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  1. #31
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    Nov 2004
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    Mine is bevel down.

    For finish I used a huge amount of BLO, followed by Ubeaut traditional wax.

    For your next woody plane you may want to consider Derek's yummy recipe. It did wonders to my plane.

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  3. #32
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    Jan 2004
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    Towradgi
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    Sheddie, my old woody Scub is also bevel down. I'll give the bevel up ago tommorrow on a bit of Tallowwood. None of this Crapiarta stuff, I've ran out
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Gippsland, Vic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    Sheddie, my old woody Scub is also bevel down. I'll give the bevel up ago tommorrow on a bit of Tallowwood. None of this Crapiarta stuff, I've ran out
    g'day Pat. Don't bother. Bevel up is wrong.
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  5. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
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    50
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    4,844

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shedhand View Post
    Shut up Jake..don't interupt when I'm talkin' stand in the corner rude bugga

    As I was about to say before I was rudely interrupted.
    Charrrrming..... I didn't know there was going to be 6 steps !

    tried taking thicker shavings than that yet ? ..... from what I saw they look like the kind of shavings you could do with any bench plane.

    My scrubs a bit different to yours. Yours is bevel down.....mines with the blade back up (BBU)....slightly skewed to the left (SSTTL).... and splashing it with holy water helps (SIWHW) .

  6. #35
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by apricotripper View Post
    Charrrrming..... I didn't know there was going to be 6 steps !

    tried taking thicker shavings than that yet ? ..... from what I saw they look like the kind of shavings you could do with any bench plane.

    My scrubs a bit different to yours. Yours is bevel down.....mines with the blade back up (BBU)....slightly skewed to the left (SSTTL).... and splashing it with holy water helps (SIWHW) .
    Once I sorted the bevel up/down question i hit the crapiata again. got chips you could trip over. Mind you being a light weight wooden plane I had to put a bit of grunt behind it. But, as someone said it removed a prodigious amount of wood in short time albeit pine. I reckon something heavier like a 3 or 4 stanley would drive through a bit easier. I might have a go at somehow modifying the Stanley 3 to take an old Marples blade. The thicknesses of these old blades is somehow very re-assuring to me. Especially when shooting through knots.
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  7. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,826

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    The thicknesses of these old blades is somehow very re-assuring to me. Especially when shooting through knots.
    This is why the LV Scrub plane is so good: thick blade, heavy casting, and longer length.

    BUT, when it come to working really hard Jarrah, etc then I bring out the Big Gun, the #5 1/2 scrub. Nothing like extra momentum! I am on the lookout for a thick blade for it.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #37
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    Apr 2005
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    kyogle N.S.W
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    This is why the LV Scrub plane is so good: thick blade, heavy casting, and longer length.

    BUT, when it come to working really hard Jarrah, etc then I bring out the Big Gun, the #5 1/2 scrub. Nothing like extra momentum! I am on the lookout for a thick blade for it.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    I agree entirely. Personally prefer a heavier plane over a light one.

  9. #38
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    Jan 2004
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    Derek, your next infill could be a No 3/4/5 1/2 Scrub with the infill of lead or other suitably "Heavy" metal . . . The Iron Maiden of Woodwrecking

    Flame suit on
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

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