of the "Jackson" brand backsaw in the late 19th century and the "Davis" in the early 20th century. Jackson was a second-line brand with lesser quality in materials and finish than the Disston brand saws. It is shown with an open handle in the 1890 catalog. Later the Jackson saw was made with a closed handle only. Davis was of similar quality and featured an open handle in the 10 and 12 inch lengths.
    I use this quote in reference to the Jackson brand, not the open-handled backsaw.

    Don't confuse this saw with a Jackson & Co.-Sheffield, which is an English saw, and completely unrelated.

    From here.

    Toby

  4. #33
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    Disston's second line saws information from Pete. (even though he's dead now)

    Toby

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    From here.<<<<<



    From here.<<<<<


    #9567 Preston Bullnose Rabbet plane. A$ 225

    From here.<<<<<

    Toby

  6. #35
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    Ian, thanks for your info. A Berg will do then! That's a very nice score for a fella just stepping onto the slippery slope eh?

    Toby, thanks for your links & info. It's amazing how the $ tally on this lot is building. I think it best that I withold this information from Brian! I've been a little busy with cleaning the tools up to do any research myself (pics coming) but I'm going to look for the Disston Saw Vise. Top of the head I'll say $80-180.The Southington clamp has come up a treat (another wall hanger).

    Btw Toby, you were saying you need to come over here - there are worse places to be, and few (if any) better.

    Cheers, Brett
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  7. #36
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    Here's the first one I looked at.

    And this.

    And this.

    Toby

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    Here.

    Toby

  9. #38
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    Jeez Toby, who influenced whom with research between you and Paul? You are both incredible. Yes, I just saw some saw vises from $100-$250 (the top end still had 98% of the japanning). I'll settle on $150 (all moot of course, but interesting just the same).

    So far I've cleaned up the small parts of the vise, and I have to say the shiny steel looks very attractive. I've always thought that when too much paint is missing then it detracts so you may as well lose the lot or repaint it. Of course repainting means no ongoing rust prevention, but the whole thing as bare steel would look just great. Hmmm :thinks:

    That Southington clamp is in about the same nick as mine was, so I reckon I've added $20 (it looks fantastic now). Call it $80.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  10. #39
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    Berg registered trademark

  11. #40
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    Cheers Paul
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  12. #41
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    Berg Catalogue Scans ( courtesy Anorak Bob)

  13. #42
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    Interesting Paul, the catalogues are dated 1965 after Bahco took over (as can be seen). The pages on sockets chisels don't mention a 5/16", so if the range was stripped down then this one would pre-date that I guess. Certainly, as IanW pointed out, the top of the socket is a dead match.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  14. #43
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    Default A bit of a cleanup

    By now, anything that needed a Citric Acid bath has been done (30% done twice). Some have been brushed with a motorised brass brush, but things like the files have been left with the grey pearlite (?) finish and then camellia oiled, as I don't think motorised brushing of files is good idea. I used a kilo of CA all told.

    Ian, the files are all Wiltshire (Oz) with a couple of Nicholsons (USA and Canada) and a Spear & Jackson. There's a dozen or more saw files (Slim, Extra Slim, 125mm, 150mm), and they seem to be hardly used in most cases. Then there is a 10" Smooth, Dead Smooth, a mint condition 12" Rasp (like I need a hideous machine cut rasp!). The Dreadnaught may see some use, as I have a blade holder for a couple of experimental Liogier rasp plates.






    The edges look to be ok (to my eye anyway - Ian?). After the acid bath all the files feel sharp and "grabby".




    Chippy - there's even a couple of 6" Cant files, and a 10" as well,
    although the larger one has seen use. There are a few chips in the edges in some from poor storage (bumping each other), but not too bad overall.




    Btw Chippy, the sole on the German Jack is not only convex as you suggested it would be, it slopes all over the place, particularly at the heel where it's 3-4mm out! Definitely a wall hanger.


    Colt Drill tubes make a great storage for small files:




    The Dividers are Henry Boker (German) and are definite users (already in the drawer):




    The Southington clamp has come up an absolute treat. There is patina still there, but without all the crud:




    The condition of the saw plate isn't too bad, although a little pitted. I'm thinking that I might have a go a making a new handle for it, angled down a little bit for use at eye level (it's a dovetail). How would a pice of Huon Pine be for this purpose?

    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  15. #44
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    Brett, as far as I can tell from the pics, the files look ok & don't seem to have had any appreciable use.

    Haven't seen a cant file in ages - the old pot used them for some of the crosscut saws we had before the chainsaw era. Actually, we still used a couple for a good while after, as the early chainsaws were not very nice beasts! As a 15 year-old, I much preferred to carry the nice litle (6 ft) one/two man saw than the lumping great "Blue-streak", if any amout of walking to the job was involved. First you had to get it there, then pray the mongrel of a thing would actually start, which was a 50/50 bet on a wet morning!

    Huon could make a very elegant handle if you have a nice, dense piece. I remember someone (RayG I think it was) making one from Huon a while ago, which cracked on him at the last minute. However, iirc, it was due to a fault & a sound bit should be fine. The original handle looks pretty comfy, & if I were doing it, I would copy the grip part, but alter the cheek area a bit so that you can rotate it down a little. Again, it's hard to tell from a pic, but the grip angle on the original hndle looks fairly close to what you need. I think I would do a set & sharpen and a few test-drives before replacing the handle, if it were mine. (Which may sound like hypocrisy from an inveterate handle-replacer like me!) However, you might find it quite good to use as-is, which would save some trouble.

    Cheers,
    IW

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    Thanks Ian.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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