Thread: Another set of BE Bergs to rehab

Ern, I have seen Bergs that are bent because they have been used as mortice chisels or levers or paint tin openers or whatever. This instead of the paring function that we all use them for now.
Most Bergs have a tempered section of blade that comes about 3/4 of the way up the blade - above that it may be softer. Check first if the tempered section is straight, and if so, you can likely bend it back into shape (gently) as the bending may have happened above the brittle steel.
I have had to do this with a couple of mine.
Cheers
SG

Ern - wot SG says, although I think the blades are hardened almost to the socket on my Bergs, not 3/4 of the way. They aren't as brittle as some modern chisels, so as long as someone hasn't done something silly to them, they can probably be safely tapped back to near-straight, then finished by lapping. (However, this is gratuitous advice & no responsibility taken, etc... ).

As you have already suggested, how straight for how long is up to you & intended use. For paring chisels, I want the back of the blade dead flat from tip to tang. If it's bellied, it will dig in uncontrollably, & if bowed, you can't control the cut finely. For chopping dovetails, you only need the end 30mm, or less, flat.

I had a little enlightening experience with a 3/4" chisel I bought on impulse a few years ago. This chisel came from one of the 'budget' Sheffield manufacturers, and was probably ok for cleaning fingernails, but as a chisel, it was useless. The steel was so soft I could file it easily with a worn-out file. So one day when my neighbor had his forge going, I popped it in & re-cooked it. In the process, I over-heated it a bit, & the blade sagged before I got it cooled. Without thinking, I laid it (cold) on the anvil and gave it a bit of a tap. I now have a short, & extremely hard stubby, and piece of 3/4 chisel steel with no tang! (I can't tell you exactly what I said at the time, but it translates roughly to, "I am a bit of a dolt & that was not a very clever thing to do... " )

This also reminds me to chivvy you all to keep your smithing terms correct, please. "Tempering" is the process of softening the steel to working hardness after initial hardening (the step I neglected to take!). I assume you meant your blades are hardened 3/4 of the way up, & softer after that, SG.....(?)

Cheers,

Thanks gents.

They haven't been used as screw drivers or morticers on hardwood happily so there's no major rebending needed.

And thanks for the terminological exactitude warning.

'Temper' is a useful, generative, noun in my opinion. Assume it's the root of temperament.

Which is a critical part of woodwork. You don't see much about attitude or disposition in books on WW but there's no success possible without the right kinds.

I see variation among my turning students and can predict how well they'll do from their disposition.

Originally Posted by rsser

And thanks for the terminological exactitude warning.

'Temper' is a useful, generative, noun in my opinion. Assume it's the root of temperament.

Well yes, Ern, all the words with 'temper' in them are from the same Latin root.

From Websters online dict.:
Tem´per. v. t. 1. To mingle in due proportion; to prepare by combining; to modify, as by adding some new element; to qualify, as by an ingredient; hence, to soften; to mollify; to assuage; to soothe; to calm.

I'm sorry, can't help myself - spent a good deal of my life teaching people to use words correctly...... (or should that be )

Cheers,

Communicating well is at the heart of so many important things.

...

That's spot on ... temper as a verb: 'to mingle in due proportion'.

What worlds are contained in that.

Hmmm ... explain 'temperance' as in '... movement' then



Alcohol softens and mollifies right?

I often wondered what all the monks did after the monasteries were dissolved. No more hair shirts, no more flagellation (well not a lot) and interminable penance. Now I know, they all went on to flattening chisel backs.
Thanks for the lesson Ern
Cheers,
JIm

LOL.

Think I've served the novitiate Jim and sadly have no-one lining up to join my shed priesthood.

Lapping and polishing are a meditative thing enjoyable with the right mindset. Mine's clearly a contemplative order

With Worksharp discs mounted on arbours on the lathe there's no real penance with the lapping. Polishing the 40mm or so from the tip however ...

It's pleasing to have a set of 7 socket Bergs as I rehabbed and sold the first set only to feel pangs within days. And they're in good nick to begin with; thanks again Sapling.

Ah well Ern, you should know your own spiritual health - far be it from me to cast the first stone, be it water, oil or ceramic.
Cheers,
Jim

Feel free to cast the first stone ... as long as I can set its specs

But IIRC you have to be without sin to do so.

Expect special dispensations are still on offer. Can send you one in the mail along with the stone specs

Meantime, my two bob's worth re lapping with powered discs of whatever sort is to get the max trailing orientation cos as you'd expect, the leading edge of the shaft (the upper long side) gets the most abrasion.