Thread: Siezed bolt

Originally Posted by MarkV

giving it a really good belt ... as you are only trying to shock the threads.

Or you might just strip the threads off the screw. Giving it a tap whilst turning the screw driver is effectively a 'manual' impact driver. You only want to loosen the corrosion enough to turn the screw.

Dan

You could well try the electrolysis method which can be used to losen rusted and fused parts. At the same time it will remove any rust from your plane, but will not remove unrusted metal or damage sound japanning.

You will need a battery charger, bucket, washing soda, fill the bucket with water, add about a table spoon of soda per litre. Connect the negative electrode of the charger to the plane body and put it in the bucket. With the positive electrode connect it to a piece of scrap metal and put it in the bucket but no touching the plane body and switch it on - leave it there for a day or so. It should losen it and clean the plane also.

Have a search on the internet for rust removal and electrolysis for mor info

Regards
Stephen

I was a sceptic-but it bloody works mate. I used a cutoff piece of stainless steel as the anode - no scaly bits. The very rusty old chook **** covered 1910 #4 came up a bloody treat mate, without affecting the original machining. THIS is the way to go folks.

Originally Posted by MarkV

HYDROCHLORIC acid is corrosive and definitely NOT the go.

I had to remove an aluminium propellor from a steel shaft that it had seized onto a while ago. Decided that they way to do it might be to soak the whole shebang in a hydrochloric acid bath. Left the whole lot in the hydrochloric overnight and in the morning went tap tap on the prop. Crumble, crumble went the prop.

Bob Willson,
You got it off though?
ernknot

Originally Posted by MarkV

Linelefty,
it's not a lefthand thread is it?. Shouldn't be but stranger things do happen.

IT was a left handed screw, I'd applied a bit of pressure in that direction just to loosen but the real muscle was to the right. I decided to give it a go...to the left... and out she comes. What a bloody idiot.

Reminds me of the time I was belting my gas bottle fitting with a wrench and hammer...........................

Having said all that I'm rather chuffed to havea fully functional LEFT HANDED #5

Lefty
Sounds like poetic justice to me.
Glad you've got a functioning lefty now. Don't ask supercheap about the angle grinder they replaced because the button that holds the shaft while you undo the blade holding thingy broke. I nearly broke the new one until it dawned on me that I was turning it the wrong way. Oops, dickhead.
What I'm getting at is you're not the only one.

Adam, does your pope #5 have the original iron?, the reason I ask is mine does, and it won't hold an edge keeps folding over (rolling)resharpen from scratch and it does it again. I'm just wondering if mines a dud/heat damaged or they were all that way inclined, as most of the popes I've seen have stanley irons in them.

I think the iron is the original and it seems to be fine. Even though the castings are the same they'd have used homegrown raw materials which may be of a different quality to the usa/UK versions.

It's not "rolling over" percebtibly, although it doesn't hold an edge half as well as the 120yr old 1/4 inch thick blade from a wooden coffin smoother I have.

Maybe you could increase the bevel angle to make it a bit stronger? Chances are you've either got a dud in a good batch or I've got a peach in a bad batch!