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Thread: Siezed bolt
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16th August 2004, 01:24 PM #1
Siezed bolt
Question number 2(two) for the morning.
I cant get a the frog adjuster screw to budge on an old #5 I bought.
I've soaked the area in Hydrochloric Acid, WD40 and given it one hell of a twist but not so much as a smidgen of movement.
Luckily the screw is in a decent mid range position so I can still use it, but Id like to be able to close the mouth right up fro endgrain on the shooting board.
Help! I've read around a bit about oxy torches and stuff but dont exactly have one of those lying around.Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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16th August 2004 01:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th August 2004, 02:56 PM #2
Lefty,
you might not want to heat the base of the plane up, you will probably warp it beyond repair. Try giving the back of the screwdriver a couple of light taps with a hammer while turning. Be patient, it might take a while. Keep soaking it in WD-40. It will penetrate eventually.
DanIs there anything easier done than said?- Stacky. The bottom pub, Cobram.
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16th August 2004, 05:04 PM #3
If it jams force it, if it breaks it needed replacing anyhow.
Or you could try Inox, and be patient, it won't happen overnight, but it will happen.Boring signature time again!
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16th August 2004, 05:21 PM #4Intermediate Member
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seized bolt
get a bag of ice cubes and an elect. Soldering iron
Turn the soldering iron on high and rest the element on the bolt for a good long time then hit it with ice and then put some wd 40 or similar on it if this wont move it some one welded it when you were no looking
Frank
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16th August 2004, 06:15 PM #5
Thanks guys,
If it breaks, the plane is stuffed, becaause that screw with has a funny collar which holds the frog and, I imagine, keeps down vibration.
There's a fair bit of advice on the net that says if all else fails jsu grind the head off, and drill and retap. unfortunately, thats OK for a 1974 Cortina manifold but not a handplane.
I'll try the ice and soldering iron thing and report back on my inevitable failure.
It's all al learning process though, next time I'll take a bloody screw driver with me to the markets, and dismantle the bloody thing before handign over my fahzoohs.Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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16th August 2004, 07:17 PM #6
I am assuming rust is the culprit, probably a bit of surface rust in the thread?
Do a search of this BB for "electrolysis". If you need more info PM me (or SilentC )
Remove all the non-ferrous bits and give the remainder a bit of a dip. The Japanned bit won't be effected, neither will the non-rusty bits.
It sounds impossible, or improbably at best, but that's how I free rusty stuff all the time now, with no effort!
Cheers,
P
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16th August 2004, 07:41 PM #7
How to loosen up.
Bundy and Coke.
Drink the Bundy
Soak the screw in Coke............ :eek:
or is this starting that Copper Penny in Coke thread?
Many on the Guzzi list use this method, works 'Mostly'
I'd try "Chemsearch" 'YIELD' first though
OR
CRC Penetr8, I've not used this but understand it is quite effective :confused:
Ivan on Oz
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16th August 2004, 07:45 PM #8Registered
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Being a MAN, with rough hands, I never have the " rusted bolt" syndrome.
AL, said in my roughest manliest voice.
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16th August 2004, 08:39 PM #9
Geez Al, with 60 grit hands, I'd be concerned ya haven't sanded ya bolt clean away by this time.
said in a concerned and cringing voiceBoring signature time again!
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16th August 2004, 08:59 PM #10Originally Posted by ozwinner
P
(for Pansy Hands)
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16th August 2004, 11:16 PM #11
What's a Gas B-B-Q got to do with it????
G'day.
My 2 bob, (& I'm not shaking hands with any of you blokes :eek: )
Step 1.
Dick Smith electronics have some good ozone stuffer called Zero Freeze.
It comes in an Aerosol can (ozone stuffer)
Step 2.
Do you own a gas B-B-Q?
If yes, take the gas bottle down to the nearest decent hardware shop &
buy a handheld tourch with a flexible hose & the correct fitting for your
gas botle. Then use that with a small tip directed so that the "overspray"
dosn't burnt/overheat anything important. If it's too tricky, bury the
bits you want to protect in wet rags.
Now you have relativley simple, cost effective ways of giving it hot &
cold treatment, go for it....
PS, use plenty of possum p!ss too (WD40, CRC)
You can even use it instead of the Zero Freeze BUT!!! Watch out !!!!
It WILL catch fire if you are not carefull. :eek:
Back at step 2, if the answer to "Do you own a gas B-B-Q?"
was NO(?) this can only mean one of 2 things..... :confused:
1. You own a wood fired B-B-Q, in which case, you are a good old
Neanderthal man, what are you doing with an old (NEW?) #5 plane,
chuck it away & go back to your stone axe.
2. You own an electric B-B-Q, in which case, you are a nerd,
what are you doing with an old #5 plane,
chuck it away & go back to your electric planer.
3. (yeah, can't count) You don't own a B-B-Q, in which case, you are a pouf.
what are you doing with an old #5 plane,
chuck it away & go & paint your nails.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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17th August 2004, 10:15 AM #12
Yohoooo!!
Originally Posted by Cliffy Wiffy
If we had the big tough hands of some, we could just take a glowing ember and hold it against the screw I s'pose!
P
(who bought a #5 in good nick, for $35 at a market in Port Macquarie last Sunday) I understand it is a monthly affair so if you live in that neck of the woods it is probably worth a trip...a couple of stalls had the usual rag-tag bunch of tools in a range of condition, and quite a lot of useful stuff.
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17th August 2004, 11:06 AM #13
A Story.
I'll never own a Weber, my only experience with those things was a traumatic one. A few years back Dad brought home this shiny new Weber which was goign to revolutionise our BBQ's. After the first few legs'o'lamb were undercooked Dad was getting a bit peeved. So at the big Easter Family gathering Mum demanded that he stop opening the blodoy thing and just let it cook. So he lit the beads and put the roast in. Despite his poretestations that the Weber was not very hot to touch, Mum insisted that it was a slow cooker and that he was NOT to open it. 4 Hours later, with the whole extended family watching, the Weber was finally opened to reveal a beautiful leg of lamb - still raw and stinking of accelerant gel.
In an instant the Weber was hurled over the backyard and behind the shed where it promptly started a grass fire and nearly burnt down the woodshed.
So no Webers for me. I've got a Gas BBQ and, to prove my officeworkermanliness, I'm goign to build a brick BBQ to to hold the thing.
Not sure what all this has got to do with a #5 bolt but I'm not, I repeat, not goign to bloody put a blow torch to the thing. It's not an isolated bolt and I'm sure it'll warp the sole. The electrolysis sounds OK, I always thought it was for removing surface rust and never considered it for rusted bolts.
Rust is the culprit here. The acid scoured clean the exposed part of the bolt so the WD40 I've left for a few days may soak in.
Thanks for the help.Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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17th August 2004, 11:30 AM #14
The Weber story is almost the same as our introduction:
You either swear BY them or swear AT them, no in-between.
We chose Christmas Dinner for 24 people for our learning curve. 24 Vegetarian main courses served at 3.30pm!!!
Things got better after that!
Give the electrolysis a go on an old rusted bolt to convince yourself, it won't warp anything!!
cheers,
P
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17th August 2004, 01:49 PM #15
OK I've had a read through the posts here and other sources on electrolysis.
All seems hunkydory except for the power source. The term "battery charger" means a car battery? or a Car battery charger? Whats that?
SWMBO is going to have a fit when I pull the battery out of the camry. She freaked when I whipped out the hydrochloric acid. Maybe it'll bring on labour a bit early.
Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia